KT57

I am looking to start handgun sports after playing in trap/sporting clays. I have guns that would fit into any division in uspsa including revolver, minus open. Is it standard to start in production to learn the game? I have Glocks for that but have an affinity to my 1911's which include Baer, Rock River Arms, Kimber, SA. I would really like to become proficient in handling the 1911, but wondered if production is the place to start. Any advice and examples of how you started and where you ended up or prefer to be would be appreciated. I also reload so that part is covered.

Well there is hope for my state, yet!

Are these divisions active in California?

Can you elaborate on the case volume issue? This is the kind of advice/info I am looking for. I am just taking baby steps toward this shooting sport after trying sporting clays for a few years. I have several 1911's to choose from but I have a Kimber Eclipse that eats everything from 135-220 grain Doubletap loads. I would obviously load down to 40 level, but wondered if fitting a 40 barrel would cause headaches. Aside from the obvious brass cost I was looking for other info that would discourage me from using 10mm.

My comment was based on the supposed difficulty getting the 40 to run in a 1911, where a 10mm length was ideal for the 1911. I do understand the brass issue, just looking for other reasons.

Beside the cost of brass, what are other disadvantages to running 10mm in a single stack 1911. One positive over the 40 would seem to be not having to worry about the OAL. I would like to hear all pros and cons vs. 40.

Can a 10mm conversion be done to a 686 6 shot? I am assuming it could but may be wrong. I see that it is possible on a Ruger GP 100.

Can you give specifics? I have a JM model that I am not having the best of luck with either.

Found a mint 5" 625-2. How much would you pay for one?

An update. Well I received the gun back from S&W. They replaced the cylinder again and made it reliable albeit with a heavier action than the original stock action. Oh well. I do have one problem though. It seems to shave lead bullets alot. Lead shavings left in one chamber is especially heavy. Would chamfering the forcing cone help? I have a friend with the tool. Or should I send it to a smith. And no it won't go back to the Performance Center.

Anyone else with the same opinion? I have been known to eat money to avoid frustration.

It wasn't a tuned gun. It was stock and they failed on a Master Revolver Action package.. Now they have to fix it.

Sorry to be a bummer for a first post but I am disappointed. I bought a 625JM some time ago and found that 3 charge holes were not fully reamed. I finally got around to sending it back a couple months back. They replaced the cylinder under warranty and I asked for a Master Revolver Action job while it was there. Got it back recently and fired it for the first time today. First thing I noticed was the lock up on the cylinder was not as tight as the original. I had many failures to fire. I wanted to blame it on the cheap gunshow reloads but all of these light primer strikes discharged in a 1911. When I got home I noticed for the first time that the cylinder would unlock and rotate during fast double action dry firing. Well it will go back and I am sure S&W will correct it. Still not happy and I have a 5" 625 that needs to be tuned but I hesitate to send it to them now. Any thoughts, advice or recommendations for an alternate tuner?