Jediwarrior

0.300 in. x 60* Corrected:

If your rounds will drop into the barrel with no hang ups, then the FTF is probably caused by tight extractor tension on your AFTEC extractor with standard 38 Super (semi-rimmed) rounds. Whether the hanging up caused the rings in the chamber, or the rings were already there from the start due to a dull chamber reamer, that is the question.

Asking the shooter to change his shooting style/technique doesn't give much confidence as he doesn't know when not to do it. Ideally, you tailor the gun to the shooter, within certain limits. So any mechanical improvements on the gun would be welcome. Thanks Jrbet83.

The newer STI fames have an added reinforcement under the slide stop notch. This is to prevent the crack from going deep down. You have to relieve the frame at this point. A small bevel all around would help too. The grip bushing may need to have a larger relief.

I would say 70% of my builds are #3 and #4. 20% are #5 2% are #2 8% are greater the #5. Ed Brown used to sell an extra long link that would be an equivalent to a Wilson # 6.

I see what you mean. A short link (Wilson #1) will have slightly different dimensions. Point A will always have a clearance. Ideal minimum is 0.005 in. Material removed here will be a lot for #1 link. Point B and C could move closer to the vertical centerline. So length of flat (from point C to D) could be shorter to about 0.070 in. I haven't fitted a barrel that used a #1 link, and I avoid this by setting the barrel higher so I could use a #2 link.

I think this is just Colt's style of machining the ejection port. The barrel hood width is probably similar as the others (Caspian, STI, etc.) about 0.375 in.

Have you checked out the Brownells Recording trigger pull gauge for $110? http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/measuring-tools/trigger-pull-gauges-weights/recording-trigger-pull-gauge-prod4985.aspx I believe in spring type recording gauges as they as quick and easy to use. No need to guess which weights to put on and off. The cheaper spring type gauge such as this one is what I have in the range bag: https://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24585/catid/30/The_Tru_Weight_Trigger_Tension_Scale Tru-Weight Trigger Tension Scale sells for $26.95. RCBS and Timney sells exactly the same for a little more.

Hi ltdmstr, No, these dimensions I suggested will work for any link size that you use. Although, I have never used a Wilson link #1 for any of my builds. I tell my staff that it would be better to err on having the barrel set too high and have to use a longer link, than to have it set too low. The high and low setting refers to the alignment of the firing pin hole to the center of the chamber/bore. Of course, we always strive to have perfect alignment. That is why I have never used a #1 link.

Hi Bong, Yes, I did fit your barrel to Ed Brown and Schuemann instruction. The link I used was a Wilson #3.

Hello Bong, Well, as the Jedimaster Brian Enos himself said barrel fitting is a bit of art and a bit of science. My best description of Jerry's style of fitting the lower lug is "old school". During that time, they probably believed the longer the flat, the better for accuracy. Looking at the picture's in his first volume, the flat is about 0.250 in. long, and he overcuts the vertical stop point of the slide stop. Also, there is a sharp corner in the front, and he says to elongate the link hole slightly to allow the slide stop pin swing by. The lug will also contact the slide stop pin at point A, which will cause peening and metal displacement which will eventually cause binding. The biggest problem of overcutting the lug where the slide stop pin stops is that the link hole will have to be elongated, just like for the sharp corner in the front. This could cause timing problems which will cause premature wear on the upper locking lugs. I have Ed Brown's manual and I read Schuemann's barrel fitting instructions. I believe in their principles of barrel fitting coz I know they work and will last a long time. I have NOT done anything like Jerry's instructions; and based on experience, his technique will cause more problems in the long run.

Thanks guys, I will share your views with the shooter when he gets back from an overseas match.

Thanks for sharing your experiences guys! I appreciate any info on this. I knew this wasn't an isolated case, and that top shooters share common techniques and problems.

He's been all over the world in World Shoots. What is not surprising at is that this problem has been encountered by a lot of top shooters worldwide, So we gunsmiths can only do so much to the equipment, and ultimately the shooter has to do some adjustments.

Thanks for sharing Mat, this does make more sense. I suggested the following: 1. Use a very light trigger such as STI carbon fiber with titanium bow. 2. Fit it a little on the tight side. No up and down play. This increases friction between frame and trigger. 3. Bend middle finger forward to increase trigger tension. This will increase overall trigger pull.. 4. Increase trigger slack by not bending the front tab too much. Ltdmstr, remember, I cannot reproduce his feat no matter how fast I double tap his gun. His shooting style is unconventional.

I heard this is becoming more common as a shooter reaches a certain level of speed. Just like trigger freezing on a shotgun or rifle, You can release and pull the trigger faster than the cycling of the bolt. So you go beyond the limit of the equipment.

Haha! Oh well, there is always a limit on the equipment.

In my opinion, a 9mm doesn't need this option. A bull barrel soaks up recoil energy enough to use a 12 lb. recoil spring or less, and even then, recoil is very light and smooth. Based on the description, it uses a standard guide rod, but a short reverse plug. Recoil spring needs to be cut.

Update: We changed H/S/D set to a new Extreme Engineering set. We bent the middle finger for more tension. We also tried to increase the slack by readjusting the front tab. We even tried a new sear spring. He can still do it, both statically and actual firing. Once going full auto. This has led me to conclude that it's the shooter, not the gun. What Powder Finger said about floating the trigger is similar to bump firing: the forward impact of the slide causes the finger to tap the sear, causing either a halfcock or full auto. Remember, he can replicate this on other guns with his static test. Also, when the slide is moving forward, the disconnector is down and not connected to the sear. So when the slide slams forward, the disco moves up instantly, allowing the trigger to contact the sear. That is the only time his finger can tap the sear. So, his shooting technique needs to be changed.

No, it is not. When slide is just out of battery, sear is fully disconnected. Powder Finger, you may be on to something here. Will give it a try.

Not too light on the middle leg. This is a single stack gun. Please note that he only goes halfcock on really close targets (hoses it) and it happens only a few times.

Hello, a customer of mine has a unique problem. When he shoots a fast double tap, sometimes the hammer goes halfcock. I checked the hammer/sear engagement. 0.020 in hammer hook height, 2/3 sear engagement. Neutral contact. 2 lb. trigger pull. Mainspring is ISMI 17 lb. There is enough slack and a little overtravel. Hammer/sear/disco set is Extreme Engineering Round style. EGW sear spring. SVI trigger. Gun is STI single stack Cal. 40 with tungsten sleeved bull barrel. 12 lb. recoil spring. He could replicate it happening in my shop. He rests lightly, NOT PRESS, his finger on the trigger and releases the slide from the locked open position. It goes halfcock sometimes. If I do not touch the trigger, or if I fully press the trigger and release the slide, the hammer would NOT halfcock. I fired his gun slow and fast, but I could not duplicate his halfcock. On other words, his gun and trigger work is sound for us ordinary shooters. I then got other pistols in my shop, a single stack 40 and an STI hi-cap 40 with 2.5 lb. trigger pulls, and we were able to replicate it using his static test of resting finger on trigger and releasing slide. I then thought that his static test would cause "normal" guns (unless the trigger pull is really heavy) to go halfcock. Has anyone experienced this, and if so, what did you do to prevent this halfcocking from happening? I have been thinking about this for 2 days now, and I just can't figure out how to help him.

Craytex, 600-1200 fine sandpaper, and felt cones/cylinders with polishing compound. You can buy Craytex polishing cones/cylinders, and felt cones/cylinders from Otto Frei. Don't forget the matching mandrels. Polishing compounds from Brownells.

Looking at the picture of the DAA Aimpoint H1 Micro sight mount in their website, it appears to be mounted at a 1* angle. Some imported mounts may need to be mounted at an angle. I remember a Rescomp Aimpoint Comp mount (South Africa) that needed to be mounted at an angle back in the 90's. I hope the scope mount comes with instructions.

Clearance is 0.003 in. But after breaking in, clearance became smaller. So, I need to Dremel the slide with a sander again to increase clearance. I've seen pics of ribs shearing off in this forum. As the hood wears, slide will contact rib. Rib isn't strong enough to take that pounding.