JsK

No one ever had that attitude with me. Most where very curious about it from the "it would be perfect for my wife, daughter , girlfriend, kid, new shooter ect" the idea of a sub 500 dollar gun that runs and shoots well is very appealing to alot of shooters. Maybe not for themselves but for a number of different reasons.

Personally i would rather shoot a ruger than any 500 dollar AR. The rugers are accurate , simply and for the most part pretty reliable. Yes mine was around 7.5 pounds but the weight is quite a bit further back than most ARs so it balanced well. The biggest issue was the wrist angle meant you had to draw backwards underhand vs having the stock at cheek height and the reloads are a tick slower because you have to slip the button on the way back to the mag. Out of the box they shoot flater and softer than any cheap AR, and it actually took a bit of work to get my splits back to where they where with the ruger when i moved to an AR platform.

Personally I don't think the Holosun has better glass or is clearer, its just shaded so it appears that way. My biggest issue with the C-more is the adjustment screws are pretty coarse making a 50 or 100yd zero a pain in the ass. The battery life also sucks compared to the newer optics. That makes the Holosun a better all around choice while a C-more is fine for USPSA or Steel Challenge. Be very wary of a 185.00 C-more, there are lots of fakes on Amazon and Ebay. I think Homie has a C-more for sale. The reason I recommended a simple 6oz buffer and JP 308 rifle spring is allows you to spend money in other places and build you buffer system later. If you wanna do it all at once get the Blitz 5007 buffer, 2.7oz buffer weight and the JP308 rifle length spring.

C-more- yes, great pistol/uspsa match optic. If your planning on shooting beyond 50 yards there are better and cheaper options. The foam handguard works with the ULW barrel system from taccom not the tension barrel. If you really like that style setup I would just get the whole taccom upper and keep your other bolt for a spare. If you decide to build an upper with a standard barrel ( shooters inovation is my suggestion) then the taccom carbon handguard is a great option. Finally if your gonna shoot factory ammo your giving up one of the biggest tuning aids for your pcc. Nothing against the taccom system but with factory ammo I would spend my money other places and just get a standard 9mm buffer and a sprinco or JP spring. Short stroke it with a cheap plastic spacer( not quarters) and shoot it until you start reloading.

If that barrel.shot like that for them with a variety of loads and could do no better than 4" for you I would stop thinking bullet voodoo and look at your optic. If it only shot with some special pet handload of there's then maybe a picky barrel but with that many factory loads shooting well its got to be in your setup.

Well its stainless and I usually break stainless barrels In the same way with 1 shot and clean x 3, 3 shots and clean x 3, and 5 shots and clean. Most say its useless , but its just how I have always done rifles. Pretty sure its either baffle strike in the comps or something with the chamber to have those MBX barrels shooting that bad.

One of the guys I shoot with has a ULW (taccom)barrel that's literally throwing rocks bad with 115 and 124-5 grain bullets. Switch over to 147s and it will put then all into 2" at 50 yards. For him its a compramise he was willing to make so he kept the barrel. If the accuracy is not there with one load you might try other bullet weight before sending it back.

Factory glock mags with an extension of your choice is still the best bet. I prefer MBX ones but the taylors and others seem to work just fine providing its a glock donor mag. I tried the 21 rd magpuls and there now regulated to loading practice as the feed lips are worn out. But yeah economics says we are to small of a market. I personally can't wait to go to better steel mags anyway. Hopefully QC10 or NFA will make lowers for Sig or 2011 mags.

Mine was shooting around 3" at 50 yards with unsorted brass and 125 jhp loads. That's with a 6moa dot so I am sure with scope it would be around 2".

Call Tim and set it up the way he had it. Those bolts work pretty well the way that Taccom builds em. He can sell you the correct parts.

I don't think I would be hitting things with a hammer just yet. Locktite lets loose about the same temp so red or blue or green does not really matter. Get a screwdriver that fits tight in those slots and heat the screws with a soldering iron or a mini torch. You can try and pull it off In one piece but I doubt your strap wrench would do it without breaking.

As mitch said, 2oz spacer, 16oz bolt, 6 oz buffer.

Made mine, maybe they are going to have this as a production item now.

Mine was 17oz total. Have not shot it at 100 yards but 50 was the typical 2-3 inch groups with a 6moa dot. Was thinking of putting a scope on really seeing what its capable of but had to much prep work for a night match. Only disapointment is no feedramp but a Taccom one fixed that issue.

I have some night match videos I can post later for the MBX with the light at the bottom.

The MBX comp works fine in aluminum. Mine has prob 8k through it in my ruger and its fine. Cant use some of the more agrressive cleaning methods but if you keep it wet with CLP, welding splatter spray or something else to keep crap from sticking it makes things easier with any comp.Also no exposed lead base bullets stick with jhp, plated or tfmj.

The light weight MBX barrel is already done for you. I looked into getting a barrel and comp seperately and having it done local but it ended up being cheaper to just buy the MBX unit. 300 for a 17oz barrel with comp is actually a pretty good deal once you do the math.

The MBX is 17oz with the pinned and welded comp. All stainless, does not have a feed ramp but that's easy to fix.

Are you looking for for comfort or weight? The simple mil spec on a standard buffer tube is around 10.5 oz. The only thing lighter with any practicality would be a Minimilist on a Vseven 2055 buffer tube, that would be a 9.5 but around 125.00 bucks for the pair. The Lancer is a nice stock, super comfy cheek weld but its not light at 9.9 oz without the tube. Add in another 5 oz for rifle length tube and the spacers needed to get you back to a carbine length buffer depth and it gets to be a pain real fast. Something like a CTR or MOE is gonna come in at about 13-15 oz with the tube. Not really any lighter than your cheapo mil spec. To give you an idea something with pure comfort in mind like an Zulu2 is gonna be 20 oz with the tube. If you gonna add a bit of weight though the stock is not a bad place to do it.

Just went to there site. The lightweight barrels are in stock.

MBX now has a light weight version of there 14.5 with the comp pinned and welded. There comp is one of the few that doesn't just look like a recycled 223 brake. Got mine yesterday, full length barrel 17.5 oz

I doubt there as much done to them as people might think. BX or hand finished trigger components and change the extractor and ejector every 500 rounds. Lack of spare parts is the biggest challenge right now.

I guess my question at this point is if you thinks its worth the trouble vs just building a straight blowback gun with a ULW barrel. How much softer does a guard shoot?

One of our local shops has a 8" guard barrel and bolt, toyed with the idea of building a shrouded barrel gun if I could get it pinned and welded at a reasonable cost. How much different are the CMMG lowers and upper from the normal AR9 parts? Its not nearly as intersting if I have to use there upper and lower.

Balance is more important than overall weight. Keep it balanced on at the pistol grip. Part of the reason the rugers shoot lighter than they are is the rearward balance.