Hannu

My score seems to be 98.3374% so it is slightly different than 98.87% calculated above. I mean, slightly

Shot today, 60 points 7.55 seconds, Open M. Classifier calculator says 99.33%.... Does anybody know, if this is what I should get ? If yes, I am gonna be very close to GM...

Non-ramped barrel ?

Shot this today. Open Master, 58 points 5.39 seconds hit factor 10.76

Couple weeks ago: 3.04 down 2, hit factor 9.2105, Open Master.

Did you feel that the left target was kind of a stretch to get to? See for yourself Looks like we shot exactly the same classifier with MarkCO

Shot it 3.68 down 4 yesterday, with Open.

Tom, thank you very much for awesome match ! You had ordered a nice weather too

AA #7 is definitely not good for 9mm Minor. In 9mm Major, it starts to shine when you put 10+ grains behind 124gr bullet. Every powder has its own range where it shines, AA #7 just is not for 9mm Minor. Silhouette is ok, but creates much higher pressure with 9mm Major loads. Like others said, with 9mm Minor go with the mainstream : Titegroup, Solo 1000 or AA #2. N320 is only expensive and hard to get. I have got best results with TG.

Actually, Matchmaster My bad, I meant it has 4.25" Trubor barrel.

Responding myself Brass new Starline, primer WSPM, bullet MG 124gr CMJ loaded to 1.17", AA #5 8,4 gr = PF 170 from STI Trubor 4.25" (without hybrid holes).

Anyone tried Accurate #5 for 9mm Major ? I got couple cans cheap and would now like to give it a try

Taisto, Isto or anyone who knows this : would you consider myself as US or Finnish shooter if I would decide to come ? It would be pretty fun to travel to Finland and meet Carl and other US shooters there

I was little disappointed about new Shortdot 1,1-8x FOV smaller than 1,1-4x and shape of FOV was not so nice. Fine thing is, they made the flashdot to 2. focal plane Hope production versions will be better. Anyone noticed Leupold 1,1-8x model ? Better FOV than Bender, nice scope otherwise too. But, so stupid 1. focal plane red dot and useless with anything more than 1,1x magnification What they have been smoking... If someone has a good contact to Leupold, please tell them to put the dot to 2. focal plane. They gonna have lots of more customers if they fix it. Do I have to stick with Z6i 1-6x24 LD-I forever, have already used it for four years now

Few loads developed for STI Matchmaster 4.25" barrel. COL always 1.175" Primer for AA #7 Federal 200, others Remington 5½ Brass brand new Starline MG 124gr CMJ HS-6 8,4 gr PF 169 Power Pistol 8,0 gr PF 168 AA #7 10,4 gr PF 170 MG 115gr JHP HS-6 9,2 gr PF 169 Power Pistol 8,5 gr PF 167 AA #7 11,2 gr PF 168 Clearly the flattest shooting load is 115gr JHP + AA #7

Right between my eyes : Mitsubishi Evo X and 9mm Major here I have found, people who use pretty fast powders (like 3N37, Longshot....) have issues with brass life. 9mm major, hybrid holes + fast powder = pressure level 60.000+ PSI easily (tested in pressure gun couple years ago). No 9mm brass will last that kind of beating. If you have solid barrel without holes and run more progressive powders like 3N38, HS-6, AA #7 etc your pressure level will not be much greater compared to .38 Super. Some powders like 3N38 are pretty bulky for 9mm and pain in the ass to reload, though. You have clearly better powder selection for .38 Super. Other thing is if your brass is first fired (factory ammo) in gun with loose chamber (pretty common thing in carry guns), your brass is never gonna last very long. I like 9mm Major, as I can buy factory ammo, shoot it for practice and save the brass. For match I use new Starline or Remington brass. I load my 9mm major brass ~10 times. I usually loose so many I do not have problems with brass life... I have shot with .38 SC. The biggest problem is brass availability - with 9mm you have Remington, Winchester, Magtech, Starline and many other you can load to major. With .38 SC, your options are more limited and there was time last year when Starline .38 SC brass just was not available. I just do not like rimmed .38 Super. I can get my mags work much easier with 9mm Major than rimmed .38 Super.

Mags are pretty often reason for that kind of malfunction. Exactly that will sometimes happen, if your mag lifts top round in wrong angle - base of extracting brass will hit top round somewhere too hard and become loose from extractor + reducing slide speed, empty brass will spin and remain so long inside it does not get away before slide goes back forward. Worst thing is, if you do not have spacers in mags + short ejector. Have seen that happen on high-speed camera shoot Long ejector will usually help, but not always. Take some video with high-speed camera if you are able to do that. To prevent malfunctions in the future Even if your mags are properly tuned as new, when you drop them several times freely from your gun there is a big possibility they are not properly tuned anymore... Just one thing, bad timing may cause just the same by reducing slide speed etc. Flexmoney had good points there earlier.

Make sure you can get LD-I reticle from where you are buying.

Sight radius is a huge factor. One rifle I built with Anschutz front sight, see photo below :

I prefer Jard over JP. You just can not get JP light enough, little less than 1 kilo. My rifle has 0,75 kilos and I think JP:s over 1 kilo is a bit too hard for precision shooting. Non-adjustable Jard is though horrible - loooots of creep and no feeling. You just squeeze, squeeze, squeeze... and at some point it goes bang I have installed about 200 Jard triggers to rifles. Problems so far : two times disconnector pin broke, only after few hundred shots. I think it must be some failure with the pin. My oldest Jard has been shot around 35k rounds, have adjusted it only twice - once when first installed and second time when changed from one lower receiver to another. With light trigger pull, you can bump trigger (and cause "bursts") so you do not know you are doing it Specially if your rifle is lightweight and does not have light moving parts and adjustable gas system. Last summer I test fired a S&W rifle, no other mods but Jard 1.5 lbs trigger and Zeiss 24x scope, no compensator at all, from sandbag rest. I just had to load 1 round at time to mag, because when I loaded 5 rounds and tried to squeeze trigger very carefully, there was always 2-3 empties in the air at the same time Nothing wrong with the gun, just loose grip.

Hi Carl ! It is nice to hear from you. Last couple of weeks here in Colorado have reminded me about Finland: lots of snow and pretty cold There are not so many shooting ranges available here, but have managed to find couple of places within reasonable drive. I described existing scope, it is in the photo and just what Carl said - Z6i with LD-I reticle. Paper target in the photo is ~10yd away. Note those metallic silhouette mount lines inside and outside FOV - they continue from the same place with 1x power. There is at least 1 pcs in US right now, because I took my scope with me Before anyone has time to ask, yes it is the same scope used by ERC2009 Open Division winner.

So, what is the best existing scope ? -True 1.0x power (so long the only one I have seen) -6x power -Dot reticle in rear focal plane = 1.2 moa - 7.0 moa -Bright illumination, 2-stage adjustment for it. -Small (thin) lines below and up from dot, can be used to holdover to 300 -Long (thin) lines to sides, easy to take lead -Lines are so thin you do not notice them in fast close range work -Can be used without turret caps, +/-15 clicks fast adjustment marks It is always faster to shoot with illumination. Yes you can make as good hit with black dot, but it is slower. All unnecessary stuff in reticle will make shooting slower. Just bright dot, and some holdover line if you want it. Sorry about being so lousy phographer... I can not get reticle illumination to the "film" but it is very bright in daylight, little brighter than CD-I.

If you are making slide from spare part, you can install slide racker this way : It will become little higher, at least with me it reduces the risk of slide racker hitting my thumb.

You can put the slide racker more forward and up than it is in previous photos. You need to be really careful then, though... Sorry, I have no photo.

For major - T2 For minor - T1