MemphisMechanic

Which model? My Stock 3 has done a 2.1" group and might be capable of more. However, I am not. The conefit barrel on a Stock 2 should make it an order of magnitude more accurate than a S III or a Limited Pro. None of them are lacking for accuracy relative to anything polymer.

Same here, but at 5 yards to the head box. My indoor range has really bad lighting for the rear half of the 25yds, so I do lots of work on upper A-zones up close. I'll do the dot torture 50rd workout with a sheet of 2" dots at 5 or 7 yd, too: https://pistol-training.com/drills/dot-torture Both of those work your DA shots from the holster nicely.

Sarcasm, sir. That said, I've seen it done (I'm 99.7% certain) by a C class guy with a CZ when faced with a 20yd plate rack. The DA shot was vastly more sporting than his usual ones, and looked like it landed a solid yard to the left of the first plate, which he then proceeded to aim more deliberately at.

Quit hating. The more (on topic) chitchat this forum has, the more likely other forum members are to buy one in order to join the cool kids club, and the more BOLOs you will sell. Interesting. For me it's totally the opposite. The DA is like any other long trigger you've shot: just keep it on target and focus on following through a bit more than you normally do and it's gravy. It just takes a long time and you screw yourself over if you run out of patience and slam it back without finesse. The single action trigger was the tricky one for me. With a bolo it feels like it goes off as soon as you begin to move the trigger, so I had four makeups on transitions in my very first stage with the Tanfo because I was beginning my "M&P trigger prep" as the front sight was decelerating into the A zone. The gun went off just early enough that I couldn't call the shot (two wound up being close C's and two were A's) so I ended up firing 3 on each target. That doesn't happen anymore, but the SA was definitely far more challenging for me to learn. (Of course, the main challenge with a Poroduction tanfo is getting a magazine into the gun in a hurry.)

Burn one into the dirt and enjoy your SA gun for the next 32 rounds?

We are well aware that shooting a Tanfo makes one an instant GM. However, my card seems to have been lost in the mail... How do you think switching to a Tanfogooglio helped or hindered your match placements? Did it actually improve how you shoot, or did the new shiny gun simply motivate you to dryfire or practice more? (And... What were you shooting before you switched?)

If you're looking to play in IDPA then it's time to rebuild your Lim Pro as a DA/SA for SSP / ESP domination purposes. No one shoots a CZ anymore. Those haven't been cool since they outlawed the Accu bushings.

I did that immediately after you suggested it. Chamfering that hole makes all kinds of sense.

If you want to spend weeks tuning and tweaking and to lose yourself in an evening? ...build an Open gun. You can kill months playing with one. And it still may not run!

Out of curiosity, do you expect to actually shoot this gun better due to these modifications? I get the part about wanting the shortest crispest trigger. We're men. Bragging rights and the joy of tinkering.

Then I will be interested to hear your reaction when you learn that Tanfoglio went years without being able to machine the chamber properly in $900 guns.

Why. Why?! Why are we just learning this now?! Sprints to the garage and grabs the blue magic polish...

When I can see a crisp enough reflection that I can tell which model of cameraphone you use, I'll be impressed.

Patroit Defense offered to send a 10 & 12lb spring my way. I'm going to repeat the trigger pull tests all the way from PD 10lb up to EGD Medium. My current goals for my gun are to pull it down and polish the absolute crap out of the internals and try to get it down to 5-5.5ish pounds with my 14lb spring. If I can - you can't get every Tanfo down that low. Then I'm gonna bump spring weight upward until I get back up around 6 pounds, and hopefully have a gun that eats anything. Anything. Including 20 year old corroded Wolf primers which were seated by a small child on a Dillon 650.

All good with me - keeps the information all in one place for later searching. I'm planning to do something similar too. See how a PD 14, Wolff 14, and E.G. Medium compare in the pencil test. Compare the standard and Patriot heavy firing pins too. Hopefully I feel motivated to play with it tomorrow.

If you are shooting properly chamber-checked ammo, the slide moves backward to feed a new round, and the case gets left behind, then it is indeed an extraction issue. That is literally the definition of a failure to extract.

What procedure are you gentlemen using to accurately measure the peak of the pencil's flight? It seems like it'd be tough to be accurate enough to gauge it to the nearest centimeter (or 1/4")* by watching it launched next to a tape measure with the naked eye. * A quarter inch isn't equal to once centimeter. I know this. You understand my point nonetheless

Those of us in the USA use Wolff brand recoil springs, so we are not using the EGD or factory springs like our international friends are.

And as Sarge said, the difference usually isn't a full grain. In minor 9mm loads the gap is usually 0.2-0.4 grains

Have you polished the breechface at all? Check to see if there's a rough edge around the firing pin hole - that's not unheard of. Is the factory ammo or reloads?

Explain the jam that occurs with as much detail as possible. Are you loading this ammunition or is it factory stuff? How much detail can you give us on it?

I would say that's a good guide, yes. You mean FTF as in failure to feed, correct? You do not mean failure to fire. (The gun is jamming while feeding the last round, right?) Are your magazines numbered so you can confirm that it happens with every single mag equally? Step one is always to make sure the malfunction isn't taking place with the same magazine each time. Or happening to several magazines and not with the rest.

I'm a big fan of using grease (Slide Glide, naturally ) to lubricate the trigger components, springs, and pins, rather than oil. Grease doesn't get slung off when shot, tends to stay where you put it, and allows you to go longer before you need to re-lube.

I'd estimate the Hennings are right between the EGDs and the wood ones. If you think the wooden ones are just a little too fat, they're probably the ticket. (I love the feel of the wood ones but couldn't reach the mag release without rotating the gun in my hand.)

Of course... You were dry, bare metal-on-metal at the most important interface between components that affect the double action trigger pull. Obvious. In hindsight. Also, don't lube it like a Glock. I found quickly that dousing every pin and hole and part in oil and running it really wet seems to work just fine. As long as you aren't oiling the hammer and slide rails so much that they sling it back into your face, the Tanfo platform doesn't make much of a mess when run this way like a Glock would.