robertg5322

Got two matches on the SS Minor gun. Nice to have the extra two rounds, but I need to concentrate more on getting A hits. I'm getting killed on lost points. It is fun to shoot though.

Free stuff is always cool. Caspian makes good stuff too. I went with STI slides primarily based on price; I could get one with Bomar cuts and no front serrations for about $30.00 less than any other at Brownells. Question; Since you already have a 9mm 1911, why are you building another one? Why not make a .40 S&W gun for diversity's sake if nothing else? I have one in each caliber, and once you get the .40 feeding issues sorted out, they're nice shooters. Good luck with your project. Go slow, use the inter webs and you should have no problem. Other than a couple of specialty files (one for barrel lugs and one for slide rails) and a trigger track stone, I didn't have to buy any special tools. If you go with the Kart Easy Fit barrel and bushing kit, most of the tools required to fit and check fit are included. And Kart makes really good stuff.

I don't have a Trojan, but here's what I had to do to get the Kimber I converted to .40S&W to work. Round edges on chamber (do nothing more than break the sharp edges, DO NOT DO ANYTHING NEAR WHAT WOULD BE CONSIDERED THROATING). Install EGW higher mag catch. After this, I had to adjust every magazine basepad so they'd seat. No problem on the Wilson (1), Checkmate (1) and Tripp (2) mags as the base pad is plastic, but the Mec Gar and Metalform (5 and 1 respectively) were steel, and the Metalform is some sort of super hardened steel alloy that requires a tungsten drill bit to drill for basepad screws, which required judicious use of a Dremel. I then had to recontour the feed ramp, don't attempt this if you're not willing to trash a barrel (cause you just may trash a barrel, though I didn't) to get the rounds to slide into the chamber without seeming to stop at the point just before entering the chamber. After this, I have zero issues with nosedives or any other feed issues. I do have issues with the MecGar mag followers, they seem to have developed a habit of jamming themselves over the mag catch and between the breech and feed ramp. I'm replacing them with Tripp followers, which should fix this issue. I also had an issue with the Wilson magazine; it was a 10mm mag, which is what Wilson .40S&W mags are (no spacer in back) feeding reliably. I had to make a spacer (stainless steel Unistrut works perfectly) and replace guts with Tripp units. It now works perfectly, but only holds 8 rounds vs. 9, but 9 rounds that jam are a lot less useful than 8 that work perfectly. After all this, the gun runs smooth and trouble free. Not sure why .40S&W is so difficult to get to work in a 1911, but it is. I envy those who get Trojans that work out of the box.

You can but you'll be fighting to get it to work reliably. Proper solution is to replace barrel and slide. Also have frame cut for ramped barrel. But you'll find yourself into the gun for about $500.00 or more, not including the cost of the gun. With this logic, a Trojan seems like a bargain. And you'll have someone to blame if it doesn't work (and someone to send it back to to get it to work) where if you add the barrel, slide and all other requirements it'll be you who will be doing the customer service work. I know cause I did it. Would I do it again, maybe. I had the barrel and bushing so that saved me about $220.00, plus I had an old Kimber laying around doing nothing. But it'd be so much easier to just buy a Trojan and be done with it.

Finally finished the gun. EGW magwell, standard recoil guide and cap, wood grips with skateboard tape, .1" front sight and Metalform mags with plastic base comes in at 41.6 oz. Tried to clean up trigger, nothing left on sear to polish. Used Cylinder and Slide drop in kit (not a drop in by the way), and with minimal polishing, 3lb 2oz trigger with no creep and super nice reset. Required major fitting of Springfield thumb safety, kind of a pain but it now works. I predict a new trigger at some point, the original one is loose in the track. But for now it's time to shoot it. Pics later, but picture Beer Baron's with sandpaper covered grips and you have a good visual.

I replace my mainsprings with 17 lb units; the give nice light trigger with 100% reliability. I also like the EGW magwell/MSH unit, since I"m replacing all the parts, I may as well throw in the $2.50 mainspring cap and be totally standard parts on gun.

It can be tossed and replaced by a standard MSH, yes.

ILS slides in and out like normal. Uses different internals and spring I think. I hate non-standard components. Makes tuning a pain.

Once I get the msh and magwell I'll be ablle to tune the trigger (stupid Springfield ILS locking system makes swapping mainsprings impossible), then sight it in. Also waiting on Dawson .10 front sight. Also have to dehorn the rear sight, why they make that thing so sharp is beyond me. Corners could slice a forearm open. I am looking forward to finishing it and shooting it. Once it's done I'll weigh it and post results.

You could have the slide tri-topped, that would remove some weight. Kind of cool looking as well. Not cheap though. I'm trying to keep the cost of this gun reasonable, 9mm Springfields are pricey to start with, especially here in California.

Sounds like we're going to have identical guns.

I can't imagine saving more than a GRAIN or two between Novak and Bomar sights. You probably save as much going from the stock .120" width front sight to a .09" fiber optic unit. Worth it if you want a Novak (I dont) or .09" width fiber optic sight (I do), but not making any significant difference in weight. Not worth the hassle of not being able to adjust them if you ask me (just one man's opinion). Like I said, I think the FLGR is an anchor on these guns. Swap out for a GI model or the Briley aluminum version (no idea which of these is lighter, though the Briley will make your wallet slightly lighter than a $6.00 GI guiderod). Wood grips are lighter than G10 or VZ from what I've read, especially since Hogue now appears to hollow them out for you. I used smooth grips with custom cut (by me) grip tape on them. Super tacky; the good definition of tacky, not gauche (especially when you put a strip on the front strap if it's not checkered), super cheap and don't look bad either. I weighed mine with GI guide rod installed, Hogue smooth wood grips with skate tape installed, and Ed Brown magwell/MSH borrowed from my .40 1911. Came to 41.6 oz. with empty Metalform magazine with plastic base. I also believe Dawson's aluminum base pads probably add some weight over the plastic one available from Tripp or Metalform, though I don't have one to weigh. Based on that, I ordered the EGW magwell (same design as Ed Brown but about $30.00 cheaper). When it gets here, I'll install it and see how it comes out, though I expect to be at about 41.6 oz. Reason for not using Dawson aluminum MSH/Magwell; I like to keep the from of the mag well open so I can use the magazine I"m about to insert to strip a stuck magazine from the gun when they don't drop free (not too common, but when it happens, I seem to automatically swipe it free with the mag in my hand awaiting insertion). Can't do that with the Dawson. Pity, I like the Dawson unit.

Not sure if a Bomar adds or subtracts weight. Kind of moot, gun comes with S/A's version of a Bomar, can't make a Novak work if I wanted to without some welding. Ditching the FLGR and using a GI unit, and hollowed out wood grips with sandpaper gets me where I need to be. With EGW magwell, i have about 1 oz to spare.

I've had good luck with Kart Easy Fit barrel/bushing sets in two .40 S&W guns; one a Caspian High Cap and the other a Kimbrr I tur ned into a .40 from a .45.

Got hollowed out Hogue wood grips (they come from Hogue like that now, nice) with skate tape on them, GI guide rod and Ed Brown steel magwell/MSH, and Metalform magazines with plastic basepads and it comes in at 41.6 oz. Only thing left is lightening and smoothing the trigger and sighting it in. Another week and it'll be on the range. Thanks all for the info. Bob

Grips are plain wood Hogues with grip tape over them. Apparently Hogue now hollows them out for you. Your Dawson pads aluminum or plastic? I have Metalform mags with plastic pads. Once I have the magwell (waited on ordering it until I could test gun weight with magwell from my .40 gun) installed, I'll weigh it again to be sure. GI guide rod is hollow, which helps too.

GI guide rod and cap, Wilson Combat magwell and MSH (stainless), wood grips with skate tape on them and skate tap on front strap, Metalform 10 round mag with plastic base, total weight 411.6 oz. Calibrated the scale, it was right on. Weight of .40 S&W Kimber frame with STI slide, set up exactly the same came in at 41.3 oz. That's what it weighed at Golden Bullet Regional match earlier this year so I am feeling like I can trust the scale. Only difference other than STI slide scallops vs. Springfield slide scallops was new Hogue grips on 9mm were hollowed out in rear, grips on Kimber were solid. I believe replacing the FLGR with the GI unit makes a considerable difference.

My plan is to weigh it with GI rod S/A magwell and Hogue smooth wood flat bottom grips with skate tape on them. If it comes in <43 os with Metalform 10 round mag I'll call it done.

Picked it up today. I'll weigh it and see if S/A is honest with their 41 oz. claim. Also have traditional short GI guide rod and cap and S/A magwell/MSH in steel on another gun. I'll install this on it to see where I'm at. Thanks for the help. Bob

Thanks for the info.

Gracias, so it seems Dawson Ice with aluminum MSH is required. I'll weigh the thing when I get to to be sure. Again, thanks. Bob

Anyone know the actual weight of a Springfield Armory Loaded 9mm 1911 Target (adjustable sights, fine slide serrations)? Got one at the gun shop for the 10 day wait (thank you Kalifornia, I feel soooo much safer now that I've had 10 days to cool down), getting parts ordered and wondering if a standard Wilson Combat steel MSH/magwell (I have one laying around, so it's a free option) will take the gun over the 43 oz USPSA Single Stack class weight limit and force me to get a Dawson Precision aluminum MSH/Magwell. Of note, I am removing the Springfield Armory ILS fustercluck MSH one way or the other. Also replacing the FLGR with a traditional guide rod and spring cap. Other than that, no other upgrades that will affect weight. Thanks in advance. Bob

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/717654/kimber-thumb-safety-1911-ambidextrous-stainless-steel Yeah, I know it's a Kimber so it's inferior and MIM and any number of other issues. But the right side safety is retained by a groove in the extended (included) hammer pin, it can't work loose. Doesn't require relieving behind the grip panel for that dog-leg thing. Not very wide (especially the right side paddle), but I've never had an issue with it. Have them on all my guns except the Caspian High Cap, they work and none have broken.

All of this begs the question; where does a little arab kid get an Airsoft gun? Amazon?

Maybe (likely), but I can't imagine an Airsoft holding up long in that environment.