rodell

You will almost certainly have to cut the spring. You might as well just do it and get over it. Everything else you will do will be around trying to get around it. You can also add a shellplate bearing to smooth it out. I did it and it was a great improvement, along with the spring. With all that powder around you need to keep the plate clean. Powder and lube can turn into concrete after a while. I keep compressed air handy just in case I have a spillage for some reason.

The Redding T-7 is a heck of a press. I use a Redding turret press for my low volume rounds and my 650 or SDB for higher volume (primarily handgun).

Make sure you aren't short stroking when seating a primer, and that your bench is solid. You can see the punch travel through the shell plate. There should be plenty of travel. If you have an older press, the punch can become fouled with grit and not do its thing. Soak it in solvent and then clean it out with compressed air if that's the case.

Approximately, you want the handle to be even with your shoulder in the "up" position, with your mount type in place. I would have thought your 36" would have been about right. Without a strong mount, it would be way too short, though.

Does the powder measure operate when you have a case in that station? You should see a full travel of the powder bar. If not, you may have to lower the powder die. Another test: take the powder measure off, and, operate the slide manually (over your powder container). It should drop accordingly. What did you find?

Has anything else changed? Brass or shellplate? Take a look at the primer punch with no casing in place. Are you getting full travel? You may have some crud build up preventing the full stroke. That's where I would look first. Has the shellplate worn to the point the casing is loose (vertically)? It is it loose? That's all that comes to mind ...

Taper for typical semi auto rounds, roll for typical revolver rounds. I load plated revolver rounds without a cannelure and I back off the crimp so it is very light. Still plenty strong for preventing bullet jump and ensuring good ignition. If I disassemble a round, there's only a very light mark on the bullet - not enough to pierce the or significantly deform the plating.

I swap out my depriming pins for Lee. They are smaller, but clamp fine. Never a problem with pullback.

I'm assuming you've cleaned everything under the plate and lubricated accordingly? Check the detent spring - make sure it hasn't become weak. The plate should index pretty closely and the spring/ball makes certain of the alignment. Make sure there's nothing in the detent itself on the shellplate, too. That's the only thing that comes immediately to mind.

Or add a nice plastic knob with the marking. I have the plastics, the metal ones, and, the micrometer. All are easier than "the bolt"!

Even though this is an old thread, I'll comment... I exchanged my Dillon pin for a Lyman pin. It is smaller in diameter, clamps just fine, and no problem at all. They seem to wear normally and they are cheap. No warranty, though!

You are lucky you didn't pop one. I'm sure you'll have a new one on the way as soon as you call/email. Sounds like a problem created when the run of "L" was changed to "S" and there was one in process.

I'm also in WA and it was 4 earlier this year.

Take out your primer punch and soak it in solvent. Blow it dry with air. It may not be returning to its "home" position properly.

My reasoning for keep a SDB handy as a low volume caliber change with my 650 rather than a 550 is they are both auto indexing. At least I don't have to run the risk of switching back and forth and forgetting to index the plate.

Elite Ammunition lists the plate for the 550. http://www.eliteammunition.net/catalog/item/7414998/7751513.htm $75. This is from the Dillon Precision Forum "dillon Posted by: dillon Posted on: 2010-06-10 at 12:11:35 PM Dillon does not offer a conversion kit for this cartridge. The small case head diameter causes priming problems, plus the blowback design of the firearms chambered for this cartridge cause the shoulder to blow out .090-.100", causing additional reloading problems unique to this cartridge. The "A" funnel will work, but we will not offer a shellplate for it. " I haven't seen anything for the 650 in my search.

I've been looking around for that, too. As far as I know, there's nothing for the 650. There is an aftermarket shellplate for the 550. Dillon's answer was the round was too small for their presses. I could live with inserting a case at a time if I could solve the shellplate and expander.

I have the 650 for my volume rounds, and, keep the SDB as a "caliber change" for my lower volume rounds. I specifically didn't move the SDB up to a 550 so I wouldn't have one fully indexed and one not. The 650 is a slick machine. Loading isn't a chore at all.

The SDB dies are two piece affairs and are designed specifically for the SDB. It is an unconventional design that lends itself to a very compact (and sometimes a little challenging to work on) toolhead.

For what it is worth, I use only CCI's and they work fine for me. I did have to make some adjustments, and, I do have the rheostat (added as an upgrade).

That's definitely WAY too many. There isn't one adjustment, there could be more than one. First thing to do is to take off the cover and watch the primers. See if each of the stations are doing what they are supposed to do. Watch it for a few minutes and it will probably be clear where your problem is. Without watching it, it is hard to tell you what to do. Do you have the adjustable model that varies the frequency of the vibration? Does it happen with all brands of primers? The first wing should tip off the outer ring anything that isn't flat on one side or another. The second notch should "flip out" any that are upside down. The third, which is where the primers line up for the drop should make the final cut. Watch the line of primers - are they getting to the drop without any flipped? Follow this line of logic and you'll figure it out.

No reason why not. I can't speak to your choice of dies.

Were the link arms bushings changed to brass at the same time? Or was that later? Is it possible to substitute brass for the delrin bushings or are the studs a different size?

Heard at the XL650 primer system design review. "Ok, maybe someone forgets to put in a case and idly cycles the press." "Why would they do that? Don't they have something else to do with their time?" "It says not to do that in the manual, that's all we need to do. RTFM. If they can't read, tough ****." "What if they run out of cases in the feeder?" "Can't happen, users know better." "So what if they drop a primer or two? There's a bunch of used ones hitting the floor, anyway." "You know we can't charge more for this thing unless the primer delivery looks different from the SDB and the 550." "We could paint it red? Or green?" "You're fired." "Easy fix, let's just hang a little chute on there. Then when the primers slide down people can watch them build up or dump them on the floor". "Blue plastic?" "We're out of duct tape." "Ok. Done." "Doesn't matter because it can never happen anyway." "Lunch?"

There's also the matter of the detent which also uses the same holes. In addition, there would need to be a carrier to keep the primer in place on the trip around. I'm not sure it wouldn't be easier to try another geometry. I don't believe it was about cost, it was just the way the design worked out. I doubt they started with the primer chute! Besides, in a engineer's world, there wouldn't be any unprimed cases!