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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

archangel

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About archangel

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    Looks for Range
  • Birthday 12/08/1975

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    MD
  • Real Name
    Peter Bagnell

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  1. Jugs of water? No. A bucket? Maybe....
  2. Update - Little less than 200 rounds of live fire and a bunch of dry fire later, and after replacing my "theoretically sound but still kinda redneck" improvised measuring system with an actual Lyman gauge, it is now registering an average of 5# flat DA, and a hair under 2# SA.
  3. I may play around with the stock hammer and / or remove the RRK, and see what that does - after I replace the punch I broke driving out the hammer pins last time. I'll have some time on the range tomorrow for the first time since installing the upgrades. Depending on how it feels in live fire, I may just live with it.
  4. CGW race hammer. It's the whole CGW Shadow 2 kit. https://cajungunworks.com/product/75800-shadow-s-2-kit/ plus the S-2 Reach Reduction Kit https://cajungunworks.com/product/75850-shadow-2-reach-reduction-kit/
  5. Lol. The picture makes it look round, but it's really not. There's still black finish on the top flat. I polished with 800/1000/1500/2000 grit wet / dry sandpaper, wet with wd40, followed with flitz on a felt wheel. The strut got a lot more time with the 800 than anything else, and probably could have taken some more aggressive grit. The stamping was pretty rough. All the other parts, it was just a couple swipes with 800 to get things started before switching to the finer grits. You may be right about the "luck of the draw" thing. Now that i think of it, I did get a deal on this gun because it was "Blemished." Never could find any blemishes on it. Maybe the DA pull is the the blem...
  6. It's a CGW "super hard" sear, so I would hope that it's hardened deeper than the finish. In any case, I didn't do anything to the sear nose that engages the hammer hooks, mainly just the surface that the hammer drags on as it cocks. Likewise on the hammer, I didn't mess with the hooks themselves, just the flats above the hooks where the sear drags. I did adjust the lifter spring per CGW's specs. Left side - just enough tension to stay in the groove. Right side - about 1/8" above the bottom of the trigger bar.
  7. I have a new Shadow 2, in which I just installed the CGW S2 kit, as well as the S2 Reduced Reach Kit. Using the 11.5# hammer spring. I polished the internals (twice, actually) based on the "CZ Tuning with Professor Atlas" thread, as well as schmecky's thread on smoothing the action on the the czfireams forum. I even polished all the pins and pin holes, the trigger bar lifter spring, the inside and outside of the hammer spring, etc. (Pics of some of the polished parts attached for reference) SA pull is very nice, at ~ 2.75#. The DA pull is... 7.75#. It's very smooth, and I could certainly live with it. I don't really want to go with a lighter hammer spring and risk ignition problems, but I'm seeing guys using the same springs getting ~5.5# What am I missing that's making my trigger 40% heavier than them?
  8. I came close. 125.7 pf with Remington UMC out of a 5" gun.
  9. It's funny. I've asked about this a couple different places, and someone always asks about the collar. The collar is on there. The side saddle is the bolt-through-the-reciever variety, and I did consider that it might be pinching. But by the end of my last shooting session, the bolts were about a turn and a half less than finger tight (ie working themselves loose) so I figure they couldn't have been too terribly tight to begin with. I did the easyloader install myself. I'm pretty sure it was working with the 18" bbl, but I'm going to double check that (among other things) this weekend.
  10. I've got an 11-87 Police model, originally came with an 18" barrel. I've since put a 26" barrel on it. I also put on a scattergun sidesaddle, big charging handle, +5 tube, and a dmw easyloader. Ever putting that stuff on there, it's been short cycling. It will run about 80-90% of the time, but will occasionally stovepipe or close the bolt without feeding the next round. It also will never lock open after the last shot. It does this with every ammo I've tried (a variety of #8 and #7 1/2 shot, full house slugs, and magnum 00. Oddly, the 00 was the worst.) At this point, I'm fairly certain (though not 100%) that it's the gas system. My reasoning is this: The original 18" bbl does not have the gas cylinder spring / pressure regluator thingy. It apparently uses all the gas for cycling the action, like an 1100 would. The newer 26" bbl has the spring. I'm thinking that it's venting off the "excess" gas, and as a result not enough is going into cycling the action. So, does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this? I've considered disabling the pressure regulator system (though all my ideas for doing so are kinda permanent, which would suck if that wasn't the problem). Anyone have any better ideas? Thanks in advance.
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