Hannu

Leupold VX-6 1-6x24 seemed to have nice optics, pretty decent FOV at low setting. But, Leupold guys told me no illuminated reticles... I gave them feedback, but they looked like I was an alien from space talking something "what the f**k you are talking about, we already have illuminated VX-R!" Yeah, right... March 1-10x has "illumination", they told me it was "redesigned to work in daylight" but it was not clearly visible even in pretty dark downstairs hall of Shot Show. I did not see anything that would beat Z6i, not even close. Edit: VX-6 1-6x seems to be available with illumination

Have to tune my 1911 single stack mags sometimes, but: I practice twice a day and when training reloads I throw full mags all round, so they get some abuse.

Lucky you, I have 180 degrees different experiences with small rifle primers about how consistent loads I can make. Anyway, earlier I was not talking about how they ignite etc, just how they work in reloading machines. I will never put Wolf primers in my Dillons or other priming tools anymore.

Put those Wolf primers to a dark place where nobody can not find them... And buy some good quality US stuff instead. I bet your priming problems will go to the same place with Wolf primers Broken indexer = often improper adjustment of shellplate, way too tight. I have loaded maybe 200k rounds with Dillon 650 machines and only broken part so far is indexer spring. I have never cleaned my Dillon 650, I just put more grease sometimes.

Noah, have you already tested ? If yes, how do you feel it ?

To put it short - please do not do it. Difference between Vit manual versus real life is often pretty big...

First, take trigger out if it is in your gun. Go to local Fastenal or something similar place (local Fastenal had these in stock) and buy small set screw for overtravel adjustment. Sorry I can not remember the size anymore Trigger group still in your hand, take 1/16" key and adjust sear engagement. Find "hammer fall point" first; hold trigger group with your other hand while simultaneously use that 1/16" key and turn lower adjustment screw clockwise. Make sure you point hammer to safe direction and do not let it drop free, shoot the hammer againts (for example) wooden reloading table like I do Turn the key slowly so you can determine hammer fall point accurately. After you know your hammer fall point, turn that screw 1/8 turns anti-clockwise. Then install overtravel screw. Clean threads (for example brake cleaner spray works) and put some red or green locktite to the threads, to make sure adjustment will not move. Adjust overtravel so, when you pull trigger to rear and simultaneously pull hammer back, you see just a little bit light between hammer and sear engagement points. How much is hard to say without seeing the trigger group, but you must have a small gap there. Adjust pull weight with upper screw to your favourite level and last check that the safety is still working. My AR-15 rifles (tested that setup in 4 different rifles) have been working with these settings and 1.6 lbs pull weight perfectly. Before shooting, dry fire, slam empty bolt forwards etc. to make sure your rifle works safely. To make it clear, I do not personally use AR Gold or any other US trigger. Some of our Finnish and US friends have already seen my favourite; slightly unusual prototypes, but more of that maybe later

My choice today; AR Gold. I can shoot 0.09 - 0.10 splits with it, so if you have to wait I would say you have darn fast finger Factory setting is pretty "conservative" and you have to tweak adjustments to make it really nice. Best thing is, you can make it nice without bending springs, polishing something etc Have been using almost all of those listed. Just can not live with non-adjustable triggers... They have never felt good. Jard has my second "shared first place" choice. 1.5 lbs 1-stage adjustable has nice weight and feel when set up right. JP feels like #¤%¤" when adjusted according to factory instructions I have never been able to set it up as light as I like. It can be set up for good feeling, but then you have to remember to change disconnector - otherwise you are gonna have bursts at some point. Geissele, so far what i have tested have heavy pre-travel and very light break point. If I shoot with 2-stage trigger, I want it to be just the opposite: light pre-travel and heavy break point - just like good 1911 trigger or AR Gold. Generally I would say, if you do not know how to set up a trigger, then do not do it Leave it to somebody how knows what he is doing.

Tate, it is naturally UP We tested couple different titanium alloys + couple of titanium carriers from other manufacturers, but it was not so great idea than we first thought.

You do not need rifle primer to ignite HS-6, I usually get lower deviation with regular pistol primer with HS-6. Bullet friction to brass has very big effect on what will be the velocity deviation and when you chrono definitely use only same brass. It means, same brand / lot but also you need to have brass that has been loaded for example 3 times - not so that some brass is loaded 2 times and some of the brass 8 times. It can have even bigger effect on velocities than brass brand. Other thing might be rough barrel bore. I have never got consistent velocities with my Schuemann barrel that has very rough bore. KKM with smooth bore shoots 10 shots of the same load with less than 20 fps max deviation when Schuemann has at least 2x more. My CED M2 only works reliably when screens are in a shadow. Direct sunlight from any direction - strange readings sometimes (like 300 fps off) and does not measure all bullets.

+1 to AR Gold. JP´s tend to burst when they are set up for nice trigger and disconnector gives up after few thousand rounds. New disconnector is only few bucks, but it is kinda "interesting" when burst happens in a match 1-stage lightweight Jard triggers tend to burst if grip is loose or trigger is not properly set up. Or if the rifle has been charged with safety on, which is pretty hard to trigger parts 2-stage triggers are usually "easier" about bursting, but instead of AR Gold those triggers have some disadvantages. Just my 2 cents

I load 4756 for 9mm Major, so it should not be too bad for .38 SC... I prefer 4756 over N105; smaller powder charge but flatter shooting gun. This experience is from 9mm Major, however. If you wanna try slow powders, try AA #7 - cheap, easy to load and gives more gas to your comp than N105 and 4756 combined

Wolff 9 lbs recoil + buffer and Wolff 16 lbs mainspring + fp stop plate cut to open easily, bare slight weight 10.5 oz - feels just how I like it with Zero 125gr JHP + Clays. Mainspring has only a little to do with trigger pull weight in single action guns. However, I think feel is more important than 0.5 lbs difference in weight. With single stack minor you can easily have 2 lbs trigger pull with very nice feeling. Last, but not least: let somebody who knows what he is doing tune your trigger

They make alucarrier with steel inserts in Finland

The dot is very precise in real life, but it is very hard to capture with camera - I have tried it too. In IPSC max range is 300 meters and targets pretty big - elevation correction is one of the smallest problems Better have less stuff in the FOV.

I do not use N105, it is a real pain in the ass to load (even worse than 3N38) but if you wanna try, for example: Federal 205 or Winchester SR primer, N105 8.0 grains, 124gr MG CMJ loaded to 1.17". It is probably too light around PF 150-155 out of 5", but better start safely

AA #5 works for Openguns... I would use something else for .45 acp; for 230gr lead something like Hodgdon Clays. Or If you use AA powders, get Solo 1000 for .45 acp.

Watch out with N350 and 3N37... So many slides have been cracked with those powders and high pressures they create I would only use Vihtavuori 3N38 or N105 for 9mm Major.

Listen to Benny and take your gun to somebody (like Benny) who knows what "timing" means and can see what is going on. If you have a bad timing problem and just continue shooting it, you will break lots of expensive parts after some time

Yeah titanium comp really makes a huge difference on balancing. I am kinda addicted to titanium comps... In my experience, titanium will outlast steel. I have couple of titanium comps with 10-25k through them, and they show virtually no signs of wear. Steel comp with 10k+ usually begins to look like "used"... And now we are completely forgetting the thing, if titanium comp is not designed just right they have tendency to crack easier. I too was not satisfied with Bedell comp, but RHF large titanium comp works just perfect for me. However, if titanium comp will eat your tools, why would it wear out sooner ?

I like T2 noticeably better for 9mm Major than T1. You can have your factory gun with T1 or T2, just tell STI what you want.

Wilson ETM + Dawson pad.

Easier fitting but poor bore quality = Schuemann Better bore quality but takes more time to fit properly = KKM This opinion is based on new barrels I have seen / fitted within last 1 year.

Why not to use Autocomp ?

My carry gun has .45 ACP 4.3" AET barrel. Does not like lead at all, cast bullets go around IPSC target @25 Maybe AET rifling, or maybe very rough barrel bore. I can not say which one is the big problem in this case, shoots minute-of-bad-guy with jacketed and that is allright for that barrel. But, it does not shoot even nearly as good as my .45 caliber Kart and Bar-Sto barrels no matter what load.