FN SLP Mk 1 - What Mods and accessories for 3-gun?

[TheDarkOne]

You're not practicing speed reloading with live rounds are you? What if you decide to 'dry fire'?

Just ordered my FN SLP Mark 1.

Thanks for all the contributions!

Yes they are live rounds. Rest assured, however, it is perfectly safe. Weapon is on safe and pointed in a safe direction, live rounds are inserted into the magazine, but never into the chamber. While dummy rounds would be safer, I don't have any problems practicing this way.

[ALBY]

do yourself a favor and invest in some inert shotgun shells.

[ALBY]

has anyone installed the ghost ring sights from the 'short' slp on the mk I ?

I really like the ghost ring sights and find the stock SLP sights to be wholly lacking. my gun shoots slugs about 6 in high at 50 yards, with the rear sight pinned as low as it will bottomed out. on close targets i lose the little fiber bead in recoil.

i have ghost rings on my 870 and LOVE them.

[smokshwn]

ghost ring sights may make you feel more comfortable on the few slug shots in a match, but they will do nothing but slow you down for 90-95% of the other targets in a match.

[DocMedic]

So I finally did it, and did some work on my FNH shotgun.

Nothing to extreme, I might take a little more material off the loading hole and smooth it out even more. I took my shotgun to a local 3gun match and found somethings that I need to work on, first since i cut down the lift gate a bit, it has a higher angle when pushed against the bolt while loading, leading into some of my shells snagging between the top of the bolt and the little gap between the barrel and load tube, while i'm doing a weak-hand reload. Also another interesting problem I was having was since I did a angle cut into the lifter, a few times I'll have a shell push just a little to the right as the bolt pushes the shell forward, and it will catch just the outside of the barrel, not allowing the shell to load in the chamber, Upon further inspection I notice some of the material I cut off the lifter (on the right side) helped aligned the shell strait with the barrel. But since I didn't remove much material on the left side of the lifter which did the same, the shells would every so often get "pushed" to the right a bit, just enough for them to catch the outside edge of the barrel. I might cut down the left side down to even it out with right of the lifter.

Any suggestions from the "Hack Fu's" out there?

Edited June 27, 2010 by DocMedic

[SmurfJet]

Any suggestions from the "Hack Fu's" out there?

I just put a slight radius on the edges of the port and it's been just fine for me.

Edited October 2, 2010 by SmurfJet

[Wormydog1724]

I have an FN SLP MK1 on its way, should be here this week. I plan on going out and shooting a lot of clays to get the feel of it and break it in.

I am very interested in the lifter being welded or if its necessary. My only other experience is with a Benelli Nova and the way the lifter stays up, welding it isn't necessary. I wish the SLP MK1 was the same way.

Also I would like to learn more about the "Sure Cycle" system.

How bout some updates on everybody's SLP's.. (good, bad, and ugly)

[Vespid_Wasp]

You're not practicing speed reloading with live rounds are you? What if you decide to 'dry fire'?

Just ordered my FN SLP Mark 1.

Thanks for all the contributions!

Yes they are live rounds. Rest assured, however, it is perfectly safe. Weapon is on safe and pointed in a safe direction, live rounds are inserted into the magazine, but never into the chamber. While dummy rounds would be safer, I don't have any problems practicing this way.

Pull your charging handle off and then you can't chamber a round.

[Vespid_Wasp]

I have an FN SLP MK1 on its way, should be here this week. I plan on going out and shooting a lot of clays to get the feel of it and break it in.

I am very interested in the lifter being welded or if its necessary. My only other experience is with a Benelli Nova and the way the lifter stays up, welding it isn't necessary. I wish the SLP MK1 was the same way.

Also I would like to learn more about the "Sure Cycle" system.

How bout some updates on everybody's SLP's.. (good, bad, and ugly)

I spent a lot of time a while back practicing keeping my SLP full. I haven't had a chewed up thumb from a lifter for a few months now. I don't think welding it is necessary so long as you use proper technique to keep your thumb out of the forks.

After a few very early hiccups with bulk Winchester ammo, (it ate federal from the get-go), it has run like a scalded cat. I've gone from shotgunning being my weakest link of the three guns to it being arguably my best. The SLP is a great shotgun.

[Wormydog1724]

Picked mine up today,

Hopefully will have time to pop some off later.

[Braxton1]

I just got my lifter back from C-Rums the other day and re-installed it. It makes a heckuva difference to be able to jam shells in quickly without having to worry about the status of my manicure, before or after a practice session. Just stuff and go!

Personally, I think that this is the second-best mod that I've made. (Went with the Vent Rib barrel within a few weeks of purchasing it.)

[rino451]

Personally, I think that this is the second-best mod that I've made. (Went with the Vent Rib barrel within a few weeks of purchasing it.)

Pick up your SLP vr barrel anyplace particular or just found an SX barrel somewhere?

[DanielW]

Wormydog - had mine a couple of months now; its been flawless in both practice and at the couple of matches I've used it in so far. Only mod to date has been to add the Nordic charging handle. Have not yet had a mangled thumb.....but as I speed up reloading, I can see how that could happen, so I may consider the C Rum job in future.

[Wormydog1724]

Thanks guys.

I'm going to pick up a bolt handle and trim the forearm back away from the loading port. I may lightly work the edges of the loading port very very lightly with a dremel. The lifter will stay as is for now.

[TheDarkOne]

Thanks guys.

I'm going to pick up a bolt handle and trim the forearm back away from the loading port. I may lightly work the edges of the loading port very very lightly with a dremel. The lifter will stay as is for now.

I would suggest getting the port professionally done, or just leave it be. Otherwise you will end up with that hacked look, (prime pictorial examples in this thread), and for what? It really won't make a significant difference in the speed of your reloads. Keep you gun pretty, invest in a par timer, and practice practice practice.

[Wormydog1724]

I've done some work myself in the past. As long as I go slow it turns out as desired. Ultimately I'll probably just try to get the sharp edges off the edge(?). Something like docmedics pics on thus page but even less than that.

[TheDarkOne]

I've done some work myself in the past. As long as I go slow it turns out as desired. Ultimately I'll probably just try to get the sharp edges off the edge(?). Something like docmedics pics on thus page but even less than that.

Well, it's your $900, so do with it what you will of course. If you do insist on beveling the mag well, I would at least wait a while before doing it. Get use to loading the gun as is. If the shells don't get caught up on anything, there is no point in beveling anything; if they do, notice where and only bevel those areas. I know the feeling of wanting to get everything modded right away, but there is no rush, so take your time getting to know your weapon system before you start modding anything.

In my opinion, the Nordic charging handle, over-sized bolt release button, and shortening your magazine spring length/tension, will have more payoff than beveling your mag well. No matter what you do though, a fast reload comes down to practice not the mods.

As far as quality of work goes, the true test is handing your gun to someone that is not familiar with it, and them being unable to notice you have done anything to it at all.

[Wormydog1724]

Does the mag spring really need to be shortened?

Mine seems pretty weak already to me.

[TheDarkOne]

Does the mag spring really need to be shortened?

Mine seems pretty weak already to me.

Need to? No, but you can shorten it which will make it a bit easier to load, at least the first 4.

This is something to test yourself and see if it makes a difference for you personally. Get a consistent par time loading the magazine with the spring, then take it out completely and get another consistent par time. If you notice enough of a difference is speed and/or consistency, you may consider snipping a bit off. Just don't cut too much off or those last few shells won't feed properly; cut a little bit, test; cut a little bit more, test. Our guns may be different though, so proceed with caution.

[Braxton1]

We found a dealer that had two left and we snagged 'em both. Apparently, he'd ordered a bunch from FN for some local 3-Gunners. Two of the guys backed out of the deal, so he let us have these for a good deal. They were actual FN barrels, not marked as Winchester, although those would work.

[Wormydog1724]

I'm noticeably slower loading the MK1 compared to my Nova. I practiced a lot with my Nova so I assume I will get faster with the MK1 with practice. I'm going to take your advice and run it for a while before I do anything.

I am pretty nervous about snipping the spring just yet as it is pretty weak already.

Thanks for the replies.

[TheDarkOne]

I'm noticeably slower loading the MK1 compared to my Nova. I practiced a lot with my Nova so I assume I will get faster with the MK1 with practice. I'm going to take your advice and run it for a while before I do anything.

I am pretty nervous about snipping the spring just yet as it is pretty weak already.

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah, take your time, no harm in waiting; the gun will whisper to you what it needs when you are both ready.

Those nordic components are a no brainer though, and they are not that much money. Charging handle is drop in, but the button requires a tap and die.

[Wormydog1724]

Definitely getting the Charging handle. The button will wait. Do you have any videos of you running yours?

[TheDarkOne]

Definitely getting the Charging handle. The button will wait. Do you have any videos of you running yours?

Nothing world class, but here you go...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HrjDER8Qxs

[Wormydog1724]

How do you feel about putting a Burris fastfire II on it? I've seen the guy with the eotech and I tried to put my ACOG on it just for shits but the weaver rail doesn't work. I think the Burris fastfires mount would be low enough that a cheek weld wouldn't be an issue. I know it would put me in open class but still it might be fun to try. Anybody?