blackstone

are you on a bench or prone?

I've competed with an AR10 in both .308 and .260Rem with a 4-16X scope with a Horus reticle with good success. The accuracy you describe is more than adequate.

Try to sell it as a whole. Try Snipers Hide.

Could be a problem with fitment of trigger pins.

negligible effect.

.300 Win Mag is capable. 338LM is more than capable.

I have competed in PRS matches utilizing an AR10 chambered in .308 and later on chambered in .260 Rem. with very competitive results.

Of course this is a righteous expression here in the US of A. Also like 'Pistolero".

16# is not uncommon.

Badger Ordnance and Ken Farell both make picatinny rail scope bases for the Rem 700. Couple that with a pair of Seekins or Badger low rings and you will be in business.

I saw the movie and apart from some small technical criticisms, felt it tried to convey his story in the book accurately. There was spontaneous and sustained applause at the end. America is hungry for heroes and leaders. The current crop of pygmies, both parties included, seem to be out of touch with the world as it is and infatuated with the world as they wish it was. This is extremely dangerous. Chris Kyle, whatever his foibles, accomplished great deeds of valor, on the battlefield that can not be diminished. He was not a saint but a man with flaws like each of us, perhaps more publicly known now. After seeing the movie was deeply moved by his sacrifice and the sacrifices of all of the men and women and their families, all volunteers, since 9/11.

POF uses Rock 5R barrels which are excellent. They are extremely reliable and have good quality control. I have the .308 with a 16" barrel and it is plenty accurate out to 600 (furhtest distance available to me). I own GA Precision , KAC, and Armalite AR10's. You cant go wrong with a POF.

You can range at any power with a FFP. With a variable power 2nd FP scope, you can only range at max. power, without doing some additional math. Stress plus an additional math step increase the probability of error on your part. More importantly, to me, with a FFP scope, if you miss with your 1st shot, corrections are fast and easy. Let's say you see your first strike at .4 mil.s low and off .2 mil.s left wind. Regardless of your power setting, with a FFP scope, you now hold the above-referenced correction and fire again because what you "see" in the scope is in true mil.s regardless of the power setting. No conversions are necessary. Lastly, make sure your turrets are in tenths of a mil. In the above example, if you wanted to dial your corrections, it is as easy as four clicks up and two clicks of windage and fire again. Front focal plane mil. reticles with one tenth mil. turrets reduce the complexity of quick adjustments under stress.

Add a 20 MOA base if you intend to shoot to 1,000. I like the Accuracy International one piece 20 MOA base and rings. It is very rugged. A Magpul PRS stock is a huge improvement over the A2 for precision shooting. A good trigger is essential. I have tried all of them, I think. The Geissele Super Semi Automatic Enhanced is the best I have found thus far. These are modifications I've made on my AR10's. YMMV

It is not the weapon's operating system that typically is the limiting factor but rather the operator's training and skill level.. In my experience, gas guns are inherently less forgiving than bolt guns, when there is operator error, especially in follow through.

I have both. Kgunz is correct about the simplicity of Savage barrel installation. However, there are more quality stock options for Remington actions.

Blade Tech Kydex Belt mounted pouch is preferable. You can mount one or two, or whatever you need. You can position them wherever you need on your belt to keep them accessible yet not impeding your movement or shooting position. The thigh mounted set-up limits where you can place your mags and is not as accessible as something on your waist. Thigh rigs make the most sense if your belt is full or your other gear/vest make it impractical to reach your waist. I don't like soft pouches like Wilderness because you will have difficulty re-holstering a mag into a soft pouch, one-handed. This is especially true for larger mags like an AR10 mag.

Short answer: It makes no difference as far as any measurable accuracy for any type of shooting I've ever tried. If it bothers you, JP makes a rear tensioning pin that has essentially an eccentric or offset center. You can tighten it and it pulls the upper and lower half together. I stopped using it because you need an allen wrench to separate the upper from the lower and that is not acceptable in the field. I tried it, along with the accu-wedge and could not tell any difference in accuracy. Your mileage may vary.

It shouldn't be too low for a 42mm objective. Here is an informative post on Sniper's Hide regarding this question. http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1433025&page=1 You can read all of it or skip down to the fourth post by Seekins. You are GTG with the low rings.

Use the light weight piston all the time. I never change it. My FNSLP MK 1 runs everything I put in it. Keep the piston clean. Soak it on carbon solvent after heavy use. Run it wet, just like an AR and you'll be fine.

Glock34shooter has it right. I don't even use my rear sight unless I am beyond 50 yards. Simply center the front sight in the center of the groove on the cantilever. Practice different holds until you find the POA that gives the desired results. At 50yd.s my FNSLP shot slugs in groups that touched.

I too, remember the Stone Age of the 3-piece rod. No three-piece rod will be as strong or as true as a one-piece rod. 3-piece rods have sharp edges where the shoulders of the rod sections mate. These sharp edges can't be good for the inside of your barrel. A Bore guide is essential to protect your rifling and guide the jag. Dewey or Tipton rods are excellent. I prefer carbon rods for strength and there is no coating to ever wear off.

I have never used tape of any kind on my scope tube. If the rings need to be lapped, (None of my Badger Rings have ever needed it), due to variances in the receiver, base or the rings themselves, get the appropriate sized lapping bar and lapping compound and do it by hand, a little at a time. You are attempting to simply smooth out the high spots or rough edges. Once you are satisfied that the rings are ready for mounting the scope, clean them and use a very thin film of clear silicone sealant spread evenly on the lower rings. Besides protecting bare metal, it provides a "bedding" of sorts for the scope tube to rest in. It makes for a nice seal and protects the scope tube. When you decide to remove the scope, the the silicone residue can be easily removed.

Don't know about the .22LR conversion but I have had good experience with my POF's. I have torture-tested my 16" 5.56 during a couple of carbine classes at Blackwater with very high round counts and everything from hot and dusty to pouring rain. MY POF ran like a champ while a variety of direct gas impingement carbines experienced various failures as they got really hot and dirty. It is heavier, mainly because of its fore end (which I could do without) and gas piston components. Firing strings or fast pairs requires some getting used to because of the different recoil pulse. But once you get used to that rhythm, you can really rock.

You may want to lightly coat the bottom rings with a very thin film of clear silicone sealant. Not only will it cover any bare metal, it will also provide a thin "bedding" between your rings and the scope tube. I've done this for years and have never had ring marks on my scopes and never had a scope move in the rings.