mpom

Yeah, this is not rocket surgery Best to practice on spare plastic pieces. U practiced on magpul magazine clip on covers. Used masking tape to get straight edges. Do outlines first then fill in. If you go too fast tip cools off and impression is not deep enough. Need some ventilation or fumes will be inhaled. Have a brass brush handy to clean tip periodically so impressions remain sharp. Mark

Scrub the chamber and barrel well and look inside chamber, with barrel separated from receiver. See any burrs or deformities in chamber? Does chamber accept a shell fully? If not, either use the warranty or a gunsmith to clean up the chamber.

Winchester.

Weird. My 2.0 Compact sets off rifle primers w OEM striker and spring. Mark

Good to know, thanks for the update. If Remarms continues production, it probably makes sense to consider the VM as a viable option! Mark

Are they available, since Remington ceased to exist? I would think used ones are, but then again are parts available? Don't know if OP has one or is looking to get one.

It comes down to personal choice and responsibility. I don't appendix carry but the concept of a lighter, crisper trigger pull in a carry gun still applies. Having seen in a 2 day class many folks draw and holster from appendix carry, the muzzle did not cover their thighs or nut sack. Instructor had them lean upper torso back and bit and thrust hips forward on the reholster portion, with trigger finger safely away from trigger guard. Personally am comfortable w a 3.75 lbs pull on an Apexed M&P 2.0 compact.

If the Apex doesn't have the pre-travel that you like, why do you love it? Am confused. Mark

Disappointing S&W customer service did not send you a 10 degree striker, as they did for me when I asked for a spare. Not free but willing to accommodate. The chart weights are not accurate; my trigger pull weights on 2 1.0 and 1 2.0 M&Ps are in the 3.5 to 3.45 lbs. Perhaps the light polishing of sear surfaces and striker block engagement "bump" on the trigger bar had something to do with it. You can always try the unpainted Apex sear spring, even though Apex says it will not work, checking to see if you develope sear flutter or not. Sounds like you have the DCAEK, which I believe only comes w a purple, heavy duty sear spring. Pretty sure Apex will sell you an unpainted spring if you tell them you lost the one that came w the FSS kit Hope the incoming 10 degree striker provides the same trigger pull as your other 2.0s. Mark

I believe all 2.0 m&ps should have the 10 degree striker. Sounds like 1 of yours came w the 1.0 striker. Just call S&W customer service, they should one free. Get an extra for a spare, should one of the striker springs crap out. Mark

I have 2 w Apex and a friend has a Timney. Apex has the Glock type center lever in trigger face, Timney does not, hinges like OEM M&P, but very subtle. Apex have a bit of roll in the trigger pull, little to no overtravel, Timney has a crisper break and noticeable but not bad overtravel. Using factory springs Apex pull is around 3.5 lbs, Timney around 4. Mark

A solution for the OP is being discussed in a parallel thread, Timney Alpha Competition trigger for the M&P.

Have 3 M&Ps. all w Apex trigger components and all serve as home/self defense as well as competition firearms. All already at less than 4lbs and short reset, so will pass. No doubt this will be a great competition trigger but just too light for my needs. Am impressed there is no need for replacement of springs, but then again factory springs keep the Apex trigger pull lower than what is achieved w Apex springs. Price is less than Apex, so there is that. Mark

Can you add specifics such as either photos or links to who did the work? Thanks, Mark

Good info on rds pistol shooting if you look up Sage Dynamics and The Modern Samurai Project. This forum is geared towards competition applications, but the G43 is likely to be used for self defense, so check out those above. Learned quite a bit during a 2 day course w Jedlinski, often called Jedi. Mark

Hey Brandon, the instructions that are included in the box should give you a good idea of how to adjust the elevation and windage adjusters with the included tool, once you fire an initial group. Start at close range, say 25 feet then progress to maybe 25 yards to confirm, done. Read up on how to utilize a red dot, Scott Jedlinksi is a good source. Its all about target focus, NOT dot or front sight focus. Dim the red dot so you can clearly see it, but dont focus on it. Good luck and lets go Brandon! Mark

RSR is out of stock on the Othos xr12 pro, but they have the xtr12, Utas, much cheaper, but no magwell funnel, shorter handguard. lacks the lightening cuts. Mark

Don't own an electronic safe, but if worried about complexity, why not consider a Simplex locked handgun safe? No batteries, easy to open in dark. V line and Ft Knox are some brands that still make Simplex locked ones. Old school but very reliable. Mark

Apex claims their research, conducted years ago before there was a 2.0 series, showed that the relatively early dropping of the M&P barrel breech and slow rifling twist rate led to the poor accuracy people complained about. Their barrels have a longer bottom shelf that keeps breech level longer before dropping during slide movement to rear. As far as accuracy, 2.25" at 20 yards is not bad for a factory barrel, in my limited experience, which includes M&Ps and Glocks. I would not have bought an Apex barrel if my 1.0 5" achieved that. Would not be surprised if you could do better w either high end ammo such as Gold Dot or hand loads tuned to the Apex barrel. Mark

Can also use black two part epoxy, such as JB Weld or MarineTex. Should not melt if barrel/rib gets hot. Mark

What were the group sizes and at what distance? Were you shooting offhand or from a rest? Have you shot other pistols and obtained great accuracy? Not being critical, but makes sense to get a baseline of your shooting ability before passing judgement on the accuracy of the barrel, since the shooter is part of the equation, along w the ammo. Mark

You may have better luck getting info if the question is asked on the General Gunsmithing sub forum. A lot of the posters there are gunsmiths. Mark

Have been running a 930 for about 5 years, and the 940 appears to be a 930 with lots of parts either sourced or copies of Oregon 3G upgrades. The ONLY reason I went w the 930 is low cost compared to competition, but the 940 is close to the 1301, another gas operated SG. OP, check out the 930 threads on BE.com to get a background, as it seems the 940 likely has similar if not identical issues to the 930. It took me a year or two to get the springs balanced, sharp corners and loading port sorted out, but now it is a sewing machine. Will it last as long as a 1301? Not likely but I am not a high volume SG user. So if you like to tinker and have some mechanical skills, the 940 MIGHT be a good choice, but if you want reliability from the start, unfortunately would recommend a 1301 or a recoil operated SG such as Benelli or Stoeger. Sad that Mossberg could not work out the bugs in the 940. Mark

The gas port is on top of the barrel, the set screws on the bottom pull the gas block down, which usually eliminates gas leakage from barrel/gas block interface. A clamp on gas block self seals the gas port. A bit of leakage between gas tube and gas block is normal and expected, as mentioned above. Now some gas block use a cross pin to secure to barrel, just like the M16 you had, but you did not mention which gas block you have. Mark

Reminds me of H&K chamber, which has longitudinal grooves. Agree, look inside sizing die, should be a smooth cylinder, no grooves. Then look at the cases that have not been resized, as they may have those grooves already in the cases. Finally, ask your friend where those cases came from. Range pickup, fired in his weapon, purchased? Odds are once resized, those cases will function fine, but strongly recommend you use a case gauge. I case gauge routinely, saves headaches, especially during a match. Mark