MemphisMechanic

As best I can recall, Ben's advice from class was that if you must use a spot on the ground (one up high is preferred)... ... two steps out from arrival, you can put your foot on your spot without looking down anymore. Eyes come up, gun goes out, sights are in front of paper/steel the moment you round the corner and have a clear shot. Watch as he heads right to the steel. His gun is up and indexed on the plate through the barrel, and his footwork and stride are low and smooth enough that the gun doesn't bounce as he enters. He smoothly decelerates and breaks the first shot very quickly.

Unless you run Ghosts, then pretty much everything fits...

Get the kids out there too. Even if it is below freezing, there's nothing quite like free labor.

I'm always interested when I hear that guys are running a 6lb spring with 147s. Even at my preferred 133-135pf, my 147gr load wouldn't run on an 8 pound spring. I need a 10 for my gun to cycle consistently, even with aggressive polishing of the frame rails & grooves and the gun choked in a death grip. I'm hoping the slide to frame fit loosens up after a few thousand rounds, and I can run a lighter spring.

Yet hammers with more mass up top hit primers harder, so you might get away with less spring & trigger pull weight.

You want the EGD grips if the gun feels rather fat and you have serious troubles reaching the mag catch. They're the thinnest option. The henning's are roughly halfway between thick factory ones and the EGD Xtreme.

If the heads do turn out to be too big to fit the EGD holes, chuck the threads of the screw gently in a drill, and hold a dremel against the head to sand it down to a smaller diameter.

@Jeff O ... 6/2 and 2/2? Its crazy how these guns can vary. I had my gun down to 5/9 in DA and still had a 3/1 pull in Single Action (SA). My trigger pull with the hammer back seems 3/4 pound heavier than most, no matter where or how you polish the internals. I'm glad I'm not a trigger-gauge fetishist and that my gun feels terrific.

This is the place (aside from the huge benefit you see in recoil control) where a hard weak hand grip really shines. Bear down on the gun with your offhand using twice the pressure of your strong hand. Crush it so hard you hand nearly shakes. This will really help counteract the low/low-left torque you see from pulling the trigger, and keep the gun on target.

I disagree with this on principle. I treat local matches like they are major matches, thus I try to perform 100% my best with consistency. If I hit a noshoot, it's a big problem and not "ohhhhh, it's just a club match" ... and the same goes for my ammunition. It doesn't take long to run 300 rounds through a shockbottle and molest their backsides looking for high primers. Practice ammo gets cranked out and loaded, sure. But if you treat local matches like practice for Majors, and not just practice for practice's sake, you want things to run like they do in a major. (Yes, I do chamber check ammo for Majors. But invariably find nothing the shockbottle didn't catch.)

The shockbottle 100rnd gauge is one of the best things ever made. Get. One. Immediately. I actually load my ammo into plastic 100rnd storage boxes again, since it takes two quick flips after gauging each 100rd lot. I think one of the best things you can do is to check perfect, slightly sticky, and total failure rounds from your vague with your barrel. It's important to know what a round that won't plunk & spin feels like when run through your gauge, otherwise you need to use your barrel to ensure reliable ammo.

If anyone thinks there's a trigger-pull advantage to be had by starting half-cocked, they really need to practice shooting their gun in DA more often.

I'm trying to picture... You can't mean the sides of the trigger bar in the magwell. But that's the only place it really contacts the frame. In the back it doesn't touch the frame where it looks like it does. It's riding on the underside of the sear cage, under upward pressure from the plunger assembly. Did you change parts during this? What parts are in the gun EXACTLY? Does it fail to reset in SA or DA? I assume you mean single action, which is a function of the disconnector-to-trigger-bar fit.

If it'll make you feel better, use a cutoff wheel to slice a bit off an Allen wrench or drill bit to make a pin out of higher strength material.

I like this method. Makes sense.

Conventional wisdom around here says that however they changed things from the original design, these parts aren't breakage prone.

Gotten old enough you're using the sundial method?

@Sarge 4 to 5 ounces?! That works out to 12 seconds behind an equivalent competitor at Nationals who's wearing Salomon's! ... (My calculator is sponsored by Salomon.)

Exactly. Triggers enhance your ability to reach the gun's potential, but it's inherent mechanical accuracy is the limiting factor. And you wanted to know what it was

Actually @Malarkey it is important. (All referring to 25yd with guns bagged in:) Without a barrel swap my M&P wouldn't do less than 8" with bullets heavier than 130 grains. Your average Glock 34 is a 3" gun roughly. The Stock II with it's cone-fit barrel is exceptionally accurate, along the lines of most match-grade 1911s or a CZ with the Accu bushing. 1" or so is not uncommon with quality reloaded ammo.

My gun feels exactly the same with the firing pin block installed or removed. Seriosuly, just go practice with it a bunch and go to a match and have fun with it. 4.9 vs 6.0 pounds... a bit of stacking vs none... they shoot virtually the same at speed. Try them side by side on a short little USPSA stage and see. (Also It may be easier to take the stacking feel out of a CZ because the hammer spring is nearly twice as long.)

Fitting Titan and 1-piece sear combination: It takes perhaps ten minutes of testing & fitting with a dremel. Since this surface doesn't affect anything except how smoothly the safety flicks on & off, I don't bother polishing it afterward. Being able to feel the safety move is actually a benefit, in my mind.

The 13 pound Wolff hits much harder than a 13 PD - it also adds .5 to 1.0 pounds to the trigger weight. Just do that and go shoot it, you won't really notice it when actually firing it. I'd do that and leave the firing pin block (FPB) out for the first 500+ rounds. Get the gun completely reliable then put the block back in. That way if problems appear you know without question where your problem is. With a questionable hammer spring, ammo, chamber depth, and firing pin block fit you simply have too many possible issues and wind up chasing yourself in circles.

You have two choices. 1) Load ammo much more meticulously. "Below flush" isn't good enough for a 12 pound hammer spring and Winchester Primers. They need to be 100% at full depth 100% of the time with Winchester primers. 2) Make the gun hit harder. The 14 pound PD hammer spring and PD firing pin would probably run 100%... With primer seating like yours and much harder CCI primers, PD doesn't currently make a spring heavy enough to run my gun 100%. I had to install a 15.5ish lb EGD Xtreme Medium spring to light my "worst case scenario" ammo. This also brought my DA pull to 7.1 pounds. Hopefully when PD comes out with a 15.5 hammer spring it'll still hit hard without stacking as badly, and drop me back down around 6.5 pounds. A Wolff 13 or 14 pound spring would definitely run your gun 100% with Winchesters that aren't buried at ful depth.

If your gun has an one piece sear then it's more than likely ready to go with the Titan hammer