njl

I've been having problems again the past few reloading sessions with the primer slide not quite coming back far enough to pick up primers (far enough, that from my angle, it looks like it came back all the way, but just barely didn't). After taking the priming system apart and cleaning it, and seeing that I have unimpeded smooth travel of the slide, I finally decided to try bending the op-rod at the lower bend to give the primer slide a bit more of a push. I think that may have done it, as I was able to load 100 rounds after that without any primer pickup failures. Is there a recommended geometry for the angles on the op-rod...and what's the best way to bend it if you don't have a bench vise?

There are discount codes for ibeji?

I have a real hard time believing that the bullets are sized to .356 and the crimp is at .379-.380, and you're making that deep an impression on them. Regardless, I'd suggest backing off on the crimp until you're no longer making such a clearly visible crimp ring on the bullet.

That makes a huge difference. You're basically shooting the pins off a "rail" vs a several foot deep table. I've done both...and for the deep tables, you want heavy bullets. For a rail, anything that'll more than knock them over should be fine as long as the pins are reasonably fresh. After a lot of abuse, they can get all warty and heavy, and those don't roll too well.

By "bulking it up", I assume you mean each time powder is poured into the hopper and then back into the jug, it could be getting "pulverized" and made more dense. If that was going on, I'd be reading heavier, not lighter on "same volume" charges from one session to the next. I've always thought it was "best practice" to not leave powder in the hopper long term (because in the unsealed hopper it can pick up moisture from the environment, and because it's much easier to lose track of what powder is in the hopper if it was poured in days/weeks ago), so I've always filled the hopper when I'm going to load, and poured it back into the bottle/jug when I'm done (unless I'm just taking a short break and know I'll be loading more the same day).

Ah...there was some military headstamp brass in those first 50, and at least one that had apparently not had the crimp removed. i.e. I could feel seating the primer was much rougher than normal. I stop when that happens, check the case head, and make sure the primer really is fully seated, before charging such a case. I used to do 10 cases (the math is easier), but cut back to 5 years ago.

I've been loading on this RL550B for about 10 years now, and just had two strange things happen. First (and this is pretty minor), I'll typically load the same thing for a while (right now, its 147gr H&S 9mm). Each session, when I'm done, I empty the powder measure by dumping it back into the jug and manually cycling the powder bar a couple of times to make sure it's really empty. At the start of a new session, I'll fill the hopper, give it a few taps at the top with the funnel I use, then cycle the handle around 10 times before filling 5 "powder measuring cases" to be weighed to check my powder bar calibration. If nothing has changed (same load, same powder, nobody's messed with the press in my absence), I shouldn't have to adjust anything...but I still check calibration...and sometimes I find it's drifted. Today it was averaging 3.16gr Promo instead of the desired 3.26gr. So, I turned the adjustment just a bit, and got it back to 3.26gr. I realize I could be touching/changing the powder bar adjustment when I empty the hopper, but I really don't think I am. Second (much bigger issue), about 50rds into loading this evening, the primer slide stopped picking up primers. On closer examination, the primer cup was binding on the magazine housing. I loosened things, trying to readjust it, and found I couldn't fix it by just adjusting the primer housing positioning. So I removed the housing and the slide, put them together in my hands, and found it just wouldn't fit. Apparently, the primer seating cup was canted. It took a couple of tries disassembling/reassembling the primer slide to get it back together such that it would enter the housing without touching the side of the housing. To me, it actually still looks just a little canted, but apparently not enough to interfere.

Waiting for JMorris to post a video of a home built automated press. You know he’s got to have done it. [emoji3]

Jacketed. Don't take this the wrong way, but either your communication skills suck, or please stop reloading before you blow something up. You come across sounding like an idiot and are either trolling or have done none of the basic research you should have done before you started making ammo.

Use the starting loads for 125gr SIE FMJ. Work up from those.

I like some of their bullets, but have found their pricing to be uncompetitive.

AMERC goes without saying. Anyone who’s been around a while knows that’s crap brass. Even when factory new, it’s crap ammo.

It depends on a few things. If you’re using long (heavy) bullets, some headstamps don’t seem to be compatible and tend to bulge badly (Aguila and CBC). Some have crimped pockets that will need special attention on the first reload. Some are copper/brass plated steel and should not be reloaded.

H&S Bullets (though I haven’t ordered yet since their new casting machine came in).

I used to when I was shooting a regular match at an indoor range that allowed us to pick up our brass at the end of the night. I haven't for years, just because it's not been necessary. It was a bit of a PITA.

This may seem like a stupid question, but I'm a little confused about make-up shots on unlimited scoring scenario stages. Say a stage procedure requires a certain number of shots to be fired at certain targets, from certain positions, possibly even certain ways (SHO or WHO). With unlimited scoring, as long as the required shots are fired the required way, additional [make-up] shots can be fired freestyle. At least that's one thing I learned while shooting my very first match. At that match, we had a stage that required engaging a target SHO while dragging a dummy with our weak hand. I was confused when I saw other shooters shoot that target twice SHO, and then additional shots two handed after dropping the dummy. Another stage required targets to be engaged from certain positions while retreating, and it was declared during our walk-through that as long as we fired those "required shots from the required positions" we could also fire "make-up" shots from close up before beginning the retreat, ensuring that we got the required number of good hits...the required shots didn't even have to hit the targets, because if you fired enough shots close up, you got all your required hits before getting to where the required shots were to be fired from. So, the question is, what rules apply to make-up shots? If a target has to be shot from a certain position (either in the open or a position of cover), can make-up shots be fired from "anywhere" the stage doesn't prohibit the shooter from being [before and/or after the required shots are fired]? If cover is available, does 3.5.2 apply to make-up shots? If not, other than time, what stops a shooter from charging the target(s) and firing make-ups from nearly contact range after (or even before) firing required shots?

If you want 147 FP coated, have a look at H&S Bullets. I've shot several thousand of their 147gr FP coated (they're typically more like 149gr) and been happy with them. AFAIK, they did just move to a new casting machine (and molds), so I don't know if there's a change to their 147 FP NLG bullet...but I'll find out next order. Though I have some Titegroup, I've only loaded the H&S using Universal (3.4gr) and Promo (3.2gr). Oh...and someone else mentioned this a page or a few ago...but watch out for certain headstamps. Some are pretty much guaranteed to "muffin top" with 147gr bullets producing rounds that won't even chamber in a Glock (reputed to have pretty loose chambers). I had a handful of case gauge rejects that I'd set aside at the loading bench, and the other weekend decided to go shoot those while doing some practice. I knew they wouldn't gauge, wouldn't use them at a match, but figured they'd probably still shoot. One of the first ones locked my G34 slide up not quite in battery. I had to put the nose of the slide against a shooting bench and slap the butt to get it unlocked. The rest got disassembled. I won't even try loading 147s in Aguila and CBC brass. Those are fine for 124s...but not 147s.

It'll be interesting to see what sort of luck you have with those. I've loaded Precision 147s (older coating) without any trouble other than more smoke than I'd like. I stopped buying Xtreme 147gr RN because they tumbled from some of my Glocks, and I never could figure out why. I tried driving them faster, made sure I wasn't "crimping into them", etc. I've used several other brands of coated 147 and haven't seen any of them tumble.

Has anyone mentioned yet that Precision’s web site has for as long as I can remember recommend against using their bullets with titegroup? It may be burning hot enough to compromise the coating. https://precisionbullets.com/2017/11/14/reloading-powders/

The feel when this happens on a RL550 (or I assume any press that seats primers at the tail end of the up-stroke) is like when you run into a crimped primer pocket that won't accept a primer. I still can't see how anyone would miss this and just keep on loading. You're basically "short stroking" the primer seating part of the up-stroke, because with a primer in the pocket, and another in the primer slide, you can't lower the ram "all the way".

Primer suck back was my first thought too, but the feel is so different when it happens, I can’t see how anyone wouldn’t notice, stop, and deal with the “problem” rather than just move on with the spent primer pressed back into the case by a new primer.

How would you do that? To deprime, you have to go through the flash hole, so if it had been plugged, it won’t be after depriming. I’m curious about One Shot or other case lube too. I had a couple rounds do the same thing years ago. It was the first/last time I used One Shot.

Everything depends. Primers: When on sale, S&B can be had for $20/1000. I don’t think you can do better than that. Powder: All depends on what powder you like and what cartridges you’re loading. Bullets: you looking for jacketed (rozedist.com or maybe Everglades Ammo or TJ Conevera, depending on what you’re looking for). For coated, google site:glock talk.com njl coated bullet sources Brass: Price depends quite a bit on caliber. I doubt you can beat the classifieds here on once fired.

Maybe the difference is more noticeable in larger calibers, but in 9mm, with 147gr bullets, I've found that I really can't tell the difference between loads to the same velocity using fast (Promo) and medium (Universal) powders.

Never heard of IMI (that's Israeli) using stepped brass. You're probably confusing them with IMT. As for MaxxTech, some of theirs appears to be nickel plated steel.