johnnybravo

One of my molds is a Lyman #356402. It is a 121 gr truncated cone style designed for the 9mm. When I cast up a bunch, I will size them at .357. Since the nominal size is 356, the sizer die doesn't really size them, it just more or less lubes them. I keep a supply on hand to use in the 9mm or 38 special as needed. I use a 160 gr rnl bullet for my main ICORE/USPSA revolver loads. But, I use the 121 gr TC bullet in 38 special for a local steel shoot, and for the kids when they shoot centerfire pistol. Using 4.0 gr Bullseye under the 121 gr bullet in 38 special, it is a very soft shooting and economical load. When I load up a supply, I only change the seating die in the 38 spl setup. I use the same crimp as I use on the 160 gr rnl.

Hmm. Had to think about this one. 1. I figure no one wants to reload anymore than necessary to reduce the "oops" factor. 2. When I'm moving a short distance, the reload has my primary focus, with moving secondary. I just make sure I'm to the next shooting position before the reload is completed. This doesn't mean I slow down on the reload time. 3. When I''m moving a long distance, moving (fast) has my primary focus, with reloading secondary. I will reload a little slower to ensure the reload is good. I just make sure I'm done with the reload before I get to the next shooting position. 4. Sometimes I will make a "luxury reload" if moving a long distance and the next array(s) will push the limit of my partially depleted mag's remaining number of rounds. To sum it up, if my move time is going to be longer than my reloads, I can slow down the reload a bit. If my move time is shorter than my reloads, i can step up the reload speed.

I have good results with Unique also. 5.3 gr Unique, 175 gr truncated cone lead bullet, mixed brass, Winchester primer. 1.128" OAL, 172 PF. I run these thru my Edge with good results.

Thanks. it looks like I'll end up pulling the bullets, and reusing the brass and current primers. It''s an expensive way to get brass, but I wanted the Remington brand brass. The only 38 Short Colt brass I've found for sale so far is Starline. Don't want that, I prefer Remington for my moon clips.

[ Is the ammo you bought "current" or antiques I thought new production was with normal 357/358 bullets and pretty rare to find "on the shelf". If what you bought is "antique", with the "heeled bullets", I would be a little suspicous of the brass also. Is it a "reproduction" of the original, heeled, 38 short colt for "old" (antique) revolvers? Starline currently makes 38 short colt brass which is literally just short 38 special brass. It's really old stuff. It's in the old style Remington boxes. Been on the shelf at a small hardware store for years.

My understanding is that it's like the .22 long rifle round. The part of the bullet that tucks into the mouth of the case is a smaller diameter that the main driving bands. I picked up a 100 rounds of factory 38 Short Colt yesterday, with the intent of shooting them to try out, then reload with my 160 gr rnl. I did some research and found a few sites that indicated you could fire 38 Short Colt thru a 38 or 357 revo. Plus, I've heard it discussed at matches and online. But, upon closer inspection, the factory bullets have a driving band just outside of the case mouth. It is about .13" in length, and about .380" in diameter. The bullets are precoated, nose and all, with thin layer of lube. I was wondering if these driving bands would cause too much pressure. If they would, I could always pull the bullets, and reload with my regular .358 bullets. As I was researching yesterday, I found that the 38 Short Colt was used when .36 caliber black powder pistols were converted to fire cartridges. So, I'm figuring if these heeled ( I'm assuming that''s the correct term) bullets were used in a .36 caliber revo barrel, they ought to fire in a modern 38/357. BUT, I would rather err on the side of caution, and find out from someone who has done it before. Sorry about the drift, but I'm really curious about this. John

This brings up a question: Can you fire factory 38 Short Colt (with the heeled bullet) through a 38/357 revolver?

1. Major PF is not the end all and be all of revolver division. You might try your minor loads for a while til you get used to revolver. Go for accuracy. 2. If your hits are to the left (as a lefty), you are probably pulling the trigger (to the side). If you're just starting out with revolver, or not too familiar with it, there is a tendency to pull the gun toward your strong side as you press the trigger. That can go away with time spent dry firing and practice time at the range.

You are correct, Round Gun Shooter. It doesn't hurt to smooth out the action. I was just trying to caution Jason about spending GOBS of money on a gun he doesn't plan on shootng for forever and a day. By the way, Jason, don't worry about the 28 being "too heavy". The weight does help absorb recoil, and makes it a more "shooter friendly" gun, so to speak. If the 28 you have is relatively little used, it might still have a stiff action. One economical "Gunsmithing technique" to smooth out the action is to put a wee bit of oil inside, and dryfire the gun. Smoothly. This will help wear in the parts. After dry firing several thousand times, try putting in the spring(s) Round Gun Shooter sends you. If you are concerned about dropping the hammer on empty chambers, snap caps are relatively cheap. Dry fire alternating strong and weak hand. You don't have to do it all in one session. The benefits of this are, a smoother action, and it will help improve your double action trigger control. A side note: I have the Hogue brand finger groove gips on my 28. I prefer the fit over the wood grips. John

Hello Jason, Well, since you asked, here is my take on this. First, shoot what you have, don't worry about what you don't have. Go to the IDPA or USPSA matches and shoot your 28 with speedloaders. What's going to happen is you will be exposed to more gun/ammo combinations and choices that the other competitors have. You will also gain practice and experience. You cannot get better without practice/experience. Yes, 38 special will be cheaper and easier to shoot than 357. In the revolver world, major is overrated. IF you are going to save for another gun, don't put money into your 28. It will become a never ending quest to build your current gun into something it is not: Another Gun. Eventually, when you have the money saved and you do purchase a 625 or another moonclipped revolver, you will get more out of the transition from speedloaders to moonclips. You will APPRECIATE the transition, and I believe it will increase your skill level more than if you had started out revolver with moonclips. If there's one thing to remember with revolver shooting it's this": Shoot smooth. Smooth is faster than you think. Don't forget to practice dry firing, John

Out of my 5" Edge: Lyman 401638 mold (truncated cone style) 175 gr sized to .401 5.3 gr Unique Mixed brand brass Winchester primer OAL 1.127" 172 power factor Straight wheel weight lead, any brand lube.

to para phrase Jerry Miculek: if it ain't dripping it ain't got enough lube on it. +1 Yeah, buddy! Shoot it 'til it jams, spray some Break Free on it, then shoot it some more! (Oops. Did I just say that out loud?)

I really like the chrome/stainless finish, for the looks factor and clean up factor. But I noticed the last season or two, I was shooting my blued/parkerized 1911's just a fuzz better than my stainless 1911. I figured the stainless finish was distracting me just a bit as I was shooting a stage. When I bought an Edge this spring, I had a choice of blued or chrome. The chrome was great looking, but this was going to be a strictly competition gun, so I went with the blue. It worked out, as there's no distraction from a fancy finish. So......my answer as to what works for me is: Fancy finish for show, low key finish for go.

If you are considering casting your own bullets, I suggest getting a copy of Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, Third Edition. It can save you a lot of time and money by allowing you to research before you jump in. Most gun shops should be able to order it for you. Casting IS time intensive. Well, so is reloading. So is shooting, driving to matches, match preparation, practice, etc. It is about budgeting your time. I look at casting as an extension of the reloading process. Just as you would do research before you buy a press, Lyman's book will allow you to do some research before you buy casting equipment. John

Did the guy at the range ever shoot lead bullets, or is he just passing on urban myths about the evils of lead bullets? John

Well, lead bullets are cheaper than jacketed, especially if you cast your own. But...... any money saved will be spent on more components or equipment. So you end up spending the same amount of money, you just shoot much more. That being said, I use my own cast bullets, so I'm speaking from experience. John

I thought IDPA limited revolver barrel length to 4 inches. That being said, I used a Bladetech kydex holster for my 5" 625 when I shot IDPA. When IDPA started making barrel length and holster restrictions, I drifted to USPSA and ICORE. I now use a CR Speed World Shoot II model holster for my 6" 686. I have it mounted on a CR Speed belt with a gob of California Competition Works full moon clip holders. I use the same set up for ICORE and USPSA revolver division. My 686 has been modified to accept moon clips. John

It's good to keep things in perspective. Alchohol enhanced stupidity. I used to know a guy that did virtually all his handloading with a lit cigarette dangling from the corner of his mouth. I knew a guy who reloaded while chain smoking. He also carried loose live primers around in his pocket along with his loose change. When he'd dig out money for the coffee machine, there would be live primers mixed with the change. He has passed since, too much smoking. Literally.

I'm using Unique in my 40 Edge with 175gr lead bullets. Uspsa limited division . Power factor 172. I already had a supply of Unique, as I use it in 9mm and 45 acp, USPSA and IDPA loads. It's relatively cheap, more readily available than "exotic" powders, and it works just fine. Goes bang, bullets hits the A zone (well, most of the time), cycles the slide for the next round. That's all I need.

I'm using Unique with cast bullets made from straight wheel weights. Works pretty well.

Just started loading 40 this spring for my shiny new STI Edge. I obtain used 40 brass from here and there. I use a Dillon sizer/decapper, and Lee factory crimp die. I use a lot of glocked brass. I case gauge each and every loaded round. I might find only a few out a thousand that don't pass the gauge test, but it's worth the extra effort to gauge 'em. The loads that pass have no problem functioning.

Hello, colt what a coincidence. I use the same exact same load set up. I use that load for ICORE and USPSA revolver division. I also use the cheapest bullet lube I can get my hands on. No problem with leading, powder residue build up or stuff like that, any more than other combos of powders, bullets, etc.

Well, this method actually works. I use it a lot, especially if I'm going to move before my first shot. the left hand acts as a holster and supports the gun while you establish your strong hand grip.

I use a Lee factory crimp die on my 550. 40 is the first caliber that I actually chamber check each round. Depends where i get my used brass from. Only had a few not pass the chamber check (using gauge). I was the brass' fault not the bullet's. I use Lyman 401638 175 grain truncated cone type bullet. Size them at .401 in star sizer. Plain wheel weight or range scrap lead. Shoot them at 172 power factor. 1.127" oal. Works for me.

I only use the boresnake to get to the chamber. On revolvers I never touch the bore. No need to.