Agent #1911

Measure the wire thickness with a caliper. If you dont have a caliper, measure by feel. Install the spring and see if you can tell the weight difference from racking the slide.

here is an idea..... limit CO to 10 rounds like what it should have been instead of turning it into a poor man's open division.

thats awesome! thanks for sharing. why do you still have that front sight!

Did you try sliding a round up and down the extractor to see if its smooth?

If you can still feel it with a 14lb spring, it’s probably not a magazine issue. I’d check the breech face again and the extractor.

I used to have FTF and kachunks with 8 lb wolff recoil spring but works fine with 10 lb and up. I noticed there was a “step” on the left side of the breech face from machining where the rim of a case could hang up when pushed up so I leveled it out. I also clipped the magazine springs to reduce the tension at the feed lips for easier feeding. The factory magazine springs are super strong and probably spec’d for the heavy recoil spring. that tension is not needed with light recoil springs. Lastly, I tapered the magazine lips opening so the front is wider than the rear so the rounds slips out easily with minimal push from the slide. All this modifications fixed my kachunk and FTF issues. Feeds much smoother now. I also would like to note that the lighter the recoil spring, the more important you need to have a solid grip. If you let it flip, the slide will have less force to cycle. Check the rails for burs. Hope this helps.

at what point is the recoil spring too light? I read from others to use the lightest recoil spring that will cycle to gun reliably. then others say to use the highest spring rate without causing your muzzle to dip. which is correct? lets say hypothetically a 2lb spring will cycle your gun reliably. at what point is the recoil spring too light? where do you draw the line? how can you determine if a certain spring rate is perfect?

what I noticed with these guns is the extractor track gets really gunk'd up really fast and hinders the movement of the extractor if neglected. I am using factory extractor spring without any ejection issues. I do use a small drop of thin oil on top, bottom and close to the extractor pin. this loosens up the gunk and kind of "self cleans". I do this every after shooting session and no ejection issues so far. this is the thin oil that I use. dont go crazy and put too much, it can end up in the firing pin channel.

its called "Karma". good thing we don't have people like that at our club. we try to help each other out. I would rather beat someone on their best stage plan and execution rather than poor plan and execution. that is just low class tactics.

Unfortunately, I have not seen any other Stock 2 at our club for years. I went ahead and ordered some palm swells and will try it out.

I'm currently using a set of Lok thin grips and would like to try a different set to see if really provides more weak hand grip. I have medium hands and the Lok Thins works great for reaching the trigger and mag release. will switching to the Scale or Lok Palm Swell affect the reach? If you had both grips, which one do you prefer and why?

edited OP for contents. enjoy

ok I will have the "how to" posted by tonight. This mod made a big difference for me. Dazhi, I have not tried the Extreme trigger but I dont see why this mod will not work for it. I shot a match with you last year at Collins County while I was traveling through Dallas. Outstanding club with tremendous participation.

Situation: medium hands. injured trigger finger (1/2" shorter than left). Solution: reduce trigger reach Option: install a set screw to reduce pre-travel items needed for this project: M3-0.5 x 6mm Socket Set Screw M3, 0.5 thread Spiral Point Tap 2.5mm Drill Bit IC-2000 CA Glue or Permanent Loctite center punch (to mark the location and get the bit started) A small file Steps: 1. Disassemble the frame and remove the trigger from the trigger bar using appropriate size punch. 2. Refer to the pictures for the location of the Set Screw. Drill and Tap from the interior of the trigger towards the left sight (trigger return spring leg rides on the right sight). *note* the surface of the trigger is very hard and not easy to drill. use a center punch to get the bit started. I used a smaller bit the get started and eventually ended up with the 2.5mm bit. *note #2* you only have one shot at this, you mess this up and you will be ordering a new trigger. so measure many times and drill once. 3. Test fit the set screw. start from the inside of the trigger. screw the set screw until it is fairly flush with the inside if the trigger to prevent interference with the trigger bar when it pivots. *see pic*. 4. Time to set the screw in place. I use IC-2000 here as I already have it for applying grip tapes on my guns. you may also use permanent loctite which requires lengthy cure time (drop in small zip loc and squeeze out air to speed up curing). apply IC-2000 to the threads then screw in place.wipe off excess. set aside to cure (approx 15 min). 5. Using an appropriate size hex wrench, test to see if the screw has set in place. you should not be able to turn the wrench with minor pressure. 6. Filing time! the idea here is to file the set screw until the trigger have just enough clearance to reset WHEN THE SLIDE IS INSTALLED. on a perfectly filed set screw, THE TRIGGER WILL NOT RESET WHEN THE SLIDE IS OFF THE FRAME. when the slide is installed, it moves the hammer back slightly which creates more clearance for trigger reset. If the trigger resets when the slide is off, you filled too much material. it will still work but the reduction of trigger reach is not as substantial. it is a good idea to pickup several set screws. there is going to be a lot of assembly/disassembly in this step so be patient and remove a little bit at a time. the extra set screws can also be used to replace the factory short overtravel stop should you want to reduce the overtravel after the sear is released. same idea, file to fit. as you can see from this video. there is no trigger slack after the reset

make arrangements with their match director. IDPA is a good place to recruit new USPSA shooters. it is well known in the interwebs that IDPA is a beginners game.

1. offer incentives to those who brings new shooters. 2. join local gun forums and advertise. www.gulfcoastgunforum.com 3. troll local IDPA clubs. tell them about your matches during stage brief. free match for first timers. 4. since you run 2 matches per month, make one a Saturday and one on a Sunday. a lot of shooters are also church goers. 5. talk to local gun stores and offer a free day at the range pass for gun purchases. 6. last but not least. post match scores promptly after the match. in this day and age, we have hotspots. no reason it takes a day to post the scores. this shows how much the MD cares about the match. just some ideas. I hope it helps. good luck

Drop the rounds in your barrel and find out. I never had clearance problems with factory 115 and 124 gr FMJ with stock barrel. Most of the load issues are from reloads with different shape bullets and .356” + diameter.

Have you tried the regular power extractor spring?

Same

yep I have heard of it happening.

wow that is a heavy crimp. brass is almost flush with the bullet.

Sounds like the truncated cone profile is the way to go for factory spec barrels. Any decrease in velocity after a throating job?

Did the lead build up affect accuracy at all? Thanks.

I would like to try Blue Bullets in my unmolested factory barrel. them being .355" diameter bullets, I don't see any issue with OAL but I would like to confirm from those who has been using BB w/ factory throat barrel. definitely sticking with 125 gr. either truncated or RN. what is your preference and why?

were you using the coated bullets or plain cast?