MemphisMechanic

Yup. Sarge and GAS backed me up on it; the only thing the Redding comp die does well is rapidly switch between different bullets and/or OALs when loading the same caliber. In my case? Dial it in to 42, then back out to 77, and I can load the two bullets I’m currently loading without getting out a wrench or even checking it with a caliper. You won’t really find straighter bullets or less OAL variation.

Same. I don’t run them for this reason. I could not agree with you more strongly. Big fan of CCI primers. Run fullpower striker / hammer springs and they’re boringly reliable. I bought a ton of CCI magnum small primers a while back. Didn’t seem any harder to detonate and chrono values were unchanged. Would buy them again.

@redpillregret Definitely get your press sorted out perfectly on the mechanical side. The bullet feeder only makes it harder to dial in. The redding seating die doesn’t do anything a dillon does. It is just easier to adjust your OAL with a turn of a knob, and to return to previous settings. I load 115 plated for PCC and 147 coated & plated for eveything else. It makes it easy to dial between the two without wrenches.

I prefer the Lee U-die to the EGW because the EGW is even further undersize. I find it just makes it harder to pull the handle without doing anything better than the Lee version did.

No. It takes a bit more effort to size, but if you’re already lubing like you should be it’s not a big deal at all. I run: Lee U-die (in process of replacing this with mighty armory’s new badass die but can’t recommend it yet) Swage (factory 1050 stuff) DAA expander funnel. Use this on ANY 550/650 even if you don’t have a bullet feeder. Seriously 100 times better than the Dillon trumpet belling crap. Mr Bulletfeeder Redding micrometer seater. Lee Factory Crimp I’m really happy with this array of dies. I expect 2 to 5 case gauge failures out of 1,000 at most. 1 or 2 is more common. And 90% of those will still run through a gun flawlessly; I just don’t use them as match ammo. I don’t gague practice ammo. Malfunctions are exceedingly rare.

@redpillregret try a Lee U-die. They size further down the case than most others, and the extra thousandth really helps IMO.

The good lord is trying to tell you to do through polishing job on it by forcing you to take it apart.

SBR’s registered as rifles (no pistols w/ braces allowed) are totally good to go in USPSA. Not sure about IDPA: there’s far too many ‘local rules’ situations going on in that sport for me to answer confidently: some match directors still prohibit PCCs altogether. They’re far, far more fun in USPSA than IDPA too. So if you have to pick, I’d optimize the gun for the USPSA ruleset.

These days you need to follow your desired bulletmaker on Instagram or Facebook. That’s where I got in on Everglades and BlueBullets both being 10% or more off. I didn’t see the sale on either shop’s website.

We have a local (he’s on here, actually) who was a pretty darned good pistol shooter. Fast forward a motorcycle crash, and twicein his life waking up to hear doctors saying “you will never walk again...” ...and his dominant hand’s fingertips lack the sensation/dexterity they used to have. Both hands are quite a bit weaker than normal for his age as well. PCC now has him back at the range helping run our matches every single weekend, and he’s genuinely competitive in the A-ish skill range in PCC for USPSA. And much better than that in steel challenge. For how many older shooters it’s brough back to the sport in my area - men who spent years ROing and giving to USPSA - I personally don’t hate PCC at all. Us younger dorks who mess around with one when we should be shooting handguns? That’s a different matter.

@Dirtchevy841 My bench is 3/4” thick oak hardwood atop an extremely stout welded steel frame. I bolted it to the wood with large 1” fender washers underneath at all four corners. 650 was like that beforehand too. No problems.

Yes! FINALLY! AMERICA got the high-capacity “freedom” divison this time!

There are plenty of cars on the road that cost less than my PCC has. I could have saved a sustantial amount by buying a JP, let alone a PSA. I’ve done a lot of experiementing and learned some very interesting things about which combinations work, and which do not. That’s what I was after - I never set out to do a budget build.

Definitely will work well. The KE Arms lower I run has a similar design and it’s positioned perfetly:

I think you need a larger release.

It’s an EOTech. With all of the problems fixed. And they halved the price along the way.

Col-specific LULA is absolutely fantastic. I just sold my colt mags and transitioned my gun to Glock mags... I have two loaders for the Colt mags. PM me if you think you might want them?

@JsK the holosun has some other things going for it over the C-more 1. Noticeably brighter with a smaller more precise aiming point when it’s turned down, bright and easy to track when turned up. 2. Holds a zero. C-more railways need regular zero checks due to the plastic “hinge” locating the base of the glass. 3. Battery life. Between the solar cell and the optic’s frugal use of power, I leave it turned on all day at max brightness on range day. For months on end. I’m still on the first battery in my 510c, well over half a year later. 4. You can find them for $220-250 and no one is making 510c knockoffs to sell on eBay that I’m aware of. The same is not true of the C-more.

Yes the Stock 1... is more like a Stock 4.

EAA has sold the stock but never the stock 1. When the Stock 2 came out, everyone just referred to the gun with nothing but “STOCK” on the slide as a stock 1. Which was fine and dandy, until Tanfoglio decided to come out with their fourth and newest model last year. And actually engrave “STOCK 1” in the slide. That is the gun IFG imports. EAA has the stock. IFG has the stock 1.

The barrels measure .525 at their thinnest diameter, which is .085” wall thickness. The mediumweight MBX is .625” diameter at its thinnest, which is 37% thicker. I turned my CMMG barrel down to .625” from .750, which took half a pound off of it. It still shoots a tight group.

You can buy a 9mm clymer finishing reamer through Brownells for around $80. Finishing reamer, not a chamber reamer. Or send the barrel to Patriot Defense, they do a great job fast. For what it’s worth, I have a really high end carbide reamer that’ll cut any 9mm barrel out there no matter how hard it is. I can do it too if you like.

His post clearly says: 1. “I currently shoot a an Open Glock and it won’t eat rifle primers.” 2. “I just bought a Ck Arms 2011. Will that blaster eat rifle primers?”

You are. This post is a hallucination.