Graham Smith

The real key is layers. Jockey has some lightweight sport performance crew t-shirts (check their web site for frequent sales) that are good year round. When it gets cooler, put a cotton long sleeve t-shirt over that.

The only brass catcher I've ever used that works without becoming a bother is the ground.

SmartWool isn't your dads wool drawers. These things are itch free, extremely light, and breath. I used an upper and lower as a base layer in Nov when the temps when from the low 40's to the low 70's during one 10hr period. Wore them for 4 straight days and they never got uncomfortable or smelly.

This may or may not work for you... SmartWool makes some very light weight base layer shirts that have worked quite well for me. I couldn't recall the exact name so took a minute to look it up: http://www.smartwool.com/clothing/baselayers/mens-nts-light-195-zip-t.html

I know that some may disagree, but I think that in the long run it's a false economy starting with anything other that good quality virgin brass for precision loading. Loading for 3-gun or sport or anything else may be a different story. But for high quality loads for bolt gun target shooting you are better off if you use brass that's never been shot from another gun. That way you "fireform"* it to your gun from the start without having to overwork it by full length sizing it back down before loading. It's also less work and eliminates the need of some additional equipment when you are first starting up. *And, yes, I suppose that it's technically not fireforming, but that term is so commonly used for this that it's hard not to use the term.

Well, I asked to buy a new front plate and they sent me a whole new alarm. No charge.

While acting as an MD, I had a real struggle with classifiers. Our ranges aren't flat and are rocky so most stages have to be rather flexible in how they get setup. Of course you can't do that with a classifier. That meant that we were pretty much limited to one bay where we could put classifiers and there were a number that wouldn't work properly so they weren't used. Granted, if someone were to break out a transit and laser ruler our classifiers might be off a bit, but it's not for lack of trying to get them right. The notion that a MD would intentionally skew a classifier is horrendous.

I use an EGW undersized die and all my finished rounds drop easily into a Wilson checker which is tighter than my chamber. I run into more problems trying to use plated than jacketed bullets. The most when I experimented with some 135gr plated bullets - which may have to do with seating depth. I've often considered experimenting with a slightly longer OAL to see if that would help or not. I've also talked with Arredondo, Dawson, and Taylor about capacity and all have said the same thing - it mainly depends on your mags. Glock has made minor changes throughout the years and even within generations, there can be some differences in the mags. It's really an academic point since planning on shooting a stage to the capacity of your mag is seldom a good idea in Limited - there's another whole thread on this. FWIW, I really like the Arredondo design. The plastic takes a beating and the mags are simple to take apart and assemble at the range. Just out of interest, I'm trying out the Taran Tactical extensions this year. They seem to have just a fraction of a fraction of an inch more space in them, such that when I get that 20th round in, there's still a bit of play left in the spring.

First off, I never load to 20 rounds because that puts way too much pressure on the mag when you seat it with the slide closed. It can actually bulge the sides just a tad. Second, I've found that some handloads tend to hang up more readily than others. I'm not exactly sure what creates the problem, but perhaps someone else has.

It's really easy to get carried away when it comes to reloading, particularly if the term "precision" is involved. I'd really suggest you avoid the mistake a lot of people make by saving up their Federal brass. It's a bit soft and doesn't reload that well for more than a few cycles. You are often better off cost wise by starting with new brass. Winchester brass is reasonably priced and works quite well, Lapua is better but more expensive. You can load either out of the box in your bolt gun and then just neck size it after that. After enough cycles, you will probably want to anneal the necks but that's quite a while down the road. You might also want to head over to the Sniper Central Forum and read the debates going on there between guys who take the term precision really seriously and are willing to spend a great deal of time and money to achieve it. Lots of good information if you can scale it down to a beginners level.

I fear that this cannot help but turn into a discussion. . . . That said - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diatomaceous_earth#Pest_control

Afraid I saw that one coming from a mile away.

The only thing you have to watch when loading for precision on a progressive press is that you can get a slightly different output when checking things one station at a time vs running all stations full. Probably the most valuable time you can spend is at the range testing loads to find your optimum charge. If you can find a node where small differences charge and OAL result in tiny variations in velocity and impact, then you will have built enough latitude into your load. If you can't do that, then those little variations will kill your precision.

A trick one pro taught me is to squirt some of the foam into the barrel at the range and then plug the chamber and barrel. Drive home. Remove the plugs and run a few swabs down the barrel and you are done.

I would be careful about buying from any store owned by "him". Perhaps it's because he operates the same store under numerous different names. Perhaps it's simply volume. But I've seen a lot of reports of poor quality and service from his stores.

This is a stupid question but I can't see an easy way to get the pads off. The spring seems as if it would get in the way.

Would that be a good idea for a thin barrel? Flexing might be an issue?

There are also iPad versions of Myst and Riven if you are into that sort of thing. I liked those games a lot for mysteries and the puzzles but tired of having to trek across the island to find a clue then trek all the way back to throw a switch then trek back again to... One good thing about most iPad games is that they are pretty inexpensive compared to PC games. So I'll spring for $2.99 for something and if I don't like it then toss it. Of course, one reason they are less expensive is that you can't give it to someone else when you are done with it.

I'm looking for a new game for my iPad - something that requires thinking. I've played Room and Room 2 and loved them. Played all the Quell games and loved them. Tried a few locked door games and didn't get anything out of them. Had fun playing the iPad version of 7th Guest having already played the PC version. I've played around a bit with some games like Maniac Manor and thought they were OK but lacked any real depth - too many of the puzzles were just variations of each other. Not interested in anything with a timer or matching or hidden object (hate them). Suggestions?

Yes it could happen but it doesn't seem that likely. What is more likely is that a shooter can sandbag on their classifiers enough to keep their classification below what they are capable of. This can let them win their class and even division on a much more regular basis. There is one shooter I know who would seem to fit this profile except for one thing - I'm pretty sure he isn't sandbagging. He just sucks at classifiers.

++1 You do not want to put a compensator on anything that short. A Levang is your least expensive best bet.

Any gun maker has to balance the cost to make vs the sale price and determine what their primary market is. The Remington 700 action is popular because it is reasonably well made and reasonably priced. Remington could certainly up the standards but then they would have to up the price as well. I could shoot an MOA group with my 700 SPS right out of the box. That's not bad for a sub $1000 factory rifle.

The toolhead doesn't exactly float, but there is a bit of latitude in it. However, I don't use Dillon dies and have no trouble with the case lining up correctly with the sizing die. Except on rare occasions where I haven't pushed it into place exactly right.

Have you tried a less aggressive approach? I ask because this used to be very common practice but I've seen a number of people go to a much less aggressive routine with no drop in performance - myself included.

Just noticed the thread title and had to comment that I can see no reason for shooting pants. You can't eat them and they aren't a particular nuisance. I suppose if they are really old and you really hate them then you might want to shoot them but other than that...