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FN SLP Mk 1 - What Mods and accessories for 3-gun?

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Pretty smooth on the reload DarkOne! that's about how fast I am with my nova. I'm gonna need a lot of practice before I'm that smooth with the slp

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There are guys that make me look like my shells are dipped in tar, but thanks. I'm working on speeding things up.

Up to you on red dot. Personally I don't care what division I am in, I shoot what I want to shoot and compare my results with everyone. I'd like to stick a T1 on mine, but can't justify the price right now.

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Thanks guys.

I'm going to pick up a bolt handle and trim the forearm back away from the loading port. I may lightly work the edges of the loading port very very lightly with a dremel. The lifter will stay as is for now.

I would suggest getting the port professionally done, or just leave it be. Otherwise you will end up with that hacked look, (prime pictorial examples in this thread), and for what? It really won't make a significant difference in the speed of your reloads. Keep you gun pretty, invest in a par timer, and practice practice practice.

I think that is more of a function-before-fashion look vs. hacked look. Don't know about others, but I beveled the mag well because that edge can be a tad sharp when weak hand reloading.

If one has the $ to burn on a fastfire, it'd add the button as well.

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Finally got to shoot it. It fed great with Winchester, federal, and Remington. All light loads bulk packs from walmart or academy. Had one hiccup with a Winchester and with one federal. I'm blaming it on those particular shells.

It points awesome and the recoil is surprisingly manageable. I'll be getting that Burris fastfire II this weekend and trying that out with some slugs. I'm an idiot and forgot the slugs at the house so I didn't get to test them today.

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Finally got to shoot it. It fed great with Winchester, federal, and Remington. All light loads bulk packs from walmart or academy. Had one hiccup with a Winchester and with one federal. I'm blaming it on those particular shells.

It points awesome and the recoil is surprisingly manageable. I'll be getting that Burris fastfire II this weekend and trying that out with some slugs. I'm an idiot and forgot the slugs at the house so I didn't get to test them today.

It will loosen up to the point where everything will cycle, so no worries. From the sound of it, your first trip out was a lot better than mine.

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I decided to "re-mod".

(Re-mod = removed enough of my lifter gate so that it will NEVER bite my thumb again!)

I had already removed the points off of the lifter, and I've been using it for about 2 years without any problems, but I recently lost a lot of weight (guess my thumb did too) so the other night it got in there and had a plug taken out. :angry:

I decided to go for broke, and really do some removal. Still seems to function, so I'm good. Had it been rendered inoperable I would have just ordered a new one, and had it welded up.

I've included the injured member in the photograph. My hands are usually clean, that is band-aid residue you see there.

post-11183-041612300 1289523155_thumb.jp

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I decided to "re-mod".

(Re-mod = removed enough of my lifter gate so that it will NEVER bite my thumb again!)

I had already removed the points off of the lifter, and I've been using it for about 2 years without any problems, but I recently lost a lot of weight (guess my thumb did too) so the other night it got in there and had a plug taken out. :angry:

I decided to go for broke, and really do some removal. Still seems to function, so I'm good. Had it been rendered inoperable I would have just ordered a new one, and had it welded up.

I've included the injured member in the photograph. My hands are usually clean, that is band-aid residue you see there.

post-11183-041612300 1289523155_thumb.jp

Ouch, looks like some serious trauma!

On this topic, how much material can you remove before the lifter becomes inoperable? I mean, if it works the way you and some other make them, you have to wonder why the created this sharp forked piece of metal in the first place.

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On this topic, how much material can you remove before the lifter becomes inoperable?

I sat down with a lamp shining in there, and a shotshell on the lifter, and just watched as I slowly cylced the bolt back and forth, with the shell riding up the lifter into the chamber, I took notice of where the shell was actually touching, and cut there.

If you look down at the top of the lifter (where the shell would ride) there is a little "divit" for lack of a better word, where the lifter starts to get thinner as you progress toward the end. That is the last place on the FLOOR of the lifter that the shell touched while cycling. Seems that the reason it starts to get thin there is the lifter would be "in the way" if it stayed thick all the way out.

The shell does contact the side of the lifter (there is a little lip there on the right side), so no removal there.

I went:

1- angle grinder

2- dremel cutoff wheel

3- 220 grit paper

4- 400 grit paper

5- 600 grit paper

6- 1000 grit paper

7- 1500 grit paper

8- 6 inch buffer/polisher with green compound

This slicked it right up, and I am happy. I just can't wait until my thumb gets back to normal!

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I placed an order through Midway USA for an Improved Cylinder Briley Invector choke and a Nordic oversized charging handle. Hopefully it will be here by Saturday for the Pro-Am at USSA.

Is IC ok? Or should I have looked around some more for an LM?

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I decided to "re-mod".

(Re-mod = removed enough of my lifter gate so that it will NEVER bite my thumb again!)

I had already removed the points off of the lifter, and I've been using it for about 2 years without any problems, but I recently lost a lot of weight (guess my thumb did too) so the other night it got in there and had a plug taken out. :angry:

I decided to go for broke, and really do some removal. Still seems to function, so I'm good. Had it been rendered inoperable I would have just ordered a new one, and had it welded up.

I've included the injured member in the photograph. My hands are usually clean, that is band-aid residue you see there.

post-11183-041612300 1289523155_thumb.jp

I have seen a couple of pics of the various bevel jobs on the FN's in this thread. Is that the end of the shell follower showing just below the bevel at the back of the forend?

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Is that the end of the shell follower showing just below the bevel at the back of the forend?

Yes it is. There is a lip that runs around the entire tube (as opposed to a bump on some SG) as long as you leave some of it on each side, then the follower stays put. IOW, only grind out the bottom of the tube.

And, I gotta confess, that I went back and took it all the way to the forend, so you can see even more of the follower now. Function is still fine, and I can load it faster than ever, with zero risk of the above injury. I was having some shells jump out on the lifter while loading (I know it was my technique), but this little mod helps ensure seating of the shell past the catch.

Check it out, my thumb is better

post-11183-012979300 1290473834_thumb.jp

Just to add, it looks like a hack job, but I actually planned every single bit of removal very carefully, and the gun still functions 100%, this was my first experience of "removing metal" on any gun, so it was kind of like an experiment.

I guess you gotta start somewhere. Had I owned a welder, I would have tried to weld it, but as it is, I only have grinding/polishing stuff....so, there ya go.

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Is that the end of the shell follower showing just below the bevel at the back of the forend?

Yes it is. There is a lip that runs around the entire tube (as opposed to a bump on some SG) as long as you leave some of it on each side, then the follower stays put. IOW, only grind out the bottom of the tube.

And, I gotta confess, that I went back and took it all the way to the forend, so you can see even more of the follower now. Function is still fine, and I can load it faster than ever, with zero risk of the above injury. I was having some shells jump out on the lifter while loading (I know it was my technique), but this little mod helps ensure seating of the shell past the catch.

Check it out, my thumb is better

post-11183-012979300 1290473834_thumb.jp

Just to add, it looks like a hack job, but I actually planned every single bit of removal very carefully, and the gun still functions 100%, this was my first experience of "removing metal" on any gun, so it was kind of like an experiment.

I guess you gotta start somewhere. Had I owned a welder, I would have tried to weld it, but as it is, I only have grinding/polishing stuff....so, there ya go.

Thanks, that just what I needed to know.

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I just wanted to add my forened and loading port modifications as as well. I didn't remove a tremendous amount of material, but enough, in my opinion, to smooth things up a little bit. As one can see, the forks of the lifter have been smoothed and polished as well.

loadport.jpg

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I was told by the factory rep in Northern Virginia, that the pistol grip for the SLP Mk1 are being released in mid January on new shotguns, how long it will be until pistol grip is released for aftermarket was not answered.

The opinion was that it will be awhile until demand for the new shotguns with the pistol grip is met, then FN will be able to address the aftermarket.

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+1 on the C-Rums. What length VR barrel did you get for your SLP?

I just got my lifter back from C-Rums the other day and re-installed it. It makes a heckuva difference to be able to jam shells in quickly without having to worry about the status of my manicure, before or after a practice session. Just stuff and go!

Personally, I think that this is the second-best mod that I've made. (Went with the Vent Rib barrel within a few weeks of purchasing it.)

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+1 on the C-Rums. What length VR barrel did you get for your SLP?

I just got my lifter back from C-Rums the other day and re-installed it. It makes a heckuva difference to be able to jam shells in quickly without having to worry about the status of my manicure, before or after a practice session. Just stuff and go!

Personally, I think that this is the second-best mod that I've made. (Went with the Vent Rib barrel within a few weeks of purchasing it.)

I am having trouble finding info on C-Rums. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

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+1 on the C-Rums. What length VR barrel did you get for your SLP?

I just got my lifter back from C-Rums the other day and re-installed it. It makes a heckuva difference to be able to jam shells in quickly without having to worry about the status of my manicure, before or after a practice session. Just stuff and go!

Personally, I think that this is the second-best mod that I've made. (Went with the Vent Rib barrel within a few weeks of purchasing it.)

I am having trouble finding info on C-Rums. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks.

PM sent.

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How do you feel about putting a Burris fastfire II on it? I've seen the guy with the eotech and I tried to put my ACOG on it just for shits but the weaver rail doesn't work. I think the Burris fastfires mount would be low enough that a cheek weld wouldn't be an issue. I know it would put me in open class but still it might be fun to try. Anybody?

I've got an Aimpoint on mine and really like it. I'm a left-eye dominant right handed shooter so red dot sights are a godsend for me. I'm just shooting against myself in local matches so the Open thing isn't an issue for me.

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Thought I would share my lifter mods. I have not seen any like it. I have a great gunsmith who worked with me on it. Here are the mods:

1. Welded and extended

2. Milled slot

3. Inside right vertical lip built up in order to prevent shells from kicking left (can't be seen in photo)

I have worked on the chamber extractor grove, magazine tube, recoil spring, handguard and loading port.

Cheers,

Kyle

post-21212-082615500 1294290886_thumb.jp

post-21212-023127200 1294290906_thumb.jp

Edited by DocMcG

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Looks like a clean job Doc. That seems to be the amount of work I want to do to mine, but I have been too scared to grind on the new shotgun.

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