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It is the Tanfo Paradox. To get that magic trigger pull a sacrifice must be made.

For some that sacrifice might be an investment in a new Dillon S1050. For others it may be Federal Small Pistol primers. Still others may have to be content with a plus eight pound DA trigger pull. 

No one ever said it was easy.

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Hi guys,

I re-examined the FP block on the advice of SoCalshooter69 and there does seem to be some irregular wear in a couple spots. Im going to remove it and run 100 rds through it today and report back. Outside of that, im considering the BOLO adjustment to increase the hammer travel and also curious if anyone has any feedback/recommendation in regards to the PD extended firing pin...i think it claims to be 20% longer than the Henning/Extreme/stock options out there.

 

-Chase

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I use the PD firing pin in one gun and the Henning in another. No problems with either. I'm using a 12lb hammer spring in both. Was using a 13 and getting light strikes before I followed the forum recommendation of seating the primers balls deep.


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I load with 650 and Mark7 auto drive.  I set seating depth to 0, which is the deepest setting.  

 

My sporadic light strikes in fact had nothing to do with ammo, though I do agree that most light strikes are due to primer seating issues.  

 

I filed down BOLO from 0.492'' to 0.358'' and the sporadic light strikes on SB primers are totally gone now.  I am very happy and really appreciate that PD provided the BOLO adjustment tutorial.

 

BTW - I do use Titan hammer and Xtreme firing pin (you can use PD firing pin too) and extended firing block.  I believe these 3 are critical to ensure 100% ignition of WSP/SB primers with a <2lbs SA and <5lbs DA. 

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23 minutes ago, kujo929 said:

I use the PD firing pin in one gun and the Henning in another. No problems with either. I'm using a 12lb hammer spring in both. Was using a 13 and getting light strikes before I followed the forum recommendation of seating the primers balls deep.


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Excuse me, but would balls deep be .005, .006, or .008 deep?  :lol:

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5 hours ago, leemoe83 said:

Dude has a 15.5 lb spring, it should light Winchester, CCI, anything American.  His gun is messed up, plan and simple.  You will never deform a primer to that depth with a 650 but pushing real hard does insure it is seated all the way and makes a difference.  Your suggestion is a $1700 dollar fix that doesn't fix the actual problem.

 

For most people that want to plug and play, and don't have the want or ability to fine tune their gun, yes, a 1050 OR LOADMASTER is the appropriate action. Cam we get this figured out, sure - but you're missing the point. Chase isn't fine tuning his gun; he just wants to shoot it... reliably. 

 

If it's not the block, than likely the bolo mod will fix it - but that mod will mask an ammo issue also... dont forger that.

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I'm at the range now and so far not very happy with what I'm seeing...50 rounds in, all in double action, 1/10 shots has been a light strike (5/50) I currently have the FP block removed so I think I can safely assume that's not the culprit. I did find some rounds with flush or higher primers, but guess what...they have all lit off in DA :blink:

not sure if I should waste any more time/ammo here before trying to tune the BOLO/sell my 650/buy 1050. FML

 

-chase

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Final results from the range testing, all strings were fired in DA only including the one string fired from my practice gun:

  • 1st string= 1/10 LS
  • 2nd string= 1/10 LS
  • 3rd string= 1/10 LS
  • 4th string= 1/10 LS
  • 5th string= 1/10 LS
  • 6th string= 0/10 LS
  • 7th string= 0//10 LS
  • 8th string (practice gun)= 1/10 LS
  • 9th string=0/10 LS
  • 10th string= 1/10 LS
  • 11th string= 1/5 LS
  • 12th string= 0/5 LS

To me this shows that this is definitely an ammo/primer seating issue. Im going to try the BOLO adjustment for now while i research options on possibly selling the 650 and either taking the plunge into a 1050 or loadmaster press.

 

-Chase

 

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Wait. You have flush primers with Winchesters?

 

I have my 650s primer ram shimmed further upward and it consistently drives Winchesters in at least .005" below flush. 

 

Take the little metal bracket that the primer punch / ram comes down onto and slide a thin washer underneath it, then reinstall it. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do.

 

Try that first and see if it works.

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13 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Wait. You have flush primers with Winchesters?

 

I have my 650s primer ram shimmed further upward and it consistently drives Winchesters in at least .005" below flush. 

 

Take the little metal bracket that the primer punch / ram comes down onto and slide a thin washer underneath it, then reinstall it. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do.

 

Try that first and see if it works.

 

Aw, c'mon Memphis. We've just about got him talked into a new ten-fiddy.  :lol:

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17 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Wait. You have flush primers with Winchesters?

 

I have my 650s primer ram shimmed further upward and it consistently drives Winchesters in at least .005" below flush. 

 

Take the little metal bracket that the primer punch / ram comes down onto and slide a thin washer underneath it, then reinstall it. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do.

 

Try that first and see if it works.

Thanks Memphis,

when you have a sec can you take a look and let me know if this is correct? Also (noob question) how do I measure the primer depth on a case?

 

-Chase

IMG_0206.JPG

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Is there anyway to adjust primer depth on a 550? Someone has to have some tricks up their sleeve. Only thing I can think of would be to weld on the primer seating punch itself and grind flush to add .005 or so

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1 hour ago, ClintMorris said:

Is there anyway to adjust primer depth on a 550? Someone has to have some tricks up their sleeve. Only thing I can think of would be to weld on the primer seating punch itself and grind flush to add .005 or so

I'm interested in this mod too if it does exist.

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1 hour ago, R1valdez said:

I'm interested in this mod too if it does exist.

I'm not sure if one does. The remedy might just be "push harder" when seating primers, which I have done, but still can't get the primers that deep.

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18 hours ago, chaserracer said:

Thanks Memphis,

when you have a sec can you take a look and let me know if this is correct? Also (noob question) how do I measure the primer depth on a case?

 

-Chase

IMG_0206.JPG

 

Nailed it. That's exactly right.

 

As @johnbu stated, open the jaws of your digital calipers up. See that tail that sticks out the far end of the ruler? That's for measuring the depth of a hole. Use it to see how deeply primers are seated.

 

Get used to operating your press so that Winchester primers are .005"+ below flush. I find it really helps consistency to have your bench screwed into the wall studs so there's absolutely zero shifting when you cycle the handle.

 

CCI primers are physically taller, so they won't be recessed as far into the case when fully seated. Just so you know.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Be careful that you don't go too deep. 

I noticed a ring appear on the outer edge of my Winchester primers the deeper I seated them. This is the primer bottoming out in the cup and what you are seeing is the indentation of the primer punch. 

This action can possibly crush the primer and ruin it. There must be an adequate amount of space between the bottom of the primer cup (inside), and the anvil, for the primer to detonate when it is struck by the firing pin.

As a matter-of-fact, however, this may be a good way to find the correct seating depth. I have backed off my adjustment to the point where the indentation has just disappeared, and I will report back later with the results.

Also. We may asking more than our little Tanfos are able to give us. If my gun has trouble with primers seated to within .005 to .006 deep, then I plan to go from the 13 pound hammer spring to the 15.5 and see where that leads.

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1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Nailed it. That's exactly right.

 

As @johnbu stated, open the jaws of your digital calipers up. See that tail that sticks out the far end of the ruler? That's for measuring the depth of a hole. Use it to see how deeply primers are seated.

 

Get used to operating your press so that Winchester primers are .005"+ below flush. I find it really helps consistency to have your bench screwed into the wall studs so there's absolutely zero shifting when you cycle the handle.

 

CCI primers are physically taller, so they won't be recessed as far into the case when fully seated. Just so you know.

 

Yes I know how to measure primer depth, the press is bolted to a butcher block counter top, press is tight and zero shift. Consistently get .001 above to .001 below using CCI. But I was unaware that CCI are taller than Winchester. Which I imagine is why I'm overthinking seating these deeper. Sounds like I need to get some Winchester and retest. Just have another 13k CCI I was trying to go through first while fighting the 1/100 light strike. 

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23 minutes ago, MikieM said:

Be careful that you don't go too deep. 

I noticed a ring appear on the outer edge of my Winchester primers the deeper I seated them. This is the primer bottoming out in the cup and what you are seeing is the indentation of the primer punch. 

This action can possibly crush the primer and ruin it. There must be an adequate amount of space between the bottom of the primer cup (inside), and the anvil, for the primer to detonate when it is struck by the firing pin.

As a matter-of-fact, however, this may be a good way to find the correct seating depth. I have backed off my adjustment to the point where the indentation has just disappeared, and I will report back later with the results.

Also. We may asking more than our little Tanfos are able to give us. If my gun has trouble with primers seated to within .005 to .006 deep, then I plan to go from the 13 pound hammer spring to the 15.5 and see where that leads.

 

I call it the ring of success. Guaranteed ignition.  

20161130_190712.jpg

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