rino451

I am having trouble finding info on C-Rums. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks. PM sent.

bolt release

I would suggest getting the port professionally done, or just leave it be. Otherwise you will end up with that hacked look, (prime pictorial examples in this thread), and for what? It really won't make a significant difference in the speed of your reloads. Keep you gun pretty, invest in a par timer, and practice practice practice. I think that is more of a function-before-fashion look vs. hacked look. Don't know about others, but I beveled the mag well because that edge can be a tad sharp when weak hand reloading. If one has the $ to burn on a fastfire, it'd add the button as well.

Pick up your SLP vr barrel anyplace particular or just found an SX barrel somewhere?

Mesa Tactical http://mesatactical.com/ Wow! Their site didn't lead me to believe that they took retail orders. I've been waiting for online vendors to list them. just ordered. Thanks!

Where are you guys picking up these slp side saddles?

Don't know about the spring retainer, but for $16 you can get an Nordic follower from Cactus Tactical.

Good info! I was beginning to think that I was dreaming. I might have to drum up a sacrificial 870 to see whether I can figure out the technical aspects. The specifics appear to be a closely help secret.

If the hammer's down, the gun ought to be unlocked and just waiting for you to realize it and get to pumpin'. :-) I haven't heard of such as mod. I wonder if this mod is something that will make the 870 run like an old Ithaca (hold the trigger down and pump as fast as you can go. One pump, one shot. I'll see whether I can find the thread and post it up. I stumbled upon the thread twice now (reading about SLP stuff most likely) and it's finally piqued my interest.

I saw someone on this forum allude to what is in effect a "speed pump" mods for the 870. Is this just BS/wishful thinking?

Just wanted to add that the CRum carrier weld up is GTG. Now to add the Benelli button.

Completely disassemble it and clean and lube it. I only have just short of 300 shells through mine, but besides 5 slugs, it's all been flavors of he crap bulk pack stuff -win universal, fed, and rem. It has never missed a beat so far which can't be said for my two 870expresses and 870p.

I administer 30+ blackberries and a dozen iPhones are work, and IMO, the Droid kills them both. I refused both the Bb and iPhone (free to me) and carried a regular flip phone until we got an android. I feel it's the only of the bunch that actually is a decent phone and handles email really well,not to mention internet browsing and Alps.

Yes, I am a smart ass most of the time. There data must have changed because I run 25 grains of TAC with a 69 grain Nosler, remington brass, and CCI primers and get 2925fps I think it used to be the Max load. I will have to look at the Exterminator load I use for all of my 55's. I get around 3150. I run 25.5 gr TAC behind Hor. 55 fmj's with cci 41 and 400 primers. I also run 25 gr TAC behind m855 62 gr pulled bullets. Both appear to be fairly mild, but the 62 gr stuff can loosen primer pockets on crappy brass (adcom iirc). Neither is particularly accurate in my 1/9 barrels. I've had plans to bump the charges up a little, but for blasting ammo, it seems ok. Varget otoh, rocks but is very temp sensitive ime.

IDPA Rulebook

Nother bump for info...

Yea, that's the question, pinned or something else. I want to leave enough of it to act as a base for a jpoint or other mrd, while retaining the fold down rear sight.

I appreciate that. I have a smoothbore cantilever which I might sacrifice before I wreck my rifled barrel.

I finally found a rifled cantilever barrel for my slp and wondered whether anyone knew how the rail is attached to the barrel. My idea is to mill the rail off level with the top of the existing dovetail for the fold down rear sight and either dovetail (add a 2nd dovetail) it for use with one of the pistol mounting plates for mini red dots made by Trijicon, C-more, JPoint - or - if the remaining new base is wide and deep enough, drill and tap it and use through bolts and bolt the sight directly to the barrel. Sound feasible? My only other concern which might make it all moot is the issue of heat. Being directly over the chamber, do you think that you could generate enough heat to torch a Dr. Optic or similar? Basically, I"m looking to replicate the melt-in install you see done one handgun slides using the existing cantilever material. Thanks! Randall

I finally found a rifled cantilever barrel for my slp and wondered whether anyone knew how the rail is attached to the barrel. My idea is to mill the rail off level with the top of the existing dovetail for the fold down rear sight and either dovetail (add a 2nd dovetail) it for use with one of the pistol mounting plates for mini red dots made by Trijicon, C-more, JPoint - or - if the remaining new base is wide and deep enough, drill and tap it and use through bolts and bolt the sight directly to the barrel. Sound feasible? My only other concern which might make it all moot is the issue of heat. Being directly over the chamber, do you think that you could generate enough heat to torch a Dr. Optic or similar? Basically, I"m looking to replicate the melt-in install you see done one handgun slides using the existing cantilever material. Thanks! Randall

I'm pretty sure that the win sx2, SLP, and the Gold all share barrels, but I haven't seen anywhere explicitly say that the 3" gold barrels will fit the SLP. Can someone confirm? Thanks!

I've used a Bushie 16" superlight on a Cav lower. VERY light set up. For a 16" light barrel, chrome lining will affect accuracy enough to be of concern. a 16" superlight isn't, chrome or not, isn't what one would consider a precision barrel. That said, canyou shoot beyond the accuracy or a m4 profile or gov't profile barrel with your ammo?

I got an LNL AP and case feeder about 18 months ago. Frankly, I'd get my $ back on the case feeder. Worked for about 6 months, now the plates keep riding up over the cases in the bowl. The bowl is made of flimsy plastic which I suspect has sagged under it's own weight, causing the problem. Randall