MemphisMechanic

Yes. Any gun that isn't part of the "Xtreme" line and which comes with a one piece sear will be fitted with the one that you want.

If you're going to put Henning's trigger kit into the gun, it'll be ESP-only due to the external modification. Since it's going to be shot in ESP... I'd look for a set of safeties that let you reach them, because I'd absolutely be shooting the gun in single-action cocked and locked. You're already at a disadvantage with the Lim Pro because I don't believe anyone makes an IDPA legal magwell for it, and Tanfos are hard guns to reload fast. ESP means you're up against 9mm 2011s with light SA triggers and IDPA-size magwells that load much more easily. I'd want to set it up for SSP because that's where the gun would be one of the most dominant choices. But that means either the factory trigger or the Xtreme "less curved" trigger. And the factory trigger has a shorter trigger reach in DA. If it makes weight, I'd look into the Xtreme / EGD grips because they're the thinnest ones made for the gun that I'm aware of. The scales seemed to be somewhere between those and factory wood ones from my memory, although I could be wrong.

I'm a fan of the .140 height DP sight. Keeps the fragile LPA lower a little lower in the notch, and it still has plenty of adjustability left. I'm assuming you left the PD trigger spring out of the list because Henning's short trigger comes with one. Honestly, if you're struggling with the trigger reach of the Tanfoglio, why didn't you choose the shorter and thinner CZ? I feel like the Tanfoglio got popular with US shooters because of its large frame - I have long thin hands and a Shadow never felt like I was holding onto enough gun.

That's about right. I couldn't get RN 124s that were 1.165" into my Glock mags. At 1.150" the mags and gun ate it like free candy.

The heaviest Patriot Defense spring is a safe bet if pull weight isn't as important as reliability with hard primers. That would be the 14lb.

If he has a new style frame, he's good.

Interesting. I'm around 30,000 rounds into my 650's 8 year life and I've never once touched the priming assembly. (Which is likely the entire source of the problem)

I'll probably "fabricate" a budget for a 1050 before I go to that kind of trouble, but I do get your point. The 650 really should have adjustable seating depth. ..Then sell blood and plasma to make a Mark 7 happen...

Yes, the higher up on the brass the ejector hits, the flatter the brass will fly. Hitting it lower (like his undercut) will cause more of a rainbow arc. Hit it down low, and it will flip upward...

One of the things my Stock 3 has definitely done? Really made me want a 1050 with its swaging and fixed-depth priming even more. The 650 with range-pickup brass isn't ideal. That's for sure. I'm going to look at the machine when I get home and see if loading 30,000 rounds has caused the priming ram to somehow back out slightly. I'm tempted to see if the machine shop at work can make one out of tool steel that's +.020" or something along those lines.

What ARy is saying is that the plunger spring is a factor in how far back the hammer travels in DA. Factory plunger spring = pretty much the same trigger pull and a harder hitting hammer. You need to do the same things I do: Send your barrel to Bevin Grams. Mine is on the way back and I can't recommend him enough. Polite, answers the phone and/or calls you back. I had him cut mine deeper than most: I sent a dummy of my least forgiving round (a 135fr with an ogive that sucks for Tanfos) loaded at 1.150" and don't expect any more problems. Polish like a mad demon. All of it. Twice. Reinstall the factory plunger spring. Run a 14lb spring if you want to dance with S&B primers from time to time. With a full polishing it should light pretty much anything.

If Henning made grips the same shape and contour as the factory wood ones, I'd have purchased those rather than the existing Henning ones. Also, as a left who as swapped his mag release to the other side, I was disappointed to see that there is no thumb groove in the right-hand grip. To be perfectly honest I wouldn't have purchased them if I had known that I was going to have to take a dremel to a $130 pair of grips... I'm glad I didn't know. Because I love the traction and feel of them enough that I don't mind having to do that now that I've test-driven them. It would, however, be nice if the photos on your website showed the "weak hand" side of the gun, so lefties would know they aren't getting a thumb groove.

While that's quite clearly overkill (many of the surfaces ARy polished see no movement nor wear) I feel like a lot of people overlook one of the biggest benefits of a chrome-like polishing job: The surfaces have no tooth anymore. Carbon deposits and powder residue you used to have to scrub and scrub to remove? It wipes right off with a pass from a dry cloth. I polish the breech, barrel, and breechface of every gun I shoot in high volume just because I loathe cleaning guns.

I legitimately "LOL'd" at this one. Very true. The Safety Police are strongest when they are able to hide behind keyboards at the same time. For the record, I've shot with the OP a few times, and he hasn't put any holes in any props yet.

I figured. But yeah, even doing it three days a week will halve the pain in about 7-10 days. I did it every day at first and was pain free at 12 to 14 days. That was a complete change of lifestyle - lifting a gallon of milk didn't come with a cringe. Then you stop. And it comes back. So you resume. Eventually you learn to do it 3 days a week when it doesn't hurt, and live pain-free for good.

I keep reading this on here. It's fascinating, since we have posted about the cure many times You can go from "can barely push down to flush the toilet" (that was my wake up call) to being totally pain free in three weeks with a couple of dumb bells. Fix it! It worked on Rob Leatham so it has to be good. My elbows and wrists haven't hurt the least little bit in six months. https://www.absolutept.com/shooters-elbow/

Either sweep with trigger finger, or "pinch" it between the trigger finger and thumb, using both sides, if your reach is long enough.

Agreed. Coated or FMJ for me. Never found plated to be as accurate or consistent as a good product in the first two categories.

It's really hard to reach the DA position in a gun that doesn't have one, eh ARy? Impossible even.

Change your OAL or try +\- 0.2 grains in charge weight, or change powders or bullets entirely, and see what happens. Some bullets or bullet & powder combinations don't like certain guns. Just the way it is.

With costed bullets, I routinely pull a couple of bullets after loading the first few and take a look. I want to make sure the base still mic's the same diameter as a fresh bullet, and most important that there's only the smallest impression where the case mouth was crimped. In all 9mm loads, you should only crimp until you've removed your flaring from the mouth - just until the walls are straight enough to gauge 100% smoothly and no more. (I had a friend who was over-crimping and cutting the coating. He had all sorts of issues until this was resolved) That said, even if you aren't undersizing them with an aggressively adjusted Lee FCD or crimping the bejeezus out of them... precisions still smoke. A lot.

I have 6,000 bayou 150gr SWC bullets still boxed up in the garage. I just had the barrel of my Tanfoglio throated to allow me to load them out to 1.160" ... Provided they feed reliably, this will be my new production round. I'm curious to see how they compare to the 147 flat points I might otherwise have bought.

I don't disagree with you guys, just found it an interesting read. I want to read everything I can from those who've traveled down that road, and wanted to point out that it was there.

I agree and disagree. Practiscore won't show you that you're doing a bunch of unecessary motion (bending/twisting torso and bringing your head down between your shoulders) on your draw or reload. You might see that your draw and load need to be faster with scoring review of short courses, but practicing without some form of instruction will just make you faster at inefficient techniques. (Practice makes permanent, not perfect, and all that) However, there's no need to make the leap to "paying a GM" to get that. If you're asking the question the way the OP is, odds are good that your local M and A shooters will have a lot of tips to help you along for free.