MemphisMechanic

Stock 2 standard. titan hammer, bolo disconnector, 1pc EAA sear with matching extended firing pin block, lighter sear and trigger springs, a few hours of polishing, and the hammer spring of your choice. Plus a Dawson front sight and a pair of grips of you feel like it. Done. Far better trigger than the Xtreme for less money and you get to keep the hard chrome finish instead of dealing with the less durable finishes on the Xtreme.

Stock 2 standard. titan hammer, bolo disconnector, 1pc EAA sear with matching extended firing pin block, lighter sear and trigger springs, a few hours of polishing, and the hammer spring of your choice. Plus a Dawson front sight and a pair of grips of you feel like it. Done. Far better trigger than the Xtreme for less money and you get to keep the hard chrome finish instead of dealing with the less durable finishes on the Xtreme.

Hi Tek coating is all you'll really find from Bayou, Black Bullets International, HS, SNS, and quite a few other places. Good stuff, and quite affordably priced.

I firmly believe that you'll get a better trigger from a gun if you do the work yourself. Personally, I've got about three hours worth of time in the polishing job on my Tanfoglio after the upgraded action parts were fitted. I simply don't think CGW or any other shop has that kind of time to spend on getting the internals to glass-like smoothness, however detail oriented they are.

I'll skip that one because that's the opposite of what appeals to me: barrel length is easy to hide IWB, and the grip is what prints when you bend over. I'm looking at the polymer compact, instead. ...Perhaps since my Stock 3 doesn't have a cone-fit bull barrel, it didn't occur to me to desire one.

The Carry P is the one with a fullsize grip and the shorter 3.6" barrel, right?

I'm finally shooting chronoing and shooting 200 rounds of it tomorrow. Quite excited to see how it compares to Ramshot Comp - which I picked up at an early "this is great!" suggested phase from members here... and of which I'm not a fan. Hopefully Prima V will deliver what RS Comp didn't.

Did you bolt your bench down solid to the wall? If not, take note of how much that casefeeder is swaying when you load. Then lag the bench into the studs and compare. I may get one or two inverted cases naming things up in 1,000 rounds loaded. Usually it's a .40 or .380 slipping through my inspection process that messes with me. I load around 150 cases at a time. Spray the inside of a Tupperware with one shot for two seconds, dump them in my hand and swirl around. Check one last time for steel or .380s or what have you, and dump them in with each new stack of primers.

I'll take coated bullets over plated any day. Especially shooting minor or .40 major.

The best thing you could possibly do would be to head to the range with a seasoned A or M shooter and have them show you what you're actually capable of when it comes to transitions between targets and splits between shots on one target. You are a rare exception: most new shooters get encouraged to speed up moving and loading and not their shooting. In your case, that's not true. Learn how much faster you can shoot and transition without sacrificing the hits you get on the targets. You will be surprised.

I feel like you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill: fitting the parts is a matter of an hour or so worth of disassembly and reassembly testing and filing. It's not fast, but it is extremely easy. (Easy enough that I'd take Tanfo gunsmithing jobs if there could possibly be enough demand and the ATF didn't mind without getting a few liscenses!) You could possibly need a new bolo: Titan & Bolo together typically drop right in. Most of the time. Mine did, in a one-piece converted Stock 3. So there's a chance you could need some of that metal you removed. ARy can answer far better than I.

At least the extended / Xtreme firing pin block is only $15. But it really is pretty hard to screw up. If you do the filing by hand and not a bench grinder.

Why? If needed, fitting the firing pin block to the gun is a simple affair you can easily do with no more than a hand file and five minutes of your time. Test it for function, remove a small amount of steel, and repeat. It'll take you about twenty seconds to pop the firing pin and block out of the slide each time, until the firing pin passes the block cleanly with the trigger pulled.

How do you handle a slide lock reload on the clock?

Re: Stock 2 Xtreme? Two issues there. First, it's a big grip. My girlfriend is 5'1" and 115 and if she ever wants to exit the M&P game, she's going CZ because she likes them much more than my longer, fatter large frame. Second, you can outfit a Tanfoglio with a vastly superior trigger to the Xtreme guns for far less money. The only true benefit to the Xtreme is found outside the US, where you can't stick a variety of aftermarket springs and disconnector into it from Patriot Defense (the CGW of the Tanfoglio world.)

I always was, too. On Glocks and M&Ps... it has a nasty habit of occasionally failing to strip a round out of the magazine. On this gun it's been perfect, and there simply isn't a clean way to drop the slide of a lefty short of racking it - and taking too long.

Not smaller hands, but a lefty here: I deliberately chose the Tanfoglios over CZs because CZs are too small for my hands. The large frame of the Stock 3 felt perfectly molded to me when I picked it up. I will assume that the CZ magazine release can be reversed like the Tanfo's. That takes care of that issue: install the largest Production legal extended button you can, and she may or may not have to flip the gun in her had to hit it... but she gets to do so with her strong thumb. Run the lightest recoil spring the gun will operate with and which plays well with your ammo, and teach her to cock the hammer before loading it so that she gets that lightweight rack at load & make ready. Here's the big one: "tune" the slide stop. With some filing to tweak the angles on the slide stop and it's corresponding notch in the slide, plus a few minutes of polishing you can make the gun effortlessly "auto forward" when a magazine is seated. I have my gun set up so that it takes just a bit more effort than I usually exert in a speed reload. I have to bump it into place just a bit harder than that and it will run forward and chamber a round every single time. I kept it from going forward really really easily so that the slide doesn't drop when you accidentally crash into the bottom of the frame when you botch a reload. I also don't have to hammer the magazine into the gun to get it to auto forward like I did when it was new. An auto-forward reload was important for me because I ride the ambi safety with my strong thumb when I shoot, and that safety is tragically in the way when attempting to use my trigger finger to swipe the slide release down like I did on Glocks. So aside from boning myself with a slow manual slingshot, there's no other logical way to execute a slide-lock reload.

Mine only needed a few passes of a file before it cleared. A thousandth or two appears to be the variation in tolerances between guns - in the ones like mine where fitting is needed, it's still exceptionally close to clearing.

My gun is at a lighter DA pull than yours primarily because of the internals I've added. The 1-PC sear reduces pull weight because it deletes a second sear spring. Titan hammer has shorter and repositioned hooks for better geometry. Bolo does magic things. I'm not sure what, aside from an insanely awesome reset. Just put all that in and go. Reset? Consider this: when finished, the trigger resets... and stops moving forward. It's forty times more obvious than the reset click in a Glock. It becomes a 1911: in SA, the trigger now only moves between reset point and where it fires, like this: Also yes... I have reduced power springs in trigger and sear. So a bit of pull weight is lost there, too. You don't need a 10-lb spring that will only fire federal primers to lower your trigger pull. I'm using a heavier spring than you (14) and I have a lighter trigger primarily due to the Titan/bolo and reduced springs everywhere else. And vastly better polishing. Put the good parts in, and don't look back. Oh, and sell the Henning pin on eBay and run a polished factory one.

That's usually the way it works. It's one of the reasons many of us load our 9mm Minor PF to 135ish PF and not to 128 - or whatever number gives you confidence in hovering just about the minimum. Reliability and accuracy generally improve with velocity.

You'll figure out that this is a grip pressure issue (strong hand tensing up when shooting fast and locking down on the trigger). Even the strongest-clicking Glock reset on the planet won't fix your trigger freeze. Trust me. Been there. We all think a loud clicky reset is some kind of advantage for a long time. It really doesn't change anything one way or the other: you release to the point you've learned to in dryfire and live practice - unless you get tense due to pressure to really rip that second shot.

At a 1050 with a fully loaded Mark 7 bolted to it.

Click the menu icon on the top left, then audio, then it plays just fine in Safari on myiPhone

I've listened to 18 of the 23 so far. Bought the all-access pass right away. Bob Vogel, Yong Lee, Craig Douglas, Ernest Langdon, Frank Proctor... Kyle Lamb... all excellent. All but a few of the rest were very, very good, too. (Not to name names, but I suspect at least one might have gotten a spot because it would put the Shooters Summit on the radar with a very very popular YouTube channel / podcast, and that one wasn't exactly riveting.) Not one of the tactical guys bashed on competition. Most of the military Operator types had learned from high ranking competitors in the service, knew the skills you find there, and were very clear that you need to practice and the stress of competition is a great thing to push yourself. It just reminds me that "Timmy vs Gamer" is pretty much an internet keyboard commando phenomenon ... and guys who really, really shoot a lot know you need both sides to be well-rounded. Spend $19.99 on it. Save the .mp3's so you can listen at your leisure (I did). This is a project worth supporting.

That's exactly what it was. A poly-rifled barrel needs an even smaller pilot than conventional. My S3 is polygonal, and both reamers I tried utilize fixed pilots.