Petrov

I know they saying goes "if it is not broken dont fix it", but modifying the revo's is part of the fun for me. Any one installed the APEX hammer on their wheelgun?

Just wanted to give you a quick update after putting 400 rounds through it. Being a southpaw has it's advantages. I have short fingers, I can put my weak hand thumb on the blast shiled and my strong hand thumb behind it resting right next to the hammer, works REALLY well for recoil control. But I also understant the JM round fat wood grips, they work better with high grip.

Hey guys. Walked into my local gunrange/ffl place and they had a pro series 627-5 on the shelf. My only other experience with revolvers is shooting Dan Wessons (Meant to be shot in single action silly double action pull). The pull on the 627 was something, short and light, very pleasant somewhat like a glocks pull (weighgt wise) but much smoother and consistant. My lung us bruised right under my shoulder so shooting was very painfull but I manged to get a respectable 5.5" 8 shot group at 25 yards with factory PMC 38 special ammo. I have short stubby fingers, the revolver lends itself surptising well to my hands, I can get all my thumbs well forward. I keep my dominant thumb almost on top of the rubber grip to manage recoil (well what little recoil there is). My Dan wesson would build up in pull weight lock up and then you just pulled through. Here the trigger is very smooth and consistent no stacking almost the same pull weight throught, having a bit of a hard time figuring out when the cylinder locks up and I can do the final "pull" Have some questions here. The trigger and the hammer look case hardned (dull black stains),is that regular milled parts or MIM? My dan wesson locks the crane to the frame with a latch there is nothing to lock the crane to the frame on the 627 I dont even see a ball detent. How does the crane lock up? I really like serrated heinie sights, anything like that I can get for the 627? Oh, I assume I should use round nose bullets to facilitate moonclip reloads? any suggestions for bullet brands? Oh and powder for lead bullets? I used titegroup for my Dan Wesson but it smokes and leaves allot of lead around the cylinder face. Thanks! Oh and pics! Why do you folks use wood grips on these pistols? you get an excellent grip with the rubber ones and using wood grips with 357 mag is just painful.

I am 5'7" and have medium hands. I can not get slide bite if I tried. The only way I can get the slide to bite my web if I use my off hand to shove the stronghand on top of the beavertail.

Well mine is missing a whole chunk, the lighting does not show it but it is pretty deep, I am wondering if this is what is causing accuracy problems.

I know that the locking blocks are cast and there might be a dimple or something but is this much surface area missing normal?

Their spec is less than 2" groups of 3 shots at 10 yards. If it meets that there is no problem, in their eyes. Yep, yet at 25 yards I have rouds hitting the target holder not even the target or the paper it is printed on, offhand, rested,sandbagged, had another guy shoot it too with the same results. VERY frustrated as I am basically out of 600$ thanks S&W

My M&P has been back to the factory twice, the refuse to fix the accuracy problem, correction the refuse to acknowlege it.

CZ shadow does not have a FPB, so the reset on it is nice unlike the rest of CZ'. But don't you have to decock it manually for USPSA? I have a whole slew of CZ's they are the most accurate mechanically (tested from a pistol rest) But I shoot a glock and M&P better. Matter of preference, I can not stand the long reset, so for me the reset makes or breaks the pistol.

I think I ran into you on another forum,I mentioned it there I will mention this to the rest of the people so they dont get burned. I have a problem with my M&P not shooting worth shit at 25 yards and striker leaving gouges drag marks on the primer. Sent it to smith, they test fired at 15 yards told me that it was within spec. So basically I have a 600$ paperweight.

Twiggys chest? You sir are showing your age I had a mild load get flat primers too. I tracked it back to my crimps being WAAAAYYYY too firm. Check your crimp die?

I use WC844 (H335) 24.5 grains and a magnum primer. Use it for my .223 plinking loads.

I do pretty good simulating speer gold dot 124 gr JHP load with 5.4 grains of N350, the feel is almost identical.

Been running 124gr FMJ form PD over 5.5 grains of N350 with 1.15 oal. It is very stout.

{quote] German steel, specifically, from the turn of the century, as used by Mauser, Luger, etc was extremely high quality, and probably better than stuff like 416 stainless we see most commonly today. R, Probably because they bought it from the Swedes, very nice nickel content.

I thought they were, going to have to give their TMJ a try in that case.

Arent MG bullet plated? Cant push plated stuff as hard as jacketed stuff?

Hey folks, I have lots of delta precision 124 grain FMJ's. I am trying to make some self defense practice ammo that mimics my carry load(Speer Gold dot lawman 9mm). I have lots oh VV N350. VV loading manual lists Lapua and Rainer bullets but not delta. What should my seating depth be? Can I go off the other 124 grain bullet listings in the VV manual? If it matters this will be fired out of S&W M&P.

Bah! I go to the source! too much work mucking around with lube, I just dab a bit of lube on the inside mouth of the die once in a while. No mess easy and doesnt get lube inside the case.

Welcome! the only word I know in Soumi is Perkele! My great grandpa fought in the winter war. Talvisota?

It was worth it for me! I could barley see my toes when I looked down without glasses. For my front sight I had to have that giant golf ball from XS sights to be able to see the front sight. I dont have perfect 20/20 vison, but my astigmatism is gone I can drive and function without glasses unlike before and I can focus on pistol sights fast and easy.

It comes with 2 tool heads.

Hi guys, I have a question for you. I have a chance to buy a Dillon 1050 with an extra die head .223 9mm .44mag and 40S&W dies plus all of the accesories, powder check, primer alerm etc. The machine is in good condition used very little. What would be a fair price for something like this? The guy who is selling it is a good man dont want to short change him and he just wants to get rid of it. Thanks. Edit: Apologies its a super 1050 and it also comes with a case feeder.

Difficult, unless your thumb has one more joint than mine. I am of right mind and I am thinking of removing the right hand side decocker lever (operated by left thumb) on a SP-01 Tactical by switching it with a left side only 75D lever for the following reasons: 1. It enables me to have a higher grip without risk of activating the decock mechanism. For me, this happens maybe 1:500 times when the grip position and left thumb pressure are just so that as I pull the trigger, the decocking mechanism is activated. When I try to reproduce it by dry firing, it "never" happens. This is often enough that I want to address it on a competition gun by removing the decock lever on the right side of the gun. 2. Decock lever is not like a safety lever that I use as I bring the gun up to the firing position. It is used (at least in competition) during the LAMR command and really no where else. As a lefty, I can readily swing your thumb over to the left side of gun or use my right hand to activate the decocker. Slightly inconvenient but something most lefties can do this type of activity as part of adapting to a world dominated by the left brained majority. So in my opinion, if you are using a 75D today, you are not at any disadvantage in Production Division or SSP with the left sided only decocker lever. Im a left handed guy that uses PCR for local IDPA type shooting. the decoker lever "on the wrong side" works out great for me.

Be 100% sure that its the arrows not the indian is the major opinion so far. BTW I would drop the money on the trigger job any way. I hear nothing but good things about his trigger jobs on CZ forums.