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Peakbagr

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Albany,NY
  • Real Name
    Alan Via

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Looks for Match

Looks for Match (2/11)

  1. I've only shot mine without the 'compensator'. Anyone have experience shooting the 627 with and without. I wonder if a machinist could drill some holes?
  2. The bullet works just got in 50k of plated RN 38 cals sized to .357. My 38 Super loves them.
  3. Hornady is generous with their time and sends replacement parts very quickly. I have a pair of new pawls and spider drive. Haven't taken the time to install them yet so I bump the shell plate each time the press cycles to get the shell plate to drop into its detent. Almost like a rhythm for me. Eventually going to have to install the two parts but with all the time I've spent with the cycling problem, really not looking forward to it. The LnL is a great press but at least on mine, I've run into its Achilles Heel.
  4. To make a mail order worthwhile, I'd have to order a LOT, more than 5k given what I'm reading. What kills me is that I have some 1k primer bricks in the cabinet from just a few years ago with $19 and $21 stickers on them. Ouch! Looks like I can live with the 5k price I'm getting locally. Thanks, guys.
  5. Just called my local shop as I'm running a little low on Federal small pistol primers. His prices are usually pretty good. He said $40/k but price is $30.50/k if I buy 5k. At $30 it isn't too bad, but seems REALLY high on per thousand if I buy less than 5,000.
  6. I've shot Bulleye for years in .45, .38, .38super, .9mm and .357. For whatever reason, it is one of the most accurate powders in any of my shooters. Bullseye is the 'standard' powder for bullsye competition. The problem with Bullseye is that it is filthy. Brass, barrel, chamber, cylinder, all black and grimy. I've kept with it for a long time in spite of those issues but have been experimenting with other powders the last few years...As you mentioned, Solo 1000 and 231 as well as others.
  7. Live in great upstate NY. Can shoot mags of any vintage with a capacity of 10 rds or fewer. To shoot high capacity magazines, they need to be pre-ban and you can get in a lot of trouble otherwise. Does anyone know how to identify S&W pre ban mags, especially those ofr 5906 ? Thanks
  8. I'll try the second one. The first, The Bullet Works link is the same bullet I've been shooting. They are out of stock. Thanks, PB
  9. My supply is running out and the manufacturer is backordered. Anyone suggest a place to buy 147 grain plated RN bullets, .38 cal, .357 diameter? Much appreciated. PB
  10. The match was in upstate NY. I tried the Super Comp brass and it doesn't fit in the moonclips so am going to give it away to the next IPSC shooter I see at one of the local matches. All the other 38 Super brass I picked up will work, but I'll use those in light practice loads and will certainly keep my eye of them. They'll be shot in an N frame.
  11. Thanks, after receiving your reply I tried a piece of the Super Comp brass. Shell plate of LnL worked fine as did the priming. I'll try the SC brass in the moonclips next. Thanks for the 'Super' advice.
  12. Had the great benefit of shooting a match a couple of weeks ago where a lot of the shooters left their Super brass in the grass. Some of the range pickups are .38 Super Comp. I reload Remington .38 Super not the Super Comp. Will the super comp brass fit the .38 Super shell plate on my LnL and can I use my regular Super dies or do I have to toss the Super Comp brass?
  13. I have a 627. After trying .355 and .356's and getting large and inconsistent groups off a rest I almost gave up on the gun. It was suggested that I try .357 and the accuracy and consistentcy greatly improved, but the groups are still not what I'd expect off a bench. Anyone have some suggestions for plated bullets with .358 diameter? I'd be happy to try them. I'm a little spoiled as my S&W 625 and 952-2 shoot leetle tiny groups and I was hoping for the same thing with this gun.
  14. Thanks, guys. For almost all of it's 3+ years, I've been playing the the pawl adjustment. Tiny tweaks at a time, following the manual. Hornady's customer service is mostly very good and I had one of their guys on the phone about 18 months ago. He advised small turns and we tried it. Same result. Sometimes the tweaks work for a little while and then the timing just goes back to the way it was, always with the shellplate opening just a tad short. I know the press pretty well by now, but I'm not a machinist or super handy. Would swapping the spider gear be a big deal to do and would the press have to be dismounted from the bench? There have been times when I've considered sending the press back to Hornady for a complete tuneup, but then I'd be out of action for a couple of months plus the shipping expense, etc...so I've just put up with the problem. Would really like to get it fixed now. Regarding the spent primer tube. If I put it in the press with Indian Head shallac of JB Weld, how do I get the tube out if I need to service the press or otherwise remove the tube? When I look at the design, the press is so well made it seems the brass used primer tube insertion set up is really below the design of the press in terms of quality.
  15. I've had a LnL for 3 1/2 years and have loaded a lot of pistol brass with it. Since I've had it, can't seem to fix a few nagging problems. About 75% of the time, when the shell plate cycles, the primer ram is slightly offcenter.( the shell plate does not come all the way around). So one of my steps is to give the shell plate a little jiggle and then it snaps right into place and I seat the primer. If I forget, then the primer can either get crushed into the bottom of the brass, or, I cycle the press thinking the primer is seated and I end up with a loaded round with no primer. I've played with the pawl adjustments, and the latest combination of small adjustments had the shell plate centering. After loading a few rounds, it was back to having to tap it into place. My other problem is the seating the brass spent primer tube. I've gone thru one of them trying to get it seated in the bottom of the press, and its replacement keeps falling out. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put and not fall out? It seems that the weight of the plastic tube exacerbates the brass tube falling out of the bottom of the press. The LnL is an awesome machine, but these issues have been driving me nuts. I just ordered a conversion kit. When winter comes around I'm going to install it and have Hornady recut my shell plates. Hope you guys can help out.
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