MemphisMechanic

He's a non-USA ISPC shooter, I do believe. That means they will burn his house down and shoot his dog, if he gets caught with polished components inside his gun.

Everyone knows you don't touch a Tanfoglio with sandpaper. Unless it's mine.

The pit crew rebuilds his primary while he's shooting the backup. At the risk of going full Tactical Timmy on you all... if you don't have a backup for your backup , you're not prepared at all.

I never had problems with the ones I have fitted. They key is to leave a few thousandths of overtravel, just like on a steel framed gun with a setscrew, where you adjust it until the gun will barely dial to fire, then back it out a half turn or more. With the ghost I file until it allows the striker to drop and then file a bit more so there's a tiny bit of visible overtravel in your trigger mechanicsm. Glocks, like 1911s, can do all manner of stupid things if you fit everything too tightly and then the gun gets hot. Or dirty. Or wears.

I've tried a multitude of combinations. This is the completely ideal set up. My Tanfoglio rides in this combination for Production. Basically take the blade-tech DOH we all started with, and cast it in concrete. Adjusts to exactly the height and rake you want, then (literally) bolts to your belt and locks down. No flopping when running, no shifting in any situation on the draw. (I know, I know. I thought the DOH was a pretty when I shot from one too. Trust me, it isn't.) $50 for the boss hanger and $57 for the holster body from @Kingman's Red Hill Tactical.

I wouldn't say all modifications are negative. I would argue that a good set of sights from Warren/Sevigny/Dawson/TTI and a 13lb ISMI recoil spring on the factory guide rod are 100% positive improvements to every 34 on the planet. After that, I suggest polishing the internals if you feel like it, and grip tape if you're shooting a 3rd gen like mine. A change to the non-extended slide stop and mag release may be needed depending on hand size and how you grip. Being a lefty, the stock ones are still installed in mine and I can't hit them on accident. Then buy a few thousand rounds of ammo and refuse to change anything until you make it to C class or B class. By then you'll know what you're doing when fancy gold anodized parts which might choke your gun begin arriving in the mail. (Hopefully, you'll realize that purchasing them isn't needed to shoot a Glock and win at all, but that's a different topic entirely.)

Maybe just having a "spring pack" for all the coily bits. A "trigger pack" for the bolo/titan/sear/FPB. And "recommended hard parts" for the front sight, guide rod, etc. Also I think you should seriously consider stocking clicky pen springs for an "undetectable crappy reset" package.

...Although many of us who shoot a lot are going to wait a little longer than that... I always re-sprung my comp gun once a year, in the spring, before the season started. With the Glock and M&P that was sometimes 12,000-15,000 rounds. Respringing a gun every 3 or 4 months if you shoot in high volumes seems quite excessive. I honestly don't know anyone who resprings more than 2 times a year with a 2011 or Production gun no matter what number of cycles the springs are seeing, and that works well for them.

And if you think that it's too stiff right now - firmer than your old one was when new - that's a good thing.

Well I feel better about wearing them to the range without an ANSI rating molded into the polycarbonate, now.

Don't go being all bitter just because your "baby" isn't good enough for his gun.

When that guy put together "The Tanfoglio Bible" without every having touched one. (Then Patriot Defense and the Bolo had to go and make all those T3 Disco and click pen discussions obsolete!)

What wakatasz said for sure. Also: Step one. Take the overtravel screw out altogether for the first 500+ rounds with the gun. Once it proves reliable? go ahead and reinstall it. Can we get closeups of the trigger return spring and trigger pin, and the sear & sear cage, with good lighting, after removing the slide?

And thank you @highhope for positing the solution, so that someone can search for this in six months and find out how to fix their own gun.

@ARy loves working on them. Just send him yours and he will be happy to do it for free.

Look at the price your average Witness went for in the USA before Grauffel and Stoeger made the Stock models popular. They're $250-450 for a reason. 14 pound triggers and questionable reliability.

I think I did mine before it was ever fired. Man up! Just round the corner off with perhaps a 1/16" radius on it. And remember that you can always go back and remove more, but it's hard to put the metal back...

Truth. Just put the longest stiffest one in there and it'll still be a huge improvement.

The newer Stock III's have poly rifling. Mine does.

Your situation is normal. Grind the underside of that leg (where I show in that post above) until the bump on the safety shaft can finally tuck underneath it. Like this...

I've already done that with each gun I've competed with: Glock 34 and M&P 9L. The Glock likes 1.135" with a BBI 135gr bullet, 1.150" and 1.115" weren't as accurate. 3-3.5" groups with those at 25y vs 5" or so. The M&P wouldn't shoot less than a 10" group with any heavy bullet - 135 or 147. It grouped 3.5" or so with 115gr factory. They're notorious for failing with heavy rounds. With an Apex hand-fitted barrel it shoots under 3" with everything I fed it. It shot 1.75" with the same 1.135" the Glock liked... so I quit right there and kept that load. (I'm not a very good group shooter. It takes half a dozen tries for me to shoot a 2-3" group with a gun rested on bags. I keep calling fliers due to operator error, and when that's 3 shots out of 5...)

Your post made it sound like you did. I can't help - if I had a spare plunger spring I'd shoot a photo for you, but I don't have time to tear the gun down to snap a photo of one spring. Compare a photo of the extreme spring off BSPS or a similar website to your inventory of springs?

Install the Xtreme spring and tell us how it feels.

Nope. No one has ever seen the safety issue...

Until you're shooting at a 30yd plate rack on the clock, this is true.