rodell

I checked this morning and readjusted the cam rod. I do believe it was incorrect by just a little, and, I missed the step in the manual to put a case in stations one AND two. I'll load some more tonight and check it out. Thank you. I do have a question, though. Everyone is told to round off the decap pin - why aren't they made that way? Thanks again for your advice.

I watched it after I had already set up the press according to the manual. It was interesting, but not necessary.

I do now believe I will be shooting more - I went to the range last night and burned more ammo than I have in a LONG time - because I knew I could replace it. So, I received my new XL a couple of weeks ago. I have it set up on a portable bench by Shop Fox. I'm waiting on some metal work for a post I can bolt to the floor. Still, it is sturdy. I've clipped the detent spring and added the thrust bearing. I've threaded the toolheads for the UniqueTek clamp kit, easy to do and seems to hold everything just so. I've added the UniqueTek micrometer to the powder measure. I'm set up for .38 and .357 with Dillon dies and the Hornady powder cop. Most of the loads are JHP's or Berry's. Powder is HP-38 or Hodgdon Clays. My observations so far: (1) This press is easy to set up. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, but, it isn't that big of a deal at all. I had expected much worse based on my readings on the internet. I've now taken it completely apart and learned it inside and out and I like it. (2) It is possible to get a case out of the case feeder upside down. Oops. (3) Charge weights seem very consistent using the small bar at the levels I'm using. I was also worried about that, too, but it seems to be a non-issue. (4) I love the Hornady Powder Cop. Inexpensive, simple to set up, and, right in front of your face. White ring at the top of the recess or no go. (5) On my plated bullets, I'm using a very, very light roll crimp. I know the dies are supposed to taper before they roll, but, I couldn't really measure it. Not tight enough. I had quite a bit of inconsistency at the range until I strengthened the crimp. I may try my Redding taper crimp die (it is chamfered for progressive press use). (6) Two problems that kept cropping up I haven't really solved. The first is the case does not consistently slide far enough into Station 1. I'll be unable to operate the ram and I just reach through and seat the case. The adjustment of the cam rod is correct, but, it just doesn't happen. Maybe some polishing? The second problem is inconsistent priming. No primer, or, failure to decap, and a few primers askew. Not consistently, though. I'm checking to make sure I don't short stroke and that I seat properly. I suppose I should check the end of the decap pin. There isn't much feel to these small primers in the .38 cases. I'm very lucky Clays is so large - it doesn't end up everywhere when there's no primer. I got very good when I saw primers in the chute to expect a case with a primer problem and get it out before seating. I took out the priming system and everything looks ok. I have a spare, I may try it just for the heck of it. (7) Caliber changes are easier than I thought they would be. Fairly easy and straightforward. The number of steps in the manual make it seem worse than it actually is. (8) Bonehead move: Filled the primer magazine with primers, neglected the sensing rod. Humming along until I noticed the lack of a primer in an ejected round. I got the opportunity to take apart 25 rounds as my reward for that. Overall, I'm pleased with my purchase. I can crank out quality ammunition faster than on my Redding turret and the only thing I appear to be giving up is a variation in OAL, and I'll work on that with the Dillon. I was concerned I might have bought "too much" press, but, it is quite manageable.

Jmorris, Do you have the delrin link arm bushings, or, have you gone to brass? Bob

Does anyone know what the differences are between the Square Deal and the Square Deal B, and when the "B" was introduced? I picked up a little SD to keep my 650 company. I had bid on it on one of these 19 day auctions and completely forgot about. I was surprised to "win" it. I'm going to set it up in my "oddest" pistol caliber as a relatively expensive caliber conversion. Probably .41 mag. Other than being dirty inside and out, I did ok. I completely disassembled, cleaned, and lubed and it runs like a little champ. Nothing like the 650, though, I really appreciate the difference. Bob

Fixing that comes down to whether or not you want to spend the money on another Toolhead & Powder Die and another set of Dies so you can have Toolheads set up for 38 and 357. Another thing you can to speed up the die change adjustments - Accurately mark each die body's threads, and make a corresponding mark on the Toolhead itself, with different color Sharpie markers for 38 and 357. That will get you back and forth pretty quickly. be Fortunately, you sold me one more quick change than I *had* to have, 'cause I was thinking about this! <grin> I'm going to try a set of the Hornady locking rings and Redding spacers, as long as the two don't fight with one another. If that doesn't work out, I'm going to go the route you suggest with an additional toolhead and dies. I hope the store is open!

I received one last week. There was no need to clean all of the parts prior to assembly/use. I second the DVD recommendation. I watched mine after I set mine up and loaded 100 rounds. It would have saved me a few minutes and I learned a couple of tips.

Brian told me I would hate it if I didn't get the casefeeder for my 650 - he's right about that and will get a follow-up order. The youngster can't keep up putting cases in the tube. In addition to setting up the new 650, I clamped the toolhead, added the bearings to the shellplate, and clipped a spring on the ball detent. All of the internet reading wasn't for nought. It runs smooth. I will put UniqueTek's micrometer on the powder bar sometime this week. The only thing I'm a little disappointed about is the ability to *easily* and *quickly* switch between .38 and .357. No matter how I try, I can't hold the dies steady to take them out and put in a spacer, as I had imagined. There's also the matter of the belling adjustment. Not a huge problem that another $150 can't fix! I do think I will try some "locking" locking rings, just for grins. Overall, I think I made the right choice, even if I'm less than 10,000 rounds per year. Do I get a discount because I *didn't* (yet) make Brian's head hurt?

No, just an extreme example of a loader that would be less waist full of resources for the extremely small amount of reloading you intend to do. A single stage or turret would be more than adequate for your needs and much cheaper, not to mention you wouldn’t have the caliber conversion expenses if you wanted to branch out to other calibers. As someone who has reloaded literally thousands and thousands of rounds on a turret, I can tell you the turret will do it, but, it takes a lot more time than I can invest at this point in my life if I ever want to have time to shoot. Of course, it takes longer if my youngster helps! I went against Brian's advice, sort of, and bought the 650 first. My annual volume is probably 2-3000 at this point. I've been loading a couple of hundred 357 and 44 pistol rounds each week. I bought the 650 because time is limited and I never wanted to have to replace it if my needs increased. It arrived last night, and, 90 minutes later was cranking out rounds (Thanks, Brian.) It was worth the money just to watch them pop out at the speed they did (and I was in no hurry). My Redding turret that has served me since 1972 was decidedly unhappy.

Something I found out today. All of Redding's current "taper only" dies are chamfered for use in progressives. The 38/357 I looked at was quite old and perfectly straight. All of the newer ones (purchased this year) have the enlarged opening.

I'd say give the Dillon crimp die a try. Thanks Wide. I should have read further. How did it work out for you? I just ordered a new 650 setup and have the same concern. I load Berry's plated for practice and a taper crimp is used. (I use the same bullet/method for 38, 357 and 44 special.) I've used Redding taper dies with great success, but ordered the Dillon due to the chamfered opening.

You don't have some residual lube or carbon or whatever in the mouth of your brass, by chance? The funnel is the right size?

I just ordered a 650 as my first progressive press for metallic cartridges. I've used progressives for shotshells for a very long time (30 years), and loaded on Redding turrets for longer than that. I bought the 650 because I never want to (have to) buy another one. I don't "need" it, any more than the last gun I bought! From a volume perspective I'm not there. I ordered the machine, two deluxe caliber conversions, three sets of dies, roller handle, strong mount, and the complete quick change primer system. (I already have scales, calipers, gauges, blah, blah. Brian talked me out of the primer check station for now. The only thing I didn't get was the casefeeder. My 3 year old thinks helping reloading is great fun and I didn't want to leave nothing for him to do! I plan to load 38/357, 44 special/mag, 9mm, 380, and .223. All of my high power rifle loads (.223 excepted) will still be done on the Redding equipment that I know so well. Bob

I can't speak to Lyman service, but, I'm not displeased with their tumblers. I have an autoflow that I've run for two years and it is quite strong. I regularly run it overnight with treated walnut. If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't buy the autoflow option - too much of a pain in the butt. I put a Berry's bowl with the clear cover on it - I like the clear cover a lot and the Berry's bowl doesn't get dirty. The Lyman is vigorous and shows no signs of slowing down. Bob

I can do 100-125 .38/.357's per HOUR with my Redding Model 25 turret press with separate seat and crimp. That assumes I start with the dies and measure set up, and, the cases fresh from the tumbler. I have to charge in a loading block, though, since the Redding Model 25 is the older one that is angled. That design doesn't work very well with the Redding measure on the turret. So, I decap/prime/size (with the semi-auto feeder) and then bell the case. In reality, I will do all of them and load them into blocks, charge all the blocks (with load sampling), and then proceed with seating and crimp. I work steadily, but not rapidly. It points out the benefit of a progressive of some type. I'll keep the Redding for my rifle stuff, which is all low quantity. My handgun speed needs a boost. I wonder who could help me with that ???? Bob