rodell

I have one, along with blue knobs, black knobs, micrometer adjusters, etc. I like that it has heft, I find I don't use the graduations that much. I need one that reminds me which way to turn it - that's about all that would be better than just a larger knob!

I bought a used one, and added the variable frequency upgrade. It works very well, and, I don't get any flipped primers. It does take some attention, though, as primers can get hung up on one of the sorting arms and not go through. That might be because I have it adjusted in a way to have as few flipped as possible, and not for throughput. It's not quiet, though. I also made the cheap versions with a tube and a flip tray. It works very well, too, but requires constant attention. While they are neat to watch and use, they aren't really any faster than doing them by hand. If I had to do it over, I would again do the Dillon.

I use the Redding dies. I have never been let down by them in any caliber.

When I originally posted, I was thinking of upgrades we'd pay for, or, new products that could boost Dillon's revenue. Looks like there's ideas for both. I would pay $200 for a 650 upgrade that modifies the primer system and makes the belling easier to adjust. I'd also be willing to try some new ideas in reloading technology ...

How about a horizontal, in-line instead of a circular press? Easy to see what's going on and easy to manipulate/adjust.

We've thoroughly praised the Blue, and, I'm certainly one of those. I'm very pleased with my two presses and enjoy them and the ammo they produce. Still, we haven't seen a lot "new" and we should "help" with our list for Mike and the engineers! My list: - New priming systems - Bullet feeder - New round counter What say you?

I keep my SDB as a caliber quick change for my lesser used calibers. I don't keep it permanently mounted but I can get it on the bench top and clamped in and running in < two minutes. All I lose is a little storage space and another box of spare parts. Works out fine for me.

I have a couple of the UniqueTeks, one on a regular bar and one on an Arredondo. They work just great. You could also just pick up another bar - they are easy to move without affecting the adjustment.

I also have one of the premade "upgrades". Yes, you can do it with a case, but I just didn't have the time. I consider it indispensable now.

Check the adjustment of the camming rod to make certain you're getting full travel. Also make sure the slide is not dirty or dry of lubricant.

I had the same problem after I did the modification. I suggest you put a slight "bow" in the ejector wire. Just hold it between your hands and bend it with your thumbs. Also make sure there are no burrs on the shell plate openings. The idea is to get a smooth push with no restriction.

What powder are you using? Are you filling the hopper? Spread some powder out on a white piece of paper - is it consistent? Is your press solidly mounted? You've done the right thing on the rotary disk. You need to get new parts and start fresh. You'll want to remove any burrs on the new disk and make sure the casting hasn't been gouged. If it has, get that, too. From the sounds of it, Dillon may just send you a new primer mechanism and then you can do your magic. For the slide, where does it stop? Mid travel? Make sure the ramp is the right one and it doesn't have something in it, isn't gouged, or bent. Is this new or range brass? I know I'll lose a couple of 9mm or 380 cases that way if they are slightly damaged. I've learned when operating the press to watch that a case ends up in station 1, but the rate of failure is pretty low. There's a lot going on with a progressive. You are well on your way to being an expert!

XL650 Case feeder: Yes Experience: 35+ years reloading, one year with Dillon Average Rounds/Hour, Pistol: 650-750 Average Rounds/Hour, Rifle: N/A, all rifle is loaded on a Redding Turret or Ultramag Square Deal B Experience: As above Average Rounds/Hour, Pistol: 250-300 Average Rounds/Hour, Rifle: N/A XL650: 380, .38, .357, and .45ACP SDB: .44 mag, .44 Special, 9mm

I've used both with great results. I think the Dillon decapper can draw primers back in - I change the pins to a Lyman pin that is smaller and have never had a problem with that configuration. Many recommend breaking the sharp corners on the Dillon pin, but, that never provided me the same level of performance as the Lyman pin. The Redding seater is great, resetability is what I like about it the most.

If the thicker brass goes into the shellplate by hand without forcing ii, then it isn't your problem. Check every station, just to be sure. Make sure you don't have any foulling on the seating slide and that it is lubed. You can't run it dry. I'm assuming you've adjusted the camming pin to set the distance for seating? That's the most likely cause, followed by lube/fouling.

The intent is to reduce and control the friction between the shellplate bolt and the shellplate. Some use a thrust bearing and washer assembly. I suppose a polyethylene washer would provide some help, but nowhere as near as much as one of the bearings.

Eh, well, I probably shouldn't have wasted the electrons posting. I just had to vent. I love my presses, and, they generally work just fine. The gremlins were rampant and elusive. Dillon is sending me a new primer assembly. As always, outstanding service. I hope they remember to send me the alignment tool so I can do it right - the trial and error method is pretty time consuming! I use my SDB as a quick caliber change for small quantities and backup. I've not needed it, and, that's been the key (I think!) to generally good success with my 650.

I regularly use Hodgdon Clays and Universal Clays in my 650. No problem with consistency or powder leakage.

I got some more a few months ago and they were metal.

You will only need to adjust the crimp if your bullet configuration changes. The adjustments will probably be small. If your bullets have a cannelure, you'll need to adjust your seating depth so the crimp is in the right place. If you have no cannelure, it will probably be just a light crimp anyway and an adjustment isn't likely needed.

Some days, it just doesn't pay ... I needed to load about 500 rounds of 380 ACP - I had the conversion kit but hadn't yet used it so ... An easy swap, as usual. Took me about ten minutes. I used my new Arredondo bar with micrometer (nice). Dump in the brass, set the measure, ready to rock. Hmm, the damn case feeder jams all the time. I loaded about 25 rounds before I realized - duh! Small casefeeder plate - forgot that. Empty the feeder, reload, makes a difference (although it is still possible to get a heck of a jam that throws cases all over the place!). Then, something doesn't feel right. The primer system locks up. Futz, futz some more. Take it apart. A piece of primer got sucked into the wheel and marred the casting - even the detent ball won't come out. Polish it all out, lube up, put it together, barely runs. Doesn't advance the primer right, makes a mess all the time. Take it apart, put it together, take it apart, repeat. Ugh. Somewhere in the midst of testing, I realize the primers that I do get don't feel right when I'm seating them. Hmm. Careful inspection shows the shellplate isn't aligned with the punch. I tried a new detent spring, took out my bearings/washers, still no good. So, then I think - alignment. But, it is Sunday, and I have no alignment tool. So, through trial and error I finally get it to center up properly. There's another hour. Fine. Time to clean up and put everything away. Not to be deterred, it bugs me for a couple of hours. Back to the press, convert my large primer assembly to small, and, damn if it doesn't work just fine. Other than the occasional flying case from the case feeder, I get my loads done. Just to add insult to injury, the RF-100 jammed a couple of times and primers got stuck in the tube. (Same thing happened to the priming system once, too.) I've already emailed Dillon for the tool and the primer system parts, but, some days it just doesn't pay! I figure if I did them on my turret press I would have had about the same throughput, so, I guess I'm not that bad off! Of course, the only caliber I don't have for my backup SDB is .380, too. I've looked at the defective primer assembly and I just don't see why it doesn't work right. It has only loaded about 1,200 rounds or so. So, perseverance is the key!

Take the shellplate off. One possibility is the shellplate bolt set screw wasn't tight and the shellplate bolt tightened up as you used it.

What other color would they be to load for black rifles????

It works as advertised and is simple to install. It does reduce variance in OAL. One tip: don't fully tighten the clamp bolts until you have the shellplate in its uppermost position and full. I have it on all of my Dillon toolheads and have some of the Whidden Gunworks pre-tapped heads, too.

You should just put a little "bow" in the wire. It is a common change that's needed when you put on the bearing and washer. I just held mine in each hand and bowed it with my thumbs - just a little.