grywlfbg

The 104 is .43" lower than the 135 so there really isn't that much of a difference. I just ran the math w/ the JBM calculator and w/ 69gr SMK's and a 200yd zero and there was a .2" difference in drop between the two sights at 300 (with the 135 dropping less) and the 135 is actually closer at 50 and 100 (by .2" and .1" respectively). So making this decision based on which will shoot "flatter" is silly (and should cause you to choose the 135 anyway). As 00 said, figure out which one fits your body and shooting style and use it.

Hmm. Well I just sent my LT-104 back to LaRue to swap it for a 135. I shoot a Burris XTR 1-4 and when doing presentations I was getting some black along the top of the scope. Tried my buddy's Meopta with the same mount and it did the same thing so it's not the scope. I guess that my cheek bones must be larger or lower than other people's. I also have a lot of trouble when trying to shoot uphill when prone. I did some preliminary math and the extra .43" didn't seem to make much difference in ballistics calcs.

If you need a mount as well, LaRue has an XTR and mount combo for ~$750.

I had Dave himself install mine. He only asked for the FCG but I sent the whole receiver (I don't know how to get the FCG out ). I do have the problem of it not locking back when empty but otherwise works perfectly. Anyone have good pictures and/or wants to walk a virgin through how/what to file?

Not sure. I never used the ill in my old one as it was too weak and just received my new one this week. One thing that they did do is change from a CR-2025 battery to a CR-2032 which is larger so will provide more juice. But Idk if the increased ill will negate the larger batt.

Why do you need a round-specific BDC? Just shoot it at various distances and note the holdovers (first ladder mark, second, etc).

Attached are old and new reticle pictures with and without max illumination. Old without ill. Old with ill. New without ill. New with ill.

The BDC part of the reticle is shorter and thinner and gets even thinner as it goes down. I'll try to take a pic when I get home - never tried to use a camera through a scope.... Kurt, the reticle works fine w/o batteries - it'll just show up black instead of glowing red. I've been using the (now) older model for a few months and never even turn the illumination on. So a dead battery won't strand you like an EOTech or Aimpoint. And I like the ladder style reticle as I feel that I can get more accurate holdovers. But clearly "some" people can shoot really well w/ the Meopta or Accupoint reticles. Rennie, let us know if Burris will retrofit older models and for how much $$ - I would like to send my older one back to be "fixed".

Whoa, I ordered a back-up Burris w/ a LaRue SPR in a combo deal from LaRue last week and it's one of the new ones too. Holding them side by side it looks like the BDC reticle has been shortened and made thinner so it's less obtrusive. Also it is definitely brighter (I assumed it was because of an old battery in my old one but I swapped batteries and the new one stayed brighter). I happened to have one of gose's Meopta's here and it's as bright as a Meopta on 6 (Meopta's go to 7). I'll have to try running a practice stage with and without the illumination to see which way works better. I started w/ an EOTech so I like illuminated reticles but I've been shooting the XTR for the last few months and have left the illumination off. The serial # on my older one is: EJ071### The new one is: XC090###

Wow, that's a lot of shotgun. My thumb's going to be sore for sure! Looking forward to it.

Any chance you mis-typed his e-mail address? Give Linda some time to get caught up - she'll fix it. gose and I are in.

JP still does - their Ultra-light 18" is .5 under handguard and .745 in front of gas block. But they do lower the rifling to 1:9 I assume to keep heat build-up down.

Just remember you need some loose weight in the buffer to make sure the bolt locks up. Otherwise the bolt can "bounce" out of battery.

I may be wrong, but that grip just does not look comfortable Yeah, wouldn't run it that way if I had a choice. I need to install an ambi safety in this lower but once you do that you can reach all the controls just fine. I shoot against guys w/ registered AR's that run PG's and it doesn't handicap me. The better shooter will win.

I'm running an 18" JP-15 upper, ultra-light profile, 1:9 twist, rifle-length adjustable gas system. It works fine w/ 55 and 69gr bullets. However I'm thinking about going w/ a JP CTR-02 medium contour 18" 1:8 and make up the weight difference by installing a Clark Custom Carbon Fiber handguard. Here's my current setup:

The 18" UL barrel weighs 10oz more than the 18" medium.

Yeah, thanks for the post. I'm currently using DPMS 45-rounders but have a couple of these on backorder. I agree that the DPMS 45's are too tall to monopod off of and 30's a bit short. Glad to hear that these are a better height. Can I ask how tall you are?

Hey all. Anyone know the schedule and when registration happens? I'm going to be flying in on Friday and need to know if I need to fly in early to reg or if it'll be done on Saturday morning.

This doesn't jive with my experience switching from the JP SS carrier to the Al one (with LMOS buffer and standard rifle spring). I found I needed MORE gas with the AL carrier. My assumption is that the AL carrier doesn't have as much inertia to carry it to the rear of the tube in order to then strip the next round, lock back, etc. Perhaps you could then combine that with a lighter spring?

How is that possible when Leitner Wise (sp?) is building bolts for JP? I've replaced bolts (and carriers) without changing the barrel and never had an issue. I expect now w/ the LW bolt it should last as long as the barrel but I still doubt it's "made" for a specific barrel.

I have one of the early LRP-07's (11/07) w/ a 20" barrel. It definitely out-shoots me. With the "tank" brake and adjustable gas system it still kicks harder than an AR but it's a whole lot less than a bolt-action. I've only shot it to 200yds (that's as far as any of the "close" ranges go around here) and it holds 1 MOA w/ Fed Match 175 (rifle may be capable of more but I'm not). But next wkend I'll be doing a long-range clinic w/ the goal of getting out to 1,000yds. I'm not sure I'm capable of shooting that far but the gun should be (a longer barrel would have been a better choice for long distance but I may do some 3-gunning with it and thought a slightly shorter barrel would be better). So at the end of the day it's a very expensive rifle but I feel it was a good value.

Yeah, I found a used XTR and took the plunge. Illumination is worthless in sunlight - not even worth turning the illumination on if it's sunny. Will try a new battery but I'm not hopeful. LOVE the reticle and the glass is nice and bright. I'm used to using an EOTech so I'll just have to see what my learning curve is for a non-illuminated reticle.

Thanks for the replies all. LaRue is sending 30mm rings so I'll try the SPR-S and see if I can get a reliable sight picture (didn't think about the human factor - was simply thinking about the mechanical aspects around height over bore). I'm not a nose to charging handle person so I don't think the -E will be necessary.

All, I found a good deal on a used Burris XTR14 so I took the plunge. My question now is about mounts. I have a LaRue SPR-S mount that I had purchased for another optic that is currently unused. The SPR-S is .080" lower than the SPR. Will that dramatically change the performance? I would think that the closer you could get the optic to the bore the better off you would be as there would be less bore-offset when transitioning between near and far targets? I can get an SPR but if I can save $200 I'd like to.

Yep. 02 is just the XTR, 03 has the red dot on top. http://www.swfa.com/c-591-burris-xtreme-ta...fle-scopes.aspx Let me know if the illumination is visible in sunlight!