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mkmckinley

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Everything posted by mkmckinley

  1. Ah understood. Thank you! I always thought that beavertail looked a little weird but I’m sure I could get used to it.
  2. JJ that’s pretty great. What’s that front sight?
  3. Agreed! All the weird old dudes that still want to shoot .40 can shoot limited major amongst themselves, and everyone else can run 9mm. edit: It’s hard to fathom what kind of pathetic loser would edit someone else’s post on an obscure web forum.
  4. They should just make A fudgecicle nobody but a few crayon chewers and winder likkers want its own class, so people who want to shoot a limited style gun but not dick around with .40 can be scored against other minor shooters.
  5. I’m really close to buying one of these. Any updates on hownit’s running for you? Also, how does it handle gunk from the spent cases? Is it easy to clean burnt primer crud every so often?
  6. I got one. Very nicely made. It adds a noticeable amount of weight in a spot that doesn’t interfere with the way the gun swings as much as weight in the dustcover area. It’s good. I even notice a difference between the SSI tungsten and the CHPWS brass.
  7. The Gen 3s weren’t as accurate as the 5. The janky slide lock spring could break pretty easily, deadlining the frame. The grip texture was weak sauce. The finger grooves weren’t my favorite but also weren’t deal breakers. But the biggest thing, the ejection sucked because they didn’t have the breach face cutout that started in the Gen 5.
  8. Excellent, thank you. Looks like most of the parts that would wear or need service are either 1911 or CZ parts. I love that they went with a chassis.
  9. Whoah thanks for posting. That trigger/bow looks a standard 1911 pattern part. Does that appear to be the case?
  10. I had the same experience with lighter recoil springs. I just quit fing with it and went back to stock.
  11. That’s good input, I appreciate learning from your experience. I’m coming from a Super 1050. I run the brass through a processing stage where they get decapped and primer pocket swaged, then rollsized, before even hitting the reloading press. I inspect for stepped brass and primers during rollsizing, and then the decap/swage on the actual reloading stage is there for backup. This has eliminated most problems in my manual reloading on the 1050 except for the occasional flipped/missed primer or jacked up bullet drop. I’ve never had a double charge but I have had one squib. I’ll take your advice and try without sensors and see how it goes. Thanks again.
  12. Looking into an autodrive for my Mark 7 Evo and I can’t decide which sensors to go with. What would you say are the most useful and reliable to get? thanks, Mark
  13. Yeah and for the cost I have a PAL filler and like 30 tubes. I just sit and fill them on the deck while I listen to audible. I like being able to see each and every primer drop in the correct orientation.
  14. A .50 cal ammo can works well. I prefer the MTM Hundred boxes but the dillon ones fit fine.
  15. For some reason I seem to remember $1300 mentioned for these somewhere, but that’s just me talking, not rollsizer. I would probably go for one of these if it’s truly reliable. I could let me decap, then clean the brass including the primer pocket before it ever sees the press.
  16. Thanks for the feedback! It is sort of expensive ($1300 or so shipped) but I paid $3k for a Evo, $1600 for a Super 1050 a few years ago, and $1600 for a rollsizer. The weak link in all of them is the casefeeder. If I can get a big, fast, nasty, 99.99% reliable casefeeder to support all the operations I need it for $1200 is worth the cost.
  17. I’m loading 9x19 and I’m about fed up with my current casefeeder. I’m ready to buy once/cry once if I can get more reliability. The $1200 for the 14” casefeeder that comes on the Mark VIII Revolution would be worth it to me if it’s pretty reliable, for instance no more waterfalls and less than 1:1000 upside down cases, and the ability to fill it with more than two handfuls of cases before the motor stalls out. I’m not too worried about speed, but is this thing pretty reliable? It would be going on a Mark VII Evolution, Dillon Super 1050, and the small motorized Rollsizer. Thanks, Mark
  18. George, Nice setup! Is there a reason you don’t run a “just in case” size/decap in station 2 on the loading cycle?
  19. Glad to hear it! I've learned a lot form the members on here. It seems to be the only forum that discusses loading specifically for the type of loading I do. The whole enterprise is always a work in progress, so if you come up with any tweaks be sure to post! Just to mess around, I did try a full decapping die at station 8 in my 1050. It actually works, you just have to manually flick away a spent primer if it ends up on there.
  20. The CNC toolhead I just got has the recess. I might have gotten the last one he had in stock! That said, the LVL10 Innovations and the Everglades Ammo hold down dies work just fine in the OEM toolhead.
  21. I'm far from an expert but the swage rod does put a fair amount of pressure upward onto the shellplate through the case. Without a hold down you can see the shellplate flex upward as the case rim pushes up against it. I think without a hold down of some sort you would lose the "feel" you get when there's still a primer at station 3 because the shellplate would flex up instead of the swage rod stopping on the spent primer. You also might damage the case rim by jamming it up into the steel shellplate. If I were trying to go without a hold down in station 3 I'd probably do no swage as well, just to be safe. You could do your flaring in station 3 to give some downward pressure on the casing, or you could put a size die (or even a universal decapper sans pin) in that station screwed all the way down to at least put some downward pressure on the shellplate. That is all just just conjecture on my part.
  22. One note I will make on the FW Arms swage backer. Make sure to adjust it so it just barely touches the bottom of the case. It’s possible to screw it in too far and gouge into the bottom of the case. This damages the case by pushing the bottom of the primer pocket down a little.
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