fastarget Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Not sure if this counts as an SLP mod, but I switched from a 26" barrel on my Winchester SX 3 to a 24" vent ribbed SLP barrel. The SLP barrel works fine on the Winchester and handles better. I'm still getting adjusted to the switch from a Benelli, and the slugs impact high at 50 and 75 yards,but I think it ultimately will work out better. [a quote] Anyone else switch to a 24 (from 22 or 26+)? and your impressions.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Bond Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 Looks like a clean job Doc. That seems to be the amount of work I want to do to mine, but I have been too scared to grind on the new shotgun. I stay away from the Dremel Tool! I do it all with files and stones. Sometimes I go to far too fast with power tools! I felt the same way, but no fear now. Just go slow! Cheers, Kyle Mark Roth of xrail by RCI has a better solution than welding. Doc, can we get a picture of the lifter from the top side? (Take it out of the gun) Looks awesome BTW. Thanks. You Bet! Thanks for the compliment, but Michael Shumaker is the man and he should get the credit! He did a great job and stuck with the project until it worked 100% of the time! Here are the photos you requested. Cheers, Kyle Anyone know what the turn-around time is to weld up a gate....I might have gotten myself in a jam...just received my SLP today, and yes the thumb eating gate makes it difficult to load, BUT I have a match march 5th Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biga9999 Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 C-rums did mine in 2-3 weeks. But he did a few other mods as well. Looks like a clean job Doc. That seems to be the amount of work I want to do to mine, but I have been too scared to grind on the new shotgun. I stay away from the Dremel Tool! I do it all with files and stones. Sometimes I go to far too fast with power tools! I felt the same way, but no fear now. Just go slow! Cheers, Kyle Mark Roth of xrail by RCI has a better solution than welding. Doc, can we get a picture of the lifter from the top side? (Take it out of the gun) Looks awesome BTW. Thanks. You Bet! Thanks for the compliment, but Michael Shumaker is the man and he should get the credit! He did a great job and stuck with the project until it worked 100% of the time! Here are the photos you requested. Cheers, Kyle Anyone know what the turn-around time is to weld up a gate....I might have gotten myself in a jam...just received my SLP today, and yes the thumb eating gate makes it difficult to load, BUT I have a match march 5th Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Anyone know what the turn-around time is to weld up a gate....I might have gotten myself in a jam...just received my SLP today, and yes the thumb eating gate makes it difficult to load, BUT I have a match march 5th Two-weeks on Shumaker is the typical turn-around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 Anyone know what the turn-around time is to weld up a gate....I might have gotten myself in a jam...just received my SLP today, and yes the thumb eating gate makes it difficult to load, BUT I have a match march 5th Two-weeks on Shumaker is the typical turn-around I ventured and smoothed very lightly the sharp edges on the gate and have not had any problems as others, I load weak hand but must hold my thumb differently..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pirate Gunner Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Looking for anyone who has a solution for the receoil spring. Does it need to be changed out for 3 gun light loads or just cut a few coils off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benl Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Not to beat a dead horse, but has anyone tried sanding the sharp edges of the load gate with fine paper? Mine cut the $#!+ out of my thumb, so I need to do something, but already have three 3 Gun matches scheduled for April (no time for welding.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kang8r Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 (edited) In reply to Fastarget, I recently switched to a 24" barrel on my SLP. Overall, I like the vent rib barrel over the standard SLP barrel. It is definitely lighter and seems to transition faster. I use the TriViz front sight which works well for the slugs. POI at 50yds is pretty much dead on using a LM choke. I'm going to see what it will do with slugs at 100yds this weekend in prep for the BRM3G. Edited March 25, 2011 by Kang8r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Kang8r, did you have a dealer order the barrel? cost if you dont mind. Invector+ I would assume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kang8r Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Here ya go........ http://www.arizonagunrunners.net/Products/FNMfng/fnmfng.html Look under FN shotgun acessories. Kang8r, did you have a dealer order the barrel? cost if you dont mind. Invector+ I would assume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Thank you for the link, much appreciated. Keep us informed about how well you are doing.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Looking for anyone who has a solution for the receoil spring. Does it need to be changed out for 3 gun light loads or just cut a few coils off? Per suggestion of Tod Litt: Cut the tubular magazine spring. (This makes reloads softer. There should be a minimum of 12" of spring hanging out of the front (Fore not aft) end of the magazine tube after you cut it. Many say to buy an extra spring and keep it with you just incase after making this mod.) Cheers, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I think he was asking about the recoil spring........I would not cut the recoil spring. The question is how light of a load are you shooting really. Our guns (2 MK1s) cycle 2 3/4 grain 1 1/8 load flawlessly after initial cleaning and good lube. Any lighter (how are you knocking down steel?) you would need to get the available lighter gas piston designed for winchesters or brownings available from brownells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 I think he was asking about the recoil spring........I would not cut the recoil spring. The question is how light of a load are you shooting really. Our guns (2 MK1s) cycle 2 3/4 grain 1 1/8 load flawlessly after initial cleaning and good lube. Any lighter (how are you knocking down steel?) you would need to get the available lighter gas piston designed for winchesters or brownings available from brownells. OOPS! It does help to slow down and read doesn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RufDog Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 Looking for anyone who has a solution for the receoil spring. Does it need to be changed out for 3 gun light loads or just cut a few coils off? I have 2 SX2s & ordered the light 12/20ga recoil spring for one & put a surcycle in the other (with the light spring). It cycles most ammo to include 3/4, 7/8, 1oz ammo. How do you put down steel???? use an appropriate shell for it that corresponds with distance and choke...... good question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrt4me Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Thanks for the compliment, but Michael Shumaker is the man and he should get the credit! He did a great job and stuck with the project until it worked 100% of the time! Cheers, Kyle Where in Stephenville is Michael Schumaker's shop located? I'll be heading there next weekend for the TacPro 3-Gun match and would like to stop by... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HadleyOwens Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Is the lifter on the SLP stainless or mild steel? Going to weld it up myself...not for sure on the composition. Thanks, Hadley O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocMcG Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Thanks for the compliment, but Michael Shumaker is the man and he should get the credit! He did a great job and stuck with the project until it worked 100% of the time! Cheers, Kyle Where in Stephenville is Michael Schumaker's shop located? I'll be heading there next weekend for the TacPro 3-Gun match and would like to stop by... He is just west of town on Hwy 377, about 3 miles out. His shop is in Star Arms Gun Shop. Both are nice places to visit and buy! Schumaker is usually not in on Saturdays unless you make an appointment. I would call or email if you are coming in on Friday. Cheers, Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lisa C Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Is there a gunsmith, anywhere from San Diego County to Corona, who could make modifications to my new FN-SLP Mk1? That would be beveling the lift/gate, U-shaped edge and hopefully, be able to shorten the butt stock. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmanP Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Your best bet is to send those parts out to have them done by one of the two people that have done a great many for the people here. I had mine done by Crums and very happy. Turn around was pretty fast as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrt4me Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 (edited) we will call Michael Shumaker and see whether we can drop in to Shumaker Gun Works or Star Arms Gun Shop this coming weekend... Edited January 9, 2012 by hrt4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Absolut_Zero Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Was there ever an answer here as to the best "big bolt release" button question? It seems like everything recommended was a rigged up Benelli button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt1911 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Was there ever an answer here as to the best "big bolt release" button question? It seems like everything recommended was a rigged up Benelli button. I like Arredondo (think I'm spelling that right???) The part says it's for a Benelli, but really it could go on almost anything because you have to drill and tap for a screw so it's not like it has some weird tab hanging off or anything that would make it specific for Benelli. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 All I have seen is home made buttons and the Nordic. I have the Nordic on both of mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 I've used Arredondos and Nordics. Prefer the Nordic because sometimes an Arrendondo will loosen up and go "off-kilter" (not straight) with use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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