High Lord Gomer
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Everything posted by High Lord Gomer
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Not sure but after a few light strikes in several M&Ps, they all get the extra power striker springs. Don't even notice them once you put the Apex sear in. http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=1022
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furthest pistol shot you've attempted and made
High Lord Gomer replied to cletus9mm's topic in Skills
Have you ever hit them? -
What are the limits of a fault line?
High Lord Gomer replied to Poppa Bear's topic in USPSA/IPSC Rules
We sometimes have fault line intersections where one extends past the other. Our fault lines are 2x4s ripped in half lengthwise and most are 8' long. Since not all shooting areas end up being some multiple of 8 feet we sometimes end up with part of the fault line extending past the other. I have always interpreted it to be that anything beyond the intersection of fault lines (including the fault lines themselves) are out of bounds. -
Interesting question. I searched the rules for "hard cover" and "activat" and could find nothing that would prohibit this. Normally any target that is intended to be shot is also a scoring target, though. That does also bring up the possibility of having to shoot a string to activate a target..that could make things tough.
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south east 3-gun match this winter?
High Lord Gomer replied to Petshopshooter's topic in Travel, Locations, Ranges, etc.
Pinetucky Gun Club near Augusta, GA will have one the 3rd Saturday in March. 2 long, higher round count stages with all 3 guns and 2 shotgun only stages (until we can get more bays built). -
I want to party with you, cowboy!
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Without an activator to start it, no real way to make it an optional target since it won't disappear. If you do want to give options, I would suggest giving someone the choice of an long or tight shot near a no-shoot versus a closer/easier shot that they have to travel farther to make.
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I have home made flashing targets that have a 6" or 8" plate at the bottom of a piece of 5/8" threaded rod. A hit to the plate will swing it enough to show the full card that is behind. A hit to the threaded rod will cause it to wiggle and swing slightly. I warn people ahead of time and do not call those as hits. It is amazing how many people show up with 50 (or even 25) yard zeroes and don't know why they are hitting way above the plate I have hung at 100 yards. My threaded rod gets hit almost as much as the plate.
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It would take more than a chime to set you guys straight...I'm thinking more like a gong! Dewey and Mark are designing the 2 full 3-gun stages so I'll let them disclose their round counts. I cna say there will be less than 80 rounds of rifle, less than 80 rounds of pistol, and close to 50 rounds of birdshot. No slugs this time and no steel targets for rifle so if you have steel core rifle ammo you need to burn, this would be a good day to do it. Sign up at 8:30, shooters meeting at 8:45, and start shooting at 9:00. We plan to be done around 2:00 this time so we aren't making any arrangements for lunch. If you are slender like me and need to eat before 2:00, bring some snacks. $20 entry, $10 for Pinetucky members and active duty military.
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It is more likely that the sear is not engaging (or failing to hold the striker rearward) than it would be for the striker to fail to release the sear. The click should not happen as the sear engages (grabs) the striker but rather as you are pulling the slide back the lower portion of the striker will move across the top of the sear and you should hear it click once it gets past the sear and the sear pops back up. Once that has happened can you try very slowly letting the slide back forward and see if you can hear/feel the striker slip past the sear? If you do that slowly enough the sear might be able to hold the striker enough to successfully dry-fire. Another thing to check would be with the slide off does the sear drop down completely to release the striker when you pull the trigger?
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What sort of symptoms? Does it work when dry-fired but just not go far enough forward to ignite the primer? Does the sear not catch the striker when the slide is racked? Does the sear not release the striker when the trigger is pulled? Before you put the plastic back on the slide can you push the striker far enough forward to have the firing pin exposed in the breach face? (I know..all questions and no answers )
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Must......re......sist! LOL!
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I just tried 4 loads of 250 Lead truncated cone semi wadcutter (not sure the manufacturer as I got them from a friend of a friend of...). Loaded them at 1.120 and shot out of a 4" 625.
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Springs are cheap, worth doing every year or two. Failure to extract...I have been having them lately and will be sending mine to Apex for their Failure Resistant Extractors. I have tried to get mine out and failed miserably. If it was just a failure to feed the chamber would have been empty. If it did chamber a round but the trigger did nothing, that could be a failure of the sear to reset. Does yours have the large or small sear return spring? I had many instances of failures to reset before I switched all of mine out to the newer, larger sear return springs (actually have to swap out the sear housing blocks).
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With Apex sears, I don't notice the extra power striker springs. Since the stock sear does push the striker back more I can see where the trigger pull would be heavier with an extra power striker spring. I consider the extra power striker spring, Apex sear, and Apex USB to be standard for all of my M&Ps.
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I have had it happen with 3 or 4 of the 8 M&Ps I've owned. The 45, the 9 compact, and one of the 40 FS guns I didn't have for too long but it has happened to most of the 5 that I have shot a fair bit.
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I use them in all of my M&Ps. Light strikes in most of them before, none after. http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=1022