Forrest Halley

Yeah if only I had the time to make the drive I'd do it. Gotta support the Revo bretheren.

Hey James, I ran across this with my Rcbs Pardner single stage where I did not notice that the rims were visibly bent but you could definitely see shellholder marks on the case rim. Maybe switch to a hornady or lee hand primer? Or ease off on the seating stroke a little??? Regards, Forrest

I am going to get one at some point since I have a 126 mm mag that I can put it on. Will let you know when I get to messing with it.

I shot a couple low light stages at Saturday's Nor'easter match at Harvard, using the factory red ramp front sight and a flashlight. I didn't have any problem at all finding the sights. I have to agree with you Tom. The tritium sight does help in the indoor matches. Not just for no light/low light, but how about that starting position that is in between the definitely lit yard lines. I Find FO's worthless when back lit and half lit. Green might as well be invisible. The white outline is good for when there is light, the glass is shiny when back lit and an evil glowing green in no light. I run the XS standard dot. Some say round topped sights lack precision. I like them as I grew up shooting shotguns and the bead is easy to find.

So I am playing with the STI 170mm body ever so slightly tuned. With a Bolen 7mm pad, spring and follower I am getting 27. The ammo does show some interesting swirling indentations which do not seem to affect reliability or feeding. I had to bevel and polish the bottom edge of the body and the bottom of the creases in the sides. They were causing round 27 to slip beneath the follower. It's all working fine now. It's too long to be legal but I have yet to do any serious top end tuning. I am think a 4mm will be sufficient to make the gauge and as I am running a Para the Mag can afford to get a little fatter.

Like this? http://video.google....07538736181406# (just an example) Yeah... so you're awesome and that's not a revo. Sweet run though ! I was doing that the other day too and then I woke up....

There is a thread on this somewhere. The jist of it was that yeah it'll work, but your bullet goes a little further in the jump to the rifling and if the shell ever strips before the extractor picks it up to chamber its going to keep on going the extra 2mm causing various malfunctions.

The post has to protrude through the top of the clips. Do anything useful no. Dowel will work as will spent cases. Also the front face of the moonclip/cartridges have to be covered/shrouded with only space for a thumb and forefinger. Finally they whole thing has to be retained by 3 or more cartridges. Some sort of kydex holster(comptac/bladetech) is desirable for the super speed, but the safariland custom fits are cheaper at 40 bucks or so and come with paddle and belt loop from midwayusa. I use these and theyre quick enough and easy to adjust. 5.11 seems to be the vest to have since they are thicker and swing clear easier. Thats about it unless you want to add no doze for the longer waiting to shooting ratio...

Assuming the popper was the opening shot on the cylinder, you would most likely only shoot another target or two rounds before having to engage the activated disappearing prop. To do otherwise is just poor planning/execution....not enough rounds on the activated target. Of course if it doesn't disappear a lot more can be accomplished. Exercise: 1 Watch youtube videos of whatever moving target you are trying to game. 2 Clock the activation time and exposure time. If you really feel the 105's would lay it down slower add a .5 sec. 3 Set a timer to a par of the combined times. 4 Try and reload the gun and get two shots off in the interim. You'll probably find out you're not able to do it. There is an argument for the fact that it's faster to reload after the 6th shot than try and do a buzzer to buzzer reload drill, but if you can do it this way you'll definitely be able to do it in a match. Looks good on paper but doesn't work in reality for most people.

Yes I think you are right about capacity, but why not a hybrid system of bolen internals and the grams 11mm base? Isn't that more volume inside the mag? Or is the Bolen 7mm bigger internally?

Does seem pretty cool compared to all the trinkets I have in the shooting bag to do the same thing. At 50 bucks I'd have to say my tools are more cost effective and wide ranging for all things that go bang and sometimes even click!

My practice regimen sometimes goes into the threes. I can handle it fairly well. I have mostly muscle soreness from holding up old heavy all day. Tendons aren't bugging me. I'm excited about the miniminor though because I can really play with the reset weight and drop out the strain on .38s so it's on for stitching some targets. Model 10 is outta time so new hand there, but between that and the 581 I will be having some fun at the few IDPA matches I go to. No locks no spurs no problems. If I can get them cut I'll run some super brass in the 581 for zombie six and maybe a little Major uspsa.

Perhaps...but they didn't for TJ all those years that he shot their guns and won the World with it in Open. Would love to see it myself. Live and learn? Hopefully they will see that people like steel framed guns too adnd that their desgin offers some advantage in capacity.. I hear the rumble of the 32 rounders already....HAHAHA Plus the design is easily adaptable to .40!

Perhaps if he goes OPEN they will start offering a 170 body.

As I hadn't built them yet I was just passing along educated conjecture. SWAG. I am willing to modify the bolens to get them to work as they are flat as can be. I like the BENOS bend on the coil to get the nose to stay up. I don't think that the bolen are made for the paras so you're stuck mod'ing. I was have problems getting the 16th round in the tubes with the stock spring much less the 17th. I suppose the Dawson pad is the way to go with the bolens but anything the follower will pass will have to be bevelled well as I found them to be tippy in the STI mags meaning they'd let a round slide under with any resistance. What mods are you making to them? I assume a little bevelling to get the last round to sit higher/high enough? I have stock followers now and think they are cheating me atleast a round in cap. I was think of going to the bolens as it does so well in my bigstick. I've got some 140 sti tubes coming and plan to use them in those with the 11coil/follower and a 3 or 4mm base. What about SVI followers? Their Red is supposed to be something good. I know Arredondo makes para followers out of nylon and teflon. I like how the Bolen attaches spring to follower. The wings seem to eat up space...SVI and Bolen look to be migthty compact...

Thanks John. Glad I got all that done in case the infection spreads to Virginia. I'll be ready for those Zombies... ...Revo Style!

I'm getting 17 in P16 mags with the wolff springs and everything else stock. Would suggest the Bolen 11 coil spring with Bolen follower and the DP Para bases. This is a pretty solid setup which should go 20 easily. I haven't built mine up yet, but this is the way I intend to go.

First off with my research recently being in the OPEN forum I would say skip STIs and go to SVI's for the capacity. Bolen follower and spring and 4mm base. With the right tuning you should achieve 30 according to the consensus of others. I like SVI mags because they go in and out of my P16 like a dream with no magwell. I also changed the Mag release to a sti 2011 untapped. STI's are doable also you just have to grind the humps at the rear of the funneling body down to get it to drop free. I did this with a 170 40 mag recently and it runs well. Don't forget to bevel the insides of the mag body base and the bottom ends of the creases in the sides of the body so the follower or bullets dont hang up. Goodluck. Where are you getting SPS mags? I want a 170 40 or two. Sorry the site was down when last I tried it.

OK new dillon reloader here....is making a mark a bad thing? I'm blissfully ignorant at this point and sometimes I make the mark. As far as I am concerned it's the mark of reliable ammo in all revos. Educate me please!

So basically the competitor's load/gun doesn't have to make PF. The option exists to chrono out of a full length gun under the new addendum. What Bones says about compliant competitors all recieving the same chance to succeed is spot on. I ask how can a competitor be considered totally compliant if their gun/load combo does not make PF? The point of the load making PF in a gun not being used for the competition is moot. There should be no reshoot awarded for a competitor that takes this route. The steel must fall to score and since the presence of steel makes for unlimited shots setting it to fall with a center hit from a 105PF combination seems an honest and fair method.

Can you give specifics? I have a JM model that I am not having the best of luck with either. Haha I have a JM and a dash 2! The dash two required a bit of work to get running well, but I am pleased now with the outcome. The JM is a fickle little fella and has really brought my gunsmithing and reloading skills up a few notches. Bottom line with the dash two is this hand that is rivetted to the trigger has earned someone a warm seat in the afterlife. There is play in the trigger stroke that can be noted by a discerning finger. The inside of mine looked like someone fell asleep at the mill with all the tool marks left inside especially in the area where the rebound spring block travels back and forth. The cylinder rotation lugs were also a little rough on the machining. It also has tight chambers which affect the speed of my reloads. Headspace/barrel to cylinder gap was an issue as well. IT took about a 1000rounds to get it all smoothed out after the issues had been fixed. Fine now. JM was used when i got it and I lopped the hammer down to nothing. Faux-monized it and added a Cylinder and slide extended firing pin, a Wolff bossed mainspring, 11 lb return spring. Chamferred the heck out of the cylinder and star. WARNING BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THAT. The insides were rough so I stoned and polished them for about 12 hours all told..i went slowly at it. Broke 3 firing pins before I learned that the gun was out of time....my first competition revolver. Have since gone to the APEX competition pin and feel that Cylinder and Slide worked better for me. Not really certain as I changed the pins at the same time I moved away from gold medal match magnum primers to Federal large pistol. I dryfire a lot so I needed the durability of the apex. Check your timing on the JM and your cylinder stop. They may be very worn especially if it's a used gun as the parts are MIM I believe. If you are having accuracy issues the throat diameters may be out of spec. As usual please correct any details upon which I am mistaken.

It all depends on you. The seating is doable in the 550, but you have to remember to do a solid seating stroke each time and it will slow you down a bit. If you hand seat you have a more reliable end product due to the attention to detail given. I tend to run my strain screw to suit my reloading ability, not the other way around. I use small pistol, SP magnums, or match all depends what I am able to get. Seems to me the match may have a small edge on the others in sensitivity, but I am not at the level where I need that yet. Right now I am running small pistol magnums for the smaller charge in the higher volume case. Anybody see anything wrong here...please tell me and feel more than welcome to correct.

You've got to assume the gun that produces 105 is the one that is to be calibrated to. Otherwise we'll be forever in running to reset steel in light airs....just reward for trying to cater to everybody. It's a stretch to assume the shooter that brings the snubby is going to bring a 4.2 to chrono with. Is there any advantage gained by getting less out of the 105 PF load in the snubbie? No not really. The guys that are bringing a snubbie to an IDPA match have enough pride and confidence in their marksmanship that they don't want/need special accomodation. Just don't let anybody be cheated by making it too heavy or too light. Good news is sierra is making a .358 225 gr game king boattail for those really long poppers so the wind won't getcha out on the 35 yd line. The size of the box just changed figure out how to play inside it and accept the structure that the walls provide.

Yeah they do...hence no mention of it...after the last BUG match I've got little room to talk about clapping grasshopper loads. Forrest, did you use standard length brass or trim back like mine? If standard length at that charge, you would be light Totally straight .38 spec brass. I wasn't trying to play word games with CALIBER versus CHAMBERING that day. Yeah big problem with unburned powder. The load was a 125gr .356 hardcast with 2.5 grains of Clays. OAL unrecorded, but roughly the same length as a factory 130. Primer was a federal 100 small pistol primer in mixed .38 special brass. Should've gone small magnum pistol with a few more tenths most likely.

This is why I only load major 45's, but you could deliniate easily enough with short colt brass being for USPSA and 38 spec for IDPA....since they've got that add on wording.