BeltFed

I did try the X5 FCU in the P320C grip module with both slides, and the results were the same. Release the slide with the slide stop (SS) and it wouldn't function until I pressed down on the trigger bar. Releasing the slide by pulling back on it took a couple of tries to release it, but it functioned. I think I'll just go ahead and start shooting the X5, especially with the crap storm that just started over the P320 drop safety issue. It might take months to get it back if they let me even send it back.

If the manual safety FCU is covered by this upgrade, then yes I'll send mine in. My wife says I have to. It is good to hear the M17s will be out for civilians soon.

Getting pictures may be difficult, but I did swap the FCU into a 320C grip module and had no issues. I'm going to try the X5 slide on the compact grip module with both FCUs tonight to see what happens. The 320C FCU is a manual safety model, so I can't drop it into the X5 grip.

Thanks Nick179 After doing a little more research, I found this is kind of common. I also discovered that after reassembly, if I keep pulling the slide back to release the slide from the slide stop (this may take a few attempts) then everything pops back in place and works fine. However if I use the slide stop to release the slide, the striker wont work and the magazine wont seat, and I have to press down on the bar under the slide stop to get it to work.

I finally picked up a new X5 today. I tried to field strip it, but the take down lever would only move so far. I eventually had to use a block of soft wood and a small hammer to tap it into position. I field stripped the X5, put it back together, then field stripped it again. This time I had no trouble turning the take down lever. Put it back together and tried to function test it. The magazine wouldn't seat, and the striker wouldn't function. After several tear downs and studying the fire control frame, I discovered that I had to push down on a bar under the slide stop lever to allow a stud on the bar to pop into a hole on the slide stop, then it worked just fine. I haven't even loaded a magazine yet, and the thing needs to go back to the factory. Guess this is what happens when you try to push product out of the door to fast. I really like this pistol too.

This is very interesting. I've been waiting for the full size 320 with the thumb safety to come out. I know where I can get a P320 C with a thumb safety, but I didn't know if I could get a large grip that would fit the thumb safety frame. Who did you get the full size grip, slide and barrel from? If you don't mind me asking.

I was thinking of using a leather punch and soldering gun or woodburner too on a Shooters connection belt. Does anyone know if Safariland makes QLS belt anymore? Safariland shows pictures of it, but no information on it on their website. I think a QLS belt would solve several issues for me.

Just checking on the Vortex razor eye pieces, their eye relief run between 18mm to 31mm, depending on if it's a 23x or 32x.

I thought this was another one of those joke questions.............. Buy what you need, and sell what you don't need or use, but be advised, you will regret selling what you don't need or use today (I speak from experience), because you may need it later and can't afford to replace it (a series 70 1911 comes to mind).

No, the question is: Who has the best run 3-gun match?

I'm using an IOR 1.5-8x26 with a 5.56 BDC reticle. It's big (35mm tube), it's heavy, and it's 2nd focal plane, but the glass is great and I love it. Has anybody tried the SWFA 1-6x24HD? The reticle in the first focal plane really intrigues me.

Now I have to buy special 3-gun socks? This sport is really getting expensive

Is $3,000 your ceiling, or do you have a price range? Just a few suggestions I have are the SWFA SS 5-20X50; you can get both a non-illuminated and illuminated Mil-quad reticle for about $1,000 to $1,500 respectively. The Vortex Razor 3-18X50 runs about $2,000. It really depends on your goals and budget. Are you going to be shooting at the same range? Are you going to be shooting long range matches? Need a little more info.

They make a 3gun soap?!?! What's it called, where can I get it, and how much does it cost? How much time will it knock off a stage on average, and will it help my split times?

As stated before both 7.62 and 5.56 NATO brass have thicker walls than commercial 308 Winchester and 223 Remington brass, so you need to work up slowly. I believe Speer makes or made a manual that has data for military brass. For bulk blasting practice ammo, I load for military brass since I have a big supply, and I hate surprises.

I use the Midway bag and love it, but what do I know

I usually deprime my brass with a Lee universal deprimer die in station 1 on my 650, and then trim on station 2. I do this so I can get as much air flow through the case to minimize chips in the case. It seems to work, as I don't find many chips after I clean the cases.

At 300yds spotting .22 cal. holes or .30cal for that matter can be tricky, because things like mirage and humidity are starting to really have an effect on the image you see through a spotting scope. The tripod you use is also important. If you can't keep your scope from moving from vibration while you try to focus it, or the wind, or some other issue that keeps the image moving, then it doesn't matter how good your scope is. I use a Pentax PF80 with a 20-60x eyepiece; a $1,000.00 scope, and it barely gets the job done for .30cal. holes on a warm day at 300yds., yet at 200yds. there is no problem spotting .30 or .22 cal. holes. Now, the better the glass you have, the better your image is going to be, but the atmosphere is still going to have an effect. The real question is how much you have to spend, and what are your shooting conditions. A camera system might be the better idea, unless you have to worry about a stray shot finding your equipment; in that case you may want an expensive spotter.

What are the advantages of the RT1500 over the 1200?

My first Dillon is a 400. Had to slap a primer bar and powder charge bar with each stroke of the handle and rotation of the shell plate, but it beat a Rock Chucker. I must be old.

I clean the lube on loaded rounds with corn cob media. If it's just preped brass, I wash it using Simple Green, then rinse and dry it in the oven at 250* for 30 to 45 minutes. I usually leave it setting in a room close to a dehumidifier for a couple of days before loading.

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-HD-1-6x24-Tactical-30mm-Riflescope-P53845.aspx The SWFA is a first focal plane scope with a Mil-dot reticle that is designed to be usable at low and high power with an illuminated reticle, and is $999.95.

+1 for the 870. Not that there is anything wrong with the others, but the 870 is a shotgun I could operate in my sleep, and there are plenty of accesories and technical support.

http://swfa.com/Zeiss-12-5x36-Conquest-Duralyt-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P51694.aspx Anybody have any experience with this scope for 3-gun? Does it have any issues with tunneling? Seems like it would be ideal, I was just wondering if I was missing something.

I have more issues with smoke than flash. Why do they call it smokeless powder when you can't see your target for the smoke?