Jediwarrior

Do a search on this forum for the recommended OAL. Since you already have Grams followers, your magazine bodies do not have the spacers in the front. So you need to seat your bullets a little longer to prevent nosedives.

It appears to be a 1911 from the Philippines. Receiver is made from investment casting. It was probably imported semi-finished so it could be marked "Made in Italy". Armscor imports and assembles Tanfoglio pistols into the Philippines. They also make 1911's for STI, High Standard and others here in the U.S.

Yes, factory length ammo is reliable with the 10mm mags. But when you do reload, lengthen it a bit. There are no drop-in mag wells available for the Match. The Tanfoglio factory bolt-on will not fit either. Check out another posting on this topic regarding holsters. I use the Safariland 568 holster and their 773 magazine pouchs. Cost is lower than Blade-Tech holsters and SpeedMag pouches. Select the 568 holster for the Gov't 1911, and the 773 pouches for the Glock 17/22/34 magazines.

Just wanted to add this after reading other topics on the Large frame 9mm magazines. There are magazines out there with a spacer in the front, and mags without. The mags with a spacer is reliable only with 10 rounds or less. This is because the follower binds with the spacer as it goes further down. They cut the middle of the follower for the spacer, preventing it from properly tilting to the left as rounds are loaded. This results in the top rounds to nose dive as the there is less spring force for the follower to move up. Same is true with their .40 magazines. Some have and some don't have spacers.

I recommend you get the 40. You can get extended base pads from Henning Wallgren. Change out the followers and springs to Grams, and you get 20 or 21 rounds. Make sure you buy the 10mm mags, since the Grams followers work on mags without spacers. They are very reliable.

Over the years, there have been different sights. Now, they have added a light rail. Also, there have been different magazine designs, one with and without a spacer. It does not make any difference. I have an older model with the Supersight. It looks like a Bo-Mar. I shoots well straight from the box. I did change the recoil spring to a heavier one. I use Wolff, make sure you order the one for the Long slide model. I don't know about lead bullets since I use copper plated bullets on mine. Generally speaking, 9mm is more accurate with plated or jacketed bullets, especially with polygonal rifling. The rifling on the Match is standard.

Yup, you are right. It will readily accept extended magazine tubes. The lower recoil of the gas system on the TX4 will be an advantage over the Benelli M2. The high profile sight; however, will be a disadvantage. I hope they come out with a ribbed barrel with a big fiber optic front sight.

It appears to ba a reincarnation of the Beretta Rx4. Fired one before. It has a heavy bolt carrier that slams back into the aluminum lower. Trigger pull is like a semi-auto shotgun. Difficult to clean. Not that accurate. The one I fired was not reliable. They might have fixed it on this newer version. Does not seem to be heavy duty. I'll stick to my AR-15's.

As a gunsmith, I concur with most of the replies. Most parts are made from casting, and they have a tendency to break. I have seen the Power Extractor break. The bore is sometimes oversize, and accuracy is mediocre. Fitting is loose, and tuning of the feed ramp may be necessary. If you want an all steel, accurate, reliable 40 cal. pistol that can hold 20 rounds with extended base pads, try the EAA Tanfoglio Witness Match. This is their single-action model, two-tone with 4.75 in. barrel. The only problem is that they no longer come with the Bo-Mar style Supersight (made by LPA). It now comes with a Novak-style adjustable that is too small. The latest ones even come with a light rail, which is a problem when finding holsters. Best of all, they are brand new for only $500. Spare mags can be had for $25.

The ground mark you see was to remove a casting excess. I filed it on one of my Match guns coz it was denting my mags as I fire it. My other Match had a moto-tool mark on it from the factory. You can lighten the pull by simply changing to a lighter mainspring, and lubricating it generously. The set screw is metric, so you may have to order one from Henning. I thinned my rubber grips using a moto-tool. I believe this is IDPA legal.

Safariland 568-53 Paddle holster or 567-53 Belt Loop holster. Check out their website, www.holsters.com. This is the same model for the 5" Colt Gov't Model. In their latest offering, Safariland combined the 568 Paddle holster with an optional belt loop, so you can choose which style you want. Just remove the 2 screws and mount whichever attachment you want. There are 3 positions for cant on the belt loop attachment. I bought my 567 from Cheaper Than Dirt when they were still available. I use it for IDPA.

Hey Joe, thanks for the info. That was very informative. Now, I know what to buy.

Greetings from Virginia, I want to know what is the difference between the Browning Hi-Power MKIII and the earlier pistols. I saw in Gunbroker that the MKIII uses a different trigger spring and/or sear lever. Is this supposed to make the trigger pull heavier or lighter? Just wondering coz I might buy a used one for collection, and I customize it later on. Thanks in advance.

I dislike the newer sights that are found on the Match and Stock. Looks like they were made for carrying. I had the elevation screw on my Supersight back out on a match. I ended up shooting high on steel plates on a Texas Star. Lost valuable time. I should have painted the screw so I can see if it's backing out. They should make the elevation screw with a detent click like the Bo-Mar. Or at least put a set screw on the side to lock the elevation screw.

I have a Match SA trigger. I want to curvature to change such that your finger will consistent rest on the lower half of the trigger for maximum leverage. That means removing the curve at the bottom of the trigger and adding a larger radius at the top. This will allow your finger to naturally position itself at the bottom half of the trigger.

Hmm, you should have done the research on drill size for tapping. There are several charts available online from drill makers. A hole on the small side will break taps. Also, I prefer using 3-Flute High Speed Steel (HSS) taps for all my gunsmithing work, especially on hardened slides and receivers.

Here is a picture taken from the Caspian website. It's $35. You have to remove material from both the base and the locking plate. Product Code: M47B40.

IMHO, Modified does not fill a unique category. It's simply an Open gun in Cal. 40 that will fit a box. People cut the slide/barrel and the backstrap to make it fit in a box with an optical sight. It is usually angled to make more rounds fit into the magazine. They are the ugliest guns ever made. If we were to make Modified a truly unique category in between Open and Standard/Limited, we should eliminate the optical sight. Portings and weights will still be allowed. This will allow the ported Glocks and the Hybrids to compete in their own category. People can now experiment with portings and aperture sights. And we should limit the amount of the angle of the gun inside the box. I suggest less that 3 degrees from the slide line.

Nope, just 20. I use the Grams follower and the 11-coil Wolff spring. My Henning pad is the old H-140. It only holds 20.

I am using a Match SA gun in 40 S&W for USPSA Limited and I wanted to share this info. I have been using a Henning base pad and so far it works great. But cleaning it in between stages can be troublesome. Then I saw Caspian quick release base pads for their hi-cap receivers. Bought a few and had them trimmed the top so they could lock into the gun. Now, I can clean quickly between stages, especially when the ground is dry and dusty. I also use a 9mm Match SA for IDPA and use factory mags. Bought both guns at less than $500 each. I think they are the best value for USPSA/IDPA.

Yup, I tried it before. Don't like it. Difficult to use and there are no rollers for the stone to glide on. The hammer fixture is not that useful. The Marvel Custom ($50) so far works for me. Jerry Kuhnhasen's book is a good reference to start with.

I agree with DougR. You can't just buy a jig and stones from Brownells and do it yourself, you have to know important things like heights, angles and spring weights. Knowledge of the working relationship of the other parts, like disconnector, trigger, recoil spring, is also important. If you shoot a lot, and wear out the sear and/or hammer sooner than you like, and have some engineering background, then you may want consider doing it. I use a Marvel Custom sear jig, with Brownells ground ceramic stones, both black (medium) and white (fine). The Yavapai microscope is great for looking at the sear engagement. I also use 3M polishing paper, but is hard to find. Unfortunately, there are not many books and reference material about this kind of work. Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Colt 45 Automatic, A Shop Manual Vol. 1" is a good start. Lastly, use high quality parts from EGW, Ed Brown, Wilson Combat for longer lasting trigger pulls.

Creep is the result of the primary surface of the sear at a negative angle in relation to the surface of the hammer. This is assuming that the height of the hammer hooks are correct, and the sear has a proper secondary or clearance cut. Bending the middle leg forward of the sear spring will not help since you are adding weight to the disconnector and trigger, which will magnify the feeling of creep. Bending the left leg (which contacts the sear) backward may help, but you risk of having hammer follow. I don't believe that hammer/sear sets are 100% drop-in. The primary surface of the sear may not always be in full contact with the hammer hooks, and you may need to stone the sear using a sear jig. Changes as small as 30 minutes (half a degree) can affect the trigger pull. I suggest you have your set worked on by an experienced pistolsmith who has the proper tools.

I have seen more broken barrels with the Wilson/Nowlin ramp design than the Clark/Para/Lissner design. Generally, I prefer C/P/L design on STI/SVI frames with long dust covers. It's much easier to cut since you mount the frame horizontally on the vise. For frames with standard-length dust covers, I use W/N so I could interchange easily with other brands of barrels. Although the C/P/L design is much stronger, the only disadvantage is the hand filing of the radius on the frame to match the fillet radius on the barrel. Use lots of Dykem Blue. Make sure you follow instructions on the measurements, removing too much or too little will cause problems.

I've used Shooting Star 10-rd mags without any problems. I like steel followers as they don't get chewed up like plastic ones.