MemphisMechanic

Which just comes back to prove the "this isn't going to change anything, it's just going to widen the chasm between the match-winning gamers and the average joes" argument as valid. The fast and accurate guys who compete well as Experts and Masters are already crushing everyone else. This will upset the "wins by hosing" SS and EX guys, but they already get stomped by the former group.

Old and grainy, but here you are: Bolt the center of the pulley to the stand, weld a piece of angle iron across the face of the pulley to begin the target frame... and hang some form of heavy steel plate underneath, tacking it and moving it around until it moves the speed you want. Armor the pulley with angle or flat plate, too. (Not shown, added before delivery) This is six years old, and the second shooter to ever fire at it managed to center-punch the armor in front of the pulley. No one has hit it since he did, however!

Tie a knot in the middle of the string so it rests on the back of your neck above your collar.

In a hair over a month I'll be cracking open my Stock 3 and beginning to swap parts and overhaul. If anyone is inclined to send me a part or two to test and then ship back to them, we might be able to expound on this list. Titan, BOLO, PD springs all around, and 1pc sear are the current items on the list.

Thanks! I just plugged all my loads into excel. I got tired of digging through randomly scribbled post-it's and scraps of notebook paper near the reloading bench every time I wanted to return to an old recipe.

E-clip, actually. A 1/4" E-clip is easy to find in the miscellaneous parts bins at Home Depot or Lowes in the bolt & nut aisle. They break eventually, nothing abnormal likely happened.

No, nothing on YouTube. Only things to do different: Any time you change bullets, make sure they pass the "plunk and spin" test. Bell the case mouth a bit more so that no coating is scraped off. Crimp just until the case wall is no longer flared. Then pull a bullet and verify that the coating is not being cut, nor the bullet accidentally resized during crimp. You should barely be able to see and feel a line on the bullet where the case mouth was.

Updated the above attachment, above.

What do you mean by "the process"? Also, the answer is almost certainly no.

Crap - I just saw that the bullet weights are chopped off on the left side. I'll get the full chart soon if you like. But I've only run WST and Ramshot Competition behind 135s

I've run everything EXCEPT titegroup behind this bullet. I love the way it shoots, nearly as soft as a jacketed 147. But on a budget. This might help:

And coated bullets loaded to minor power factor work great through a Glock factory barrel, by the way.

I shoot Black Bullets International. A coated pill needs less powder behind it compared to a plated/jacketed one (they seal in the rifling sooner and better)... So a BBI 135gr feels almost exactly like the $$$ soft shooting 147 FMJs did

Motor oil. Slide glide. The magic snake oil of the month. It all feels and runs the same on a loose, reliable Glock. They're not picky - that's what people have been telling you. Don't sweat which product you use.

As someone who is going to begin building their Tango next month and who likes running CCI primers... thank you! This is a huge help. I'd been wondering if the Titan was really worth the $112. It definitely looks like it is.

I picked up 15k CCI to go with the 10k I already had, from a local outdoors goods store. Stopped and did a double take when I saw them. "What's your maximum per customer." "There isn't one." "Give me the whole shelf of Small Pistol." I like to keep 15k+ on hand normally. Easy choice.

Apparently the Mark III wasn't impossible enough to reassemble. Will the IV have two extra steps? As it was, you needed a witch doctor, a full moon, and an inclinometer to put the MF'er back together.

I've seen references to someone's case lube or bit of grease on the part that pushes the case into the shellplate being tacky. Just enough stiction to tug the case back out of the shellplate a couple of thousandths and cause misalignment issues. I run a Dillon die in station 1 with the mouth ground down about halfway, so that it still has double the funnel of the U-die, but sizes further down than the super-flared unmodified Dillon. I've always had the occasional jam at station one from a misaligned case - perhaps once every 100 rounds or so. I've always simply tapped the case over and kept going.

Here's my input without stopping to read any of the other replies. Just so you can compare it to other users responses to see if you're consistently getting the same thing: If you're only loading for one gun, pick a bullet and plunk test it. Find the max you can load to before the bullet is hitting the rifling, and you'll know how long you can load. How long SHOULD you load? Well, loading longer than the book recipe calls for is safer due to reduced pressure and loading shorter could be less safe due to raised pressure from less case volume. The answer is to work up a load and then vary the OAL until you hit the sweet spot that is most accurate in your gun, and at least a few thousandths less than the max OAL so the cartridges won't choke your gun. If you intend to load for all of your guns, you need to check all of them. CZs won't eat ammo at 1.150, so if you give your Glock ammo to a buddy with a CZ his gun probably won't eat it. I leave my press set up to load 9mm ammo for my Production gun, never load anything else. I keep the hopper above half full and never empty it. The hopper will discolor but there's no other reason to empty it unless you want to switch powders. You can either load ammo until you run the machine dry on primers (I do this if it'll be a long time before loading any more ammo) or you can keep it constantly full of primers / powder so that you can effectively resume loading ammo every few days. People run their machines differently, and both work great. That's normal. Gauge your ammo (get a hundo gauge from the Ben Stoeger shop right away, trust me) and don't worry about the coke bottle look. Think of the crimp station as "flare removal". With coated bullets too much crimp leads to accuracy issues. Crimp just enough to remove the bell, then pull the bullet. There should barely be a line on it where the case mouth was. I might check every few weeks, or if something feels off. It's a Ronco powder measure. Set it and forget it. I've got you covered there, too. See second line:

How often do you oil the practice gun between cleanings? Mine gets re-oiled each time I'm about to head to the range. My gun is likewise filthy for most of it's life, but I try to keep it well lubed. IMO, that's more important than keeping it clean.

If you want the footage to improve, you need someone to film you or a camera on a tripod to catch you from head to toe. I've tried the GoPro and Countour and honestly the $150 Pivothead glasses have everything else beat for 1st person. But wearing the camera teaches you nothing. It's just fun to show others. Last USPSA match in them: (cuts to them 5 seconds into first stage)

The Xtreme trigger also increased the trigger reach for the DA pull, though. So if you already find that to be long (shorter fingers) it might not suit you.

Smaller hands, CZ Shadow variant. Larger hands, Tanfoglio Stock 2. Tacticool, something polymer with a rail.

He answers this EXACTLY in detail at 12:35 (Rewind a few minutes if you want the question the viewer asked) I've done this drill in one of his classes and it is an immense help.

I made my own using the idler pulley off of a Toyota Tacoma. The perks of owning a welder, obviously. Actually works as well as any of the commerical ones.