ShootfastRunfaster

This is a great idea for a match. I don't think that competitor turnout would be an issue. MarkCO is on the right track as far as sponsors go. It is a great way to get your products into the hands of many that wouldn't normally get to try them. Ken, Someone pulled it from the match listing.

The lifter has the appearance of a forked tongue of a snake. Instead of being flush across the front, it has a deep u-notch formed in it. This serves to center the shotshell on the lifter as it raises up to feed into the chamber. Depending on how you load, there is a lot of potential for you to get your thumb hung between the end of the shotshell that you are inserting and the notch in the lifter when it begins to lower back down. I have seen some pretty bad hangups on guns that have less of a notch. "Welding " a lifter refers to a talented welder filling the notch with additional metal eliminating the space. This shortens the gap and prevents the thumb from getting stuck. A little fine tuning of the modified lifter is required to make sure that everything clears and the shell feed angle will still be within tolerances. Go out and shoot it a bunch and try all the different loading methods. You will find out if you need the modified lifter pretty quick. If you do need one get with Jeff at C-Rums. Do a quick search and contact info is all over the forums.

I have had the same primer issue with Hornady Steel Match 155's. I could not get them to go off in my Noveske N6, but it is an Armalite pattern gun and I was blaming to firing pin spring that is particular to the Armalite. That was with a full power GI hammer and spring setup. I tried them again last week when I switched to a JP low mass BC and it still won't go on the first hit. The JP is DPMS pattern and does not use a firing pin spring. I suspect hard primers in the batch of ammo that I picked up. I ran them through my M1A and they ran great with superb accuracy. The M1A has a serious hammer in comparison to any AR pattern rifle. Back to the OP, I ran Hornady 155 OTM factory loads for the entire year. They are pricey, but they are brass case with a staked primer pocket and a 155 OTM boattail bullet with cannellure. They run 2610fps out of my N6 with a 16 inch barrel and hold 1 moa. They are full gas and kick you around a bit, but they are 100% reliable. I am looking into 110 VMAX loads for next year and maybe the 125 Sierras. Kuan

Your rail and barrel have to be dead on parallel with each other for them to work properly. If your rail is running high on the business end (Like the older style Troy or the Samson Evolution) you will have elevation problems. You can cheat a little by moving the rear sight further out on the rail. Mount the front sight at the end of your rail and move the rear up until you have a radius equivalent to a pistol. This will give you quite an elevation change and make the sight alignment easier since the rear sight blade is further away from your eye. The rear is the same as their 1911 model so it will be at the proper viewing distance to begin with. Kuan

They are low. If you run them on a standard height top rail they will offset just enough to see them past a LaRue scope mount. If you are running a mount with bolts or levers on the right side, they will be blocked and useless. Some scopes with large diameter windage knobs will block them also. They are designed to be low profile on a working gun so they don't snag on things. If XS pushes them out laterally another 3/8 inch or so they will be much more usable. Kuan

DSG Arms has their Comp series holster. It is the same animal as the NST holster. Check them at http://dsgarms.com they are under the holsters section. Kuan

Its about 1/2 inch low at 25. I am really impressed with the Hornady 55's. I run them in a Noveske 18" over a healthy dose of bl-c(2) and they give me moa performance. Not bad for for a bullet that goes for $11 per 100 from Natchez. Kuan

The knobs are ok, but they don't get used much. It really depends on how far you are going to be shooting. Very few matches have targets at 400 yards and beyond. If they do it is usually only 1 or 2. I have found that you take too much time trying to dial for just one target in a stage. Diverting your attention between the target and the dial takes up too much cognitive power and causes you to make unnecessary movements with your hands. Its better to leave your hands on the rifle and focus on aligning your sighting system with the target. fwiw......I run a 55 Hornady FMJ bullet at 3200 with a 300 yd zero which gives me a maximum p.o.i. of 5 inches high at 180 yds. I hold 6 o'clock for everything 250 yds and in and hold dead on for 250 to 325. For targets at 400, I hold the top edge or just a hair over. Even running Hornady 75's there is still a minimal variance. I just have to hold a little higher on the longer shots. I know Kelly Neal runs a 250 zero along with many others. I have had the opportunity to watch several of the top shooters in both TO and TI, and I have not seen them dial. It comes down knowing your holds regardless of the zero that you choose. Good luck with it, you will like it regardless. Kuan

.02 cents for your consideration. I have a more experience with .308 brakes than I do with .223's. I have tried the PWS, Ops Inc., Surefire, and the Seekins. All of these were tried on an AR pattern .308 with a 16 inch barrel. Full weight carrier and buffer with non-adjustable gas block. The rifle weighs in at around 9 lbs empty. First was the PWS FSC30. This was the least obnoxious and least effective brake. It has the least amount of muzzle blast / concussion felt by the shooter, but it did have a funny after effect. After the initial blast, you could feel a swirlof wind that came back at you. When shooting prone in a dusty spot or in dry grass, it would cause debris to swirl up behind your shooting glasses. Very undesireable effect. Stabilization was decent, but nothing impressive. Second was the Ops Inc. R3ED2C. Pretty decent with no ill effects like the PWS. It was suprisingly good at muzzle flash reduction for a brake. I used it at a night match and had no where near the flash and scattering of a traditional baffle brake. The Surefire MB762K was next and has been my choice for the past year. It is not a competition design brake, but it offers a balance between concussion and recoil mitigation / muzzle stabilization. It is very easy to clean too. I have put around 1000 rds thru it this season with no ill effects. I know that there are more effective brakes out there like the SJC Titan, but this one offers a balance that I like. The Titan hurts my teeth when I shoot a .223 with one and I have been beside others that used one on a .308. I just don't care to be rattled around that much when I am trying to be as smooth as possible in a stage of fire. I tried the Seekins and found that it was so similar to the Surefire that I decided to stick with the Surefire. It is harder to keep clean due to the small baffles and didn't find any real advantage to it. I want to try a Rolling Thunder, but that will have to wait until this years travel expenses are taken care of. I have only tried a small selection of the brakes that are available. Hopefully this will help you with your decisions because having a box full of parts that you don't use gets pricey. Kuan

You win. The 2.5 - 8 isn't as readily seen in 3 gun circles, but they did use them for a couple of the 3GN shootoffs on the stage guns.

Or frozen. 35 degrees and 80% humidity made for a lousy combination. Congratulations to TAC OPTICS winner Nick Atkinson and TAC IRONS winner Chris Anderson. Now that I am thawed out I am going to bed. Kuan

Kyle, Drive from stage to stage for the most part. There will be a couple of places where you might have to walk a little. Last year you only had to hump to the bluff overlooking the valley. The road to the hilltop was a little slick, even for the Penzgauer. Kuan

I'm with Benny on this one. That thing is going to have to go on a diet.

Dunno about USPSA, but every outlaw match that I have looked into requires 7.62x51 as a minimum.

With all the Zombieness going on you could take it to the next gun show and triple your money. Then go buy the Stag. Kuan

Nothing wrong with your build. I run the same barrel with a full weight bolt carrier and an A1 buttstock. Its a sub moa gun and runs as reliable as any gun that I have seen. I agree with others that the PRS stock is a little heavy, but if it makes the rifle point the way that you like it, then stick with it. I also have a gun with a Nordic barrel and it is sub moa, but the Noveske barrel is a little faster and more flat shooting. I run irons so a flatter trajectory is a big deal to me. Don't worry too much about an adjustble gas block for that barrel. The Noveske is cut for his proprietary gas block and most adjustables will no fit properly and can lead to problems. I normally shoot He-Man (I could say Heavy Metal, but Denise might sense that I used the "lesser" term ). My rifle for that is also a Noveske and is very plain. It sounds like you have a good setup, make sure that it runs all the time and go have fun with it. Kuan

I'm not sure how opening this up to the pro series may change things, but there were only 3 of us signed up for Heavy Metal as of today. I agree with JJ in that it is no fun to shoot alone, so I am going to shoot Tac Irons again and see if I can hang on to James C's mountain man beard for a few stages .

Well, that kills any oportunity to shoot HeMan with some of the best HeMan shooters out there, they will all have to drink the koolaid in TS... that is one way to ruin a match I was really looking forward to shooting HeMan at... JJ Crap. I have to go shopping now. I got rid of my scope after the Pro Am.

Thank you Mr. Mayor.

My searchfu is messed up so I am probably. asking a question that has already been answered. Are the stages going to be walking distance from each other? If not, will you need a vehicle other than a utv/ ATV? I am trying to plan a mini-vacation around this match.

You are probably not going to find a solution that gives you 2 aperatures unless you get a Troy Industries rail system that replaces the rear sight and handguard. Then you will be able to mount a stand alone set of sights on the rail. The drawback is that you will be losing sight radius and any chance of getting a consistent cheek weld without a giant add-on cheekpiece. I ran the M1A for several years and found the best solution to be a NM front sight and a standard rear aperature. No hood and full diameter. Plenty of daylight to find the front sight when you are moving around and precise enough because of the NM front blade. Kuan

The rig was DSG Arms. Bravo to Kurt and Trapper and everyone who had a hand in making this match a success.

Tell your son that my family says thank you for raising his hand and answering the call.

No.

Not speaking for Patrick, but I recently got hold of a Seekins in .308 and I could not feel an appreciable difference between it and the Surefire that I have been running. The Seekins 223 is right up there with Titan in .223 but is easier on the skull. I have tried the Titan in both calibers and it is the flattest, but it gives me a headache and I am the one on the gun. Kuan