sfinney

Glock 20 (with or without a longer slide) with a barrel in.40 would allow long loaded .40 ammo in the mags. You could even still call it a "10mm" and just fire "short 10mm" .40sw through it.

Most of this could be fixed with benefit of the doubt always to the shooter - even if just one long tear across the target C to C, far in excess of a measurable single bullet hole, wouldn't you always have to give the shooter 2 A if 2 shots were attempted? How do you know the 2nd one didn't go through the same tear, its not like there's a grease ring.

For a bolt to cycle faster it needs to be either lighter, less spring weight, or both. Or practice doing a full trigger release and pull every shot..... what split times are you running that you consistently out run the bolt cycling?

Good info, of where to start. I’m also a trigger snob to a large extent…. The Timney in my G34 uses all stock upper and lower parts other than the trigger kit. One of the beautiful things about this design is you can use stock striker springs and unmodified non lightened strikers and not really have a heavier trigger. As Shredder said, if you absolutely need ALL take up and over travel out, no fudge factor, you can tune it further with overtravel screws etc. a Vanek or similar modded housing can get you there. I have shot primarily 1.75 to 2 pound sa triggers in Limited and Open SV and STI guns over the years, and very VERY much prefer a 1911 trigger to a striker trigger. And have also shot and liked some range only long range rifle super light Jewel triggers - perfection. This Timney is not a high dollar 1911 trigger or precision rifle trigger. But it’s the best least hassle striker trigger for a Glock I’ve tried …. Drop in or otherwise, that still keeps safeties in tact and seems reliable with ANY primer, not just soft Federals. Canik Salient triggers are darn nice out of the box, and my tuned Sig Grayguns triggers were decent (but never liked the reset feel). But I like the Timney Alpha in my Gen 5 better.

Drop it in and try it. Mine is pretty damn perfect and does not need to be lighter. if you don’t like , Johnny is the one to tune it for you.

Draw should be same motion more or less. Gun Up, hands come together in front of chest, extend pistol towards target while looking down sight/dot, trigger press as you get min acceptable sight picture. If you are trying more like gun out of holster fast and move muzzle towards target, then try to level it out - then find a sight picture, you won’t get any consistency. Dont skip steps, it won’t be faster overall. If you want to have a faster 1st shot work on getting the least acceptable sight picture, quicker. Which comes from being efficient and repeatable.

Happen to play much Fallout?

What he said.

Stock.

Solid firm grip. Most pressure in your off hand. Keep sight picture aligned III as trigger breaks. Keep your eyes open and don’t pre-anticipate recoil. Let the gun recoil. it’s ok to have front sight focus but with iron sights your eyes should be going out to target and back to sights, repeat… harder to do with prescription lenses/older eyes. Dry fire and practice on small targets and with your smooth pull trigger press keep the gun perfectly still. If it moves, you did it wrong.

I usually figure that one out when I'm asking myself "why is there powder all over my machine and bench?"

“Geez why can’t I get this hex bolt loose to change the shell plate ?! Guess I’ll just force it up and out turn by turn. Shouldn’t be this hard….” oh yeah, forgot the small locking hex screw on the 550 ram. Duh. what’s really funny is I have done it more than a few times.

I find lubricant works equally well with right hand or left.

Yep, .40 killed .45 in the mid 90’s. like others said you could build a Para tuned gun to hold 18 rounds, (that were the gun that started killing single stack limited guns). But even those diehards switched to .40 in their Paras, or like most jumped to 2011 and 20+ rounds in .40 I have seen recently some matches that plan on 18 round stage max? so you could dust off one of those .45 guns and be in the game. But even so 20 or 21 is just more flexible, and allows a margin of error to push faster. But let’s face it, for most mortals, shooting an 18 round vs 21 round gun, or .45 vs .40 is not the main limiting factor holding the shooter back from being competitive at lower levels.

Trigger overtravel screw impacts the newly replaced mag release you mentioned. Could be the screw needs a little more slack with the new release. And/or more sear spring pressure, left legs.

I'd imagine a service carbine in 9mm is designed to shoot pretty stout 9mm..... usually overseas factory 9mm made for MG or whatnot is loaded pretty hot. Are you using light loads? Can you lighten your recoil spring? Chamber dirty or "grabbing" cases? Check the extractor for any dirt build up or worn edges.

Break it down to shooting positions. Shoot these 4 targets here.... in this order. Move ,reload, then shoot this array from here.... move, reload, repeat. I find it easier to remember each small section, and then stitch it together with movement/reload points. Trying to put the whole un in your head as one data dump can come with time and practice, but can be a handful. Like memorizing a phone number can be a lot of digits all strung together; but if you have a 1, and then 3 digit area code, then 3 digits then 4, it becomes easier to grasp. Now, some stages are just crazy and designed to mess with memorization, and will test your ability to remember which targets are engaged already and which are not. Those take a little more, but can also be broken down to shooting positions etc.... the trick here is not overthinking it and reengaging a target (or skipping one). If all else fails, like stated above in other posts, clear your mind, then shoot them as you see them, one trigger press at a time, and move as efficiently as possible from point to point til you are at the end. Sometimes pushing to hard and the rush to be fast disables your ability to just flow. And I usually DO NOT watch the guy right before me shoot as I should already have a plan in my head and watching them may mess me up mentally. I should be executing my plan on deck, not anyone else's.

Thanks rishii - that's a cool product to fix the dreaded over dremel syndrome. Now, I just need someone with a cutter and the ability to install it.

Ok, thanks. As stated I am leaning towards getting a proper feedramp. I don’t think I can get a good feeding ramp with the non-supported barrel in hand without welding up the frame and recutting…. it looks over cut. I used to have a few guys on speed dial who do this kind of work… but they are all dead or retired. First 2011 project I’ve worked on in 20 years. Any names or links to point me towards those service mentioned above appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, Looking for some input - I have an old SV 2011 frame that came pretty solid other than the feedramp in the frame was never cut for a ramped barrel, and the previous owner overramped the frame to fit a non-ramp barrel (it to was over relieved). I am in the process of fitting a new 9mm barrel to it (a 9mm slide dropped right on more or less), barrel is a new Ed Brown that is also non-ramped (as was going to be an easy project). Everything fits up fine but, you guessed, it does not like to feed from any style mag (new gen STI, older SV, MBX)... the bullet nose goes nose down enough to catch on the barrel ramp which slightly protrudes back over the frame ramp. I am going to go with one of these options: a) cheap option - over relieve and over ramp the barrel to match frame and hope for the best on chamber support (running minor) - pic of barrel is about how much I'm guessing will need to be taken off and opened up, eyeballing it. I just want this to be a fun range gun and not really caring if 100% proper as long as it runs. b) pay someone to weld up the frame ramp back to stock shape, then fit to run with the pictured unaltered barrel (non-ramped) c) just bite the bullet and have the frame cut for a ramped barrel and then fit a new ramped barrel, for best reliability? d) sell the complete SV frame with original plastic uncut SV grip (complete lower) to someone looking for such to complete a project if a , b , or c don't happen. I'm leaning towards option C. Might try A just for kicks to see if will work in meantime. Just hate to ruin a barrel for nothing. Any thoughts, and in particular, recommend a smith not to proud to just do just this limited amount of work (welding ramp, or a Nowlin / Clark ramp cut) on and old beater gun rather than a full custom pistol build? I don't mind shipping; local to south Louisiana or south MS area a plus. Thanks!

Could care less what you "defile"- it's your pistol. Just wondering about the thought process of why this would seem worthwhile or...... well never mind. Guess this falls under the category of "Hold my beer......."

Looks like something crafted in Fallout 4. You sir, are twisted.

Welcome to the forums Joel!

Yes, back on topic - I pick Major, but a modified answer: Get some dang extensions/springs/followers for your 16 round .40 mags and shoot with 20 or 21 rounds. Which gun are hypothetically talking about that maxes out at 16 .40s in the 140 mag?

Best sight for the money. Of course mine was a 507C and used the full size RMR footprint. When I researched the K a month or so ago, as I was curious on the lower price, It jumped out to me in about 5 or 10 minutes from online reviews and specs it was designed as a small sight to fit the compact guns like a 43 or 365. You could of course put it on a full size gun if you have it milled, or maybe find the right adapter plates, but why? If google and Youtube reviews cant answer your questions, forums like this are GREAT resources to ask questions about such products - rather than later post your disappointments that a spec page didn't include enough data.