MemphisMechanic

There are a lot of guys (myself kinda halfway included in this) who just find that plastic frames and striker-fire go well together, and metal frames with hammers go well together. The weird bastard children in between (H&Ks, Sig Pros, etc) never really seem to gain a foothold in competition circles. They tend to be more popular with tactical guys. Not arguing this is a legitimate viewpoint, merely that it's a common one.

Frickin' lasers. You have to use "frickin'" ... Example of correct useage: https://youtu.be/60AjI1pIzVQ

Well I'm left handed, so the henning's actually pissed me off with that - being completely righthand oriented. At least Scales are thinned at the top on both side, so both thumbs reach the mag catch.

Agree with this. I ran Hennings for two months and shooting a buddies Grauffel grips, the gun felt much thinner.

@Thomas H don't forget anything with an uprange surrender start. (turning draw) Starting with the weapon in your hands facing the targets on an El Prez might turn out to be a slight advantage, even though mag changes are slower.

$24. Order from the website and have it delivered to your local store for free. Does the job just fine (deflecting beam style wrenches are both cheaper and more accurate than a cheap click-type unit, as long as they aren't abused.) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Presa-1-4-in-Drive-0-to-80-in-lbs-Beam-Style-Torque-Wrench-CP31006/206975714?MERCH=REC-_-rv_mobileweb_rr-_-206743985-_-206975714-_-N

Disclaimer here: most of the USPSA and IDPA guys I know pretty much don't look at headstamps. I cull stepped brass at the Bullet-seating station on my progressive (yes this means I just wasted a primer) and otherwise just rattle it all through my 650 at 800 rounds an hour. It's just not worth my time to sit for half an hour and sort a bucket of brass a few times a month. I'd rather pitch a crimped case when it arrives at the priming station (and yes occasionally crush one before I feel it) than sit there shorting headstamps. If I go to Nationals someday, I'll settle on one or two brands of brass and run precisely seated Winchester primers only. But otherwise? You'll be amazed how accurate and reliable ammo can be on match day with a wide mix of brass, internet lore nonwithstanding.

If you do it from the website, just add "drill for BOSS hanger" in the comments field. The BOSS uses the same hole pattern as the blade tech DOH and tek-lok

Or switch to a CZ (small frame).

I am so totally going to start contradicting everything you actually should do. "But Memphis said I should be able to run CCI primers and a 10 pound spring as long as I drill lightening holes in my BOLO to reduce lock time... and he's the one who made the how-to videos so I should obviously trust him over someone who builds them professionally ." MemphisMechanic: Internet Certified Tanfoglio Armorer.

Look on the frame of the press (down low on the right side) for this component. Loosen the two allen head bolts visible in this photo. Cock the black L shaped piece upward as far as you can and slide a small washer or something similar underneath it to brace it in that position (yellow arrow) Tighten the bolts back down. Your priming ram will stick up through the shell plate a bit higher, so you'll need to lower the handle just slightly in order to rotate it by hand from now on, but otherwise operation is identical.

You hadn't. I was simply being polite about wondering when you were going to be proven wrong. Like I said, I stripped my press apart looking for better options than a shim.

You'll improve over the course of months. Tying to pick up noticeable speed within a week of learning to build your grip on the draw, in order to impress guys on the internet? That a recipe to become *that guy* at the shooting range. The one who wants to look like a rockstar so bad he scares the beejezus out of us longtime shooters because he's running and gunning at a near panicked pace and oh! did I just look down the barrel of a gun for a split second? Just focus on building clean smooth fundamentals and try to shoot this first match almost painfully slow. You've built it up into too much of a big thing and you're trying to walk before you run. Be safe. Learn the rules. Get the localscto critique things in person that video doesn't show. *THEN* go home and practice like mad. Learn to do it right. Then work on doing it faster. I didn't listen to this advice and ingrained all kinds of bad habits that took years to truly fix

Now see, with those additional details, it sounds like it's probably indeed an issue with your gun's fitting. Give us all those facts right up front, and we won't have you barking up the wrong tree.

The dillon 650 seating ram is non adjustable per Dillon and per my own disassembly to examine it. Fill me in!

Take the tail that sticks out of the far end of the ruler on your calipers when you open the jaws, and stick it down into primer pocket to measure seating depth.

Background: light-strike city with a 14 pound PD spring in the back. Those are CCI. Even the 16.5lb EGD Medium spring didn't ignite them 100% Foreground: Shimmed the seating bracket on the 650 and tried a batch of Winchesters. Those are all seated .005" - .008" below flush. Ran like a Swiss watch with a 13 pound PD spring. The difference between the two is much more obvious than the photo shows. If they aren't obviously recessed into the case, they're high. Even with CCIs, although those are physically taller so they won't be quite as far down into the hole.

1. Bury your primers. Flush is a light strike waiting to happen. 2. No. I mean it. Stop looking at gun problems when your primers are just barely below flush or even with the case head. It doesn't matter if you Glock/M&P/XD liked your ammo, CZs and Tanfos are going to choke on it. 3. It's not your firing pin. Or your disconnector needing whackadoodled with a dremel. Put the gun down, step away from the punches and hammer, and go seat your damn primers deeper. 4. Dillon 650s suck at seating primers. I love mine too, but it's still true.

They don't. The answer to his question was right here in this thread. I played nice, though.

[double tap]

Yes. That's the lightest I could go and reliably ignite Magnum CCI primers. The EGD Medium spring, as mentioned above, is what you want if you can't overcome the problems posed by your reloading press (not your gun.)

Flush primers were good to go with a striker fired plastic gun. Flush primers are HIGH PRIMERS for a hammer fired one with reduced power springs. Shim the bracket on the frame that your primer seating punch comes down onto. Loosen the bolts, slide a small washer under it, retighten. Now drive your primers home like you're trying to bend your strong mount or rip the press out of the bench. Use calipers to measure how deeply your primers are seated before and after, then shoot a batch of ammo with deeper primers and you should find a big increase in reliability. The 650 does a worse job of seating primers to a fixed depth than any other common press, and those of us who load on one have to accept that fact and run a bit more hammer spring.

Here we go again. Measure your primers. How deeply are they seated? What reloading press are you using?

1. You can polish plastic with a dremel just like you can steel. 2. I like using a heat gun after I'm done and lightly melting the sharp gray edges into something blacker, if you do it just right.

USPSA only, take them off If you sometimes carry it? The above suggestions