MemphisMechanic

Maybe I need to check for some wear in the priming system then. I'm running a bearing on the shellplate as well, but can't dimple the face of a primer by any means.

Good. I'll be ordering a 10lb spring and another part or two when you've got them done!

Only if it isn't level. Bolting it to the wall removes the last bit of rocking that your press feels when you seat primers on the upward stroke of your handle and push it back toward the wall. Keeps the casefeeder more static and reduces those rare inverted pieces of brass, and the like.

Mine is plugged in all the time. A cheap little Lyman. On the bench next to the press. Your bench is bolted to the wall, right? If not, do so immediately. My bench weighs over 150lbs and is hell for stout. Lagging it into a stud at either end was still a revolution in press operation.

Go read CHA-LEEs range diary. He's pretty close to the top tier GMs and it's fascinating reading, his descriptions and thinking behind the advantages he found the 2011 had with that kind of high round count use and abuse and with training at that intensity. Below that level, I'm not convinced it matters.

I bleed blue, buddy. ...And I agree with you. Primer swaging and full seating depth adjustments are the primary reasons on top of the list that have a 1050 high in my "wants." Fortunately, I'm damned happy with the trigger that resulted from my 14# PD hammer spring. Once the barrel is back from Bevin and I have gotten the hammer/firing pin mechanisms fully polished, I expect I'll have a gun that runs 100%. I "only" had two malfunctions in my second match, which is a 500% reduction from the first one. (I've also begun hunting down ammo with the deepest-seated primers and marking the back with a sharpie. Those are specifically loaded as the top round in my 11-rd mags. Haven't had issues with a DA second-strike being needed anymore.)

I mean, if you want to spend $400 for two guns to say APEX GRADE on the barrel hoods, don't let me stop you. It's your money. ...and the Wilson barrel would probably go for a pretty penny on eBay. I'd rather buy $400 worth of bullets/primers/powder to feed the Dillon: when I have ammo on hand, I tend to go practice a lot and actually improve.

With the Apex my gun shoots around 2" as best I can determine. I'm happy with than since it was a 10" gun with 135-147gr ammo. I would have felt differently if my gun already shot into 3" at 25. In my opinion and likely contrary to what Apex would say, the Apex barrels are a fantastic cure for the guns that won't hit the broad side of a barn due to early barrel designs and/or being among the loosest to leave the factory in terms of sloppy slide/barrel/frame fitting. They aren't intended to take an already accurate M&P and turn it into a 1911-like firearm that shoots sub-1" groups. I wouldn't spend the money.

Before you splurge on Apex barrels... Does your gun shoot more than 3"-4" at 25 yards with heavy (135+) grain bullets when bagged-in and shot by a skilled shooter?

Problem is that I don't have a way to CrushDimpleSeat my primers on a 650. Need a 1050 even more now.

This was mentioned in a post in the Tanfoglio forum here on BEnos (our guns have super short chambers much like CZs)

Yes he did. However there's more than one way to skin a cat. The problem with the way most people utilize sandpaper is that they tend remove material instead of smoothing up the metal which is there. And they're using it on the components of the action - especially hammer/sear surfaces. IMO, even something like 800 grit is far too coarse. I was personally comfortable wet-sanding the insides of the hammer spring and plunger holes with 2000 grit since I didn't have a way to polish those with compound. Now that I do, that's the way I'll go.

Yes! Try to avoid changing the dimensions on such parts and just make them slick as can be. The high spots are the only ones that'll rub on the frame anyway. (Don't forget to polish those surfaces on inside of the frame too!)

I rolled 1500 grit up and twirled it through the holes, then 2,000 grit lubed with Flitz polishing compound. For my next pass through the gun, those bits I bought above are going to be used to "wet chrome" the insides of the holes. I also think polishing the hammer spring is probably worth the time and effort.

Because I forgot the P07 existed when thinking out loud.

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/241635-cz-p-10-striked-fired/

Think about how polymer guns are made. Metal rails embedded in the plastic for the slide to ride on like a Glock or M&P... Or a metal chassis the frame is molded around that also has rails milled into it. How are you going to get a polymer slide-in-frame to not have plastic rails inside the slide grooves, but rather the needed metal on metal rails? I think that's exactly why it's built the way it is.

Also, recognize it isn't entirely your grip that is to blame. You're shooting faster than you can see. There's no way you would intentionally pull the trigger with the sights indexed at the bottom of the target in the C/D zone... So you're probably not honestly sighting your second shot. Are you shooting a hammer at the target (one sight picture then a cool sounding fast pair of shots) or are you honestly making a good faith effort to get that second round off right as your sight comes down from recoil and is dropping into the notch? To be honest, most C-class shooters can't yet see that last thing that I described and that's why they should be shooting slower splits than an A or M. Don't shoot faster than you can see - and your eyes don't have the same level of practice working at speed yet.

How many stands? I assume you mean the H shaped ones with two stake pockets welded into the corners

No, I shoot in Production using a Tanfoglio Stock 3. The gear list in my post (basepads and all) was based on the fact that the OP said he's shooting a Stock 2, which utilizes the same frame grips and mags.

Is "full length" the fairly long 1.180 to 1.200 lots of 2011 shooters like to use, or 'full length' for factory ammo?

Also... I'm really fond of specialized dremel bits. This set works really well: Link on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLYJC82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pJzpybCA5NQ7J I tend to use felt attachments like that and some Flitz polishing compound after some 1500 then 2000 grit paper in frame holes and the like. The bullet shaped ones get into tight places well. They small cylindrical ones work well on narrow areas like the channels in the frame for the hammer and trigger. Johnbu uses a rag wheel in a 6" bench grinder for much of his work on trigger parts, which I would absolutely do if I had one. A local 1911 Whisperer likes to use the rubber dremel attachments with grit impregnated into them. I intend to play with those someday. He's been doing this for 50 years and must like them for a reason.

I intend to do a Stock II and Stock III guide sometime soon. On teardown, parts replacement of sear and hammer and disconnector, spring upgrade, and how to polish and reinstall. Along with fitting the extended firing pin block correctly. Patriot Defense better start paying me royalties at this rate! ... a lot more people are going to be aware of how simple the trigger job is and how little need there is for a gunsmith. These guns are surrisingly simple. Very easy to work on with a couple of pliers and a kit of roll-pin punches, a polishing kit for a dremel, and a clean place to work.

This is the correct method to use. I should have elaborated in my first post.

Don't do that unless it's necessary. I'm on my second bushing - the outside of the first one wore until it didn't stay in the bracket when you cycled the press, after about 10-15,000 rounds. They do wear, and a larger hole will accelerate things.