Tanfoglio Stock II light Strikes

[ryridesmotox]

2 hours ago, ARMAGEDON said:

Thanks.   I recently bought the new extended firing pin from PD and the short spring from them.   I was having way less light strikes with the 14lb hammer spring from PD but still having a few light strikes.   Using reloaded ammo using Federal and Winchester primers.

I just changed it to the 13lb from Wolff and finally is shooting a 100%.   Even do is 13lb it hits harder than the 14lb from PD in my opinion.   I'm no expert but that is my experience

Who is reloading them? you need to make sure primers are seated below flush. The wolff springs stack up and bind at the end of their stroke so that's why they hit hard. I've run them in the Tanfos as well, before the PD springs. Heck I think we all have. The PD springs will stack less overall, or there will be no stack. Make sure your chosen rounds pass plunk then go from there with different springs and such. If you got your barrel back from Bevin, it should be able to plunk anything that will fit in the magazine.

[taxil343]

I am brand new to Tanfos as well, also coming from a polymer gun. Today was my first time shooting/testing the gun and a few loads. Gun is currently set up with PD firing pin and spring, xtreme fps, PD 12lb hammer spring, bolo, titan, xtreme trigger bar and sear, PD sear and trigger return springs and an 18lb henning plunger spring. I have done what I thought was a good job of polishing everything as outline in several threads on here, nearly three weeks worth doing a couple of small parts each night, and ended up with a 5.5/2.5lb trigger. I have read numerous times about how perfect ammo needs to be for some of these thing to run well so I decided to work up some test loads on the old single stage to rule out ammo related issues. All primers, CCI and Winchester, were seated .004"-.010" using a hand primer and then checking each one with calipers. All rounds were loaded to 1.100" OAL and every one passed plunk. DA ignition with Winchester primers was 80% with all but one round igniting on a second strike. DA ignition with CCI was 70% with most rounds igniting on the second strike and all but one igniting on the third. One of each failed to ignite in both DA and SA after at least 10 strikes. I assumed that the henning plunger spring was the culprit so I swapped it for the factory spring to no avail. Any ideas on what may be causing the problem? I am going to remove the fps and try again tomorrow. 

[emjei]

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[emjei]

I am brand new to Tanfos as well, also coming from a polymer gun. Today was my first time shooting/testing the gun and a few loads. Gun is currently set up with PD firing pin and spring, xtreme fps, PD 12lb hammer spring, bolo, titan, xtreme trigger bar and sear, PD sear and trigger return springs and an 18lb henning plunger spring. I have done what I thought was a good job of polishing everything as outline in several threads on here, nearly three weeks worth doing a couple of small parts each night, and ended up with a 5.5/2.5lb trigger. I have read numerous times about how perfect ammo needs to be for some of these thing to run well so I decided to work up some test loads on the old single stage to rule out ammo related issues. All primers, CCI and Winchester, were seated .004"-.010" using a hand primer and then checking each one with calipers. All rounds were loaded to 1.100" OAL and every one passed plunk. DA ignition with Winchester primers was 80% with all but one round igniting on a second strike. DA ignition with CCI was 70% with most rounds igniting on the second strike and all but one igniting on the third. One of each failed to ignite in both DA and SA after at least 10 strikes. I assumed that the henning plunger spring was the culprit so I swapped it for the factory spring to no avail. Any ideas on what may be causing the problem? I am going to remove the fps and try again tomorrow. 

Perhaps a heavier Hammer Spring

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[MemphisMechanic]

You have two choices.

1) Load ammo much more meticulously. "Below flush" isn't good enough for a 12 pound hammer spring and Winchester Primers. They need to be 100% at full depth 100% of the time with Winchester primers.

2) Make the gun hit harder. The 14 pound PD hammer spring and PD firing pin would probably run 100%...

With primer seating like yours and much harder CCI primers, PD doesn't currently make a spring heavy enough to run my gun 100%. I had to install a 15.5ish lb EGD Xtreme Medium spring to light my "worst case scenario" ammo. This also brought my DA pull to 7.1 pounds. Hopefully when PD comes out with a 15.5 hammer spring it'll still hit hard without stacking as badly, and drop me back down around 6.5 pounds.

A Wolff 13 or 14 pound spring would definitely run your gun 100% with Winchesters that aren't buried at ful depth. 

Edited January 9, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[mfs]

On Wednesday, December 21, 2016 at 7:03 PM, ryridesmotox said:

The extended firing pin block is required with the one piece sear. Otherwise 4th block will not block the pin. The two piece sear interacts with the block differently. 

You need to send the barge into Bevin Grams to have it reamed. That will be the end of light strikes.

Bevan is 6 to 8 weeks waiting on tooling to come back.  I think there were so many barrels sent in that the reefer were worn out

[johnbu]

Reefer??

I thought it was a reamer.  then again   maybe they were hitting the reefer when they were machining the barrels?

[taxil343]

39 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

You have two choices.

1) Load ammo much more meticulously. "Below flush" isn't good enough for a 12 pound hammer spring and Winchester Primers. They need to be 100% at full depth 100% of the time with Winchester primers.

2) Make the gun hit harder. The 14 pound PD hammer spring and PD firing pin would probably run 100%...

With primer seating like yours and much harder CCI primers, PD doesn't currently make a spring heavy enough to run my gun 100%. I had to install a 15.5ish lb EGD Xtreme Medium spring to light my "worst case scenario" ammo. This also brought my DA pull to 7.1 pounds. Hopefully when PD comes out with a 15.5 hammer spring it'll still hit hard without stacking as badly, and drop me back down around 6.5 pounds.

A Wolff 13 or 14 pound spring would definitely run your gun 100% with Winchesters that aren't buried at ful depth. 

I thought .004"-.010" below flush was deep, am I wrong on this? What kind of primer seating depth should I be looking for? I'm not sure how much more meticulous I can get with my loading. I've already given up the 650 in favor of a hand primer and a rock chucker. Surely there are guys out there with 12lb PD, EGD light, etc. hammer springs that don't approach loading for these guns like they are f class rifles. I do have a 13lb Wolff that I will try.

[emjei]

I had a Match today and tried the 13# Wolff......100% with CCI not meticulously done reloads

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[bulm540]

100% reliable with Winchester pistol primers with a 13 pound PD hammer spring ,  bolo and titan hammer. DA at 6.5 and SA At 2.5 pounds. Will try some S&B primers  next week. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2017 by bulm540

[B_RAD]

22 minutes ago, bulm540 said:

100% reliable with Winchester pistol primers with a 13 pound PD hammer spring ,  bolo and titan hammer. DA at 6.5 and SA At 2.5 pounds. Will try some S&B primers  next week. 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe ya already been said, I'm not going back and read all previous post, have you polished all the internals on you gun?  

 

I'm using a 12# PD and I'm under 5# DA. 

 

 

[johnbu]

Questions

 

Have you verified the FPB is not dragging or partially blocking the firing pin?

Have you polished the firing pin channel and FPB hole?

Have you noticed any hesitation of the slide going into full battery?

What lube are you using, what temperature?  (some lubes thicken and slow everything too much).

 

My opinion is that cci needs at least the 14pd hammer spring AND pd firing pin to be match reliable with really good reloads. (Yours sound good by the way).

A fresh gun may still have a few areas to polish. Don't dispare! Just DA dry fire the snot out of it [500 or more times) then inspect for any areas needing more shine.

Some guns / primers just need more whack force. I think PD is going to make a 15 or 15.5 spring for them.  even if you need it now, after use and more polishing you probably will be able to drop the spring rate.

I prefer to start the quest with good polishing, quality lube and at least the 14pd spring. Then run it, fine tune it and creep down the spring rate. It's less frustrating for me that way.

Edited January 9, 2017 by johnbu

[bulm540]

56 minutes ago, B_RAD said:

Maybe ya already been said, I'm not going back and read all previous post, have you polished all the internals on you gun?  

 

I'm using a 12# PD and I'm under 5# DA. 

 

 

yup, this is light enough for me. I have a 12# and had 1 light strike with winchester. 

[B_RAD]

7 minutes ago, bulm540 said:

yup, this is light enough for me. I have a 12# and had 1 light strike with winchester. 

I've had two light strikes with 12# and win primers in DA. 

 

100% using S&B.

 

I was asking  because you're trigger pull is over 1.5# more than mine with the same  parts. 

[taxil343]

5 hours ago, johnbu said:

Questions

 

Have you verified the FPB is not dragging or partially blocking the firing pin?

Have you polished the firing pin channel and FPB hole?

Have you noticed any hesitation of the slide going into full battery?

What lube are you using, what temperature?  (some lubes thicken and slow everything too much).

 

My opinion is that cci needs at least the 14pd hammer spring AND pd firing pin to be match reliable with really good reloads. (Yours sound good by the way).

A fresh gun may still have a few areas to polish. Don't dispare! Just DA dry fire the snot out of it [500 or more times) then inspect for any areas needing more shine.

Some guns / primers just need more whack force. I think PD is going to make a 15 or 15.5 spring for them.  even if you need it now, after use and more polishing you probably will be able to drop the spring rate.

I prefer to start the quest with good polishing, quality lube and at least the 14pd spring. Then run it, fine tune it and creep down the spring rate. It's less frustrating for me that way.

I have not pulled the fpb yet and I'm fairly certain this is the culprit. Will remove and try again today. Fp and fpb channels are mirror polished, worked quite a few hours here as I read many of your posts stating how important this is. Slide goes into battery perfectly. I am using original slide glide on trigger, slide and spring engagement areas and a liberal dose of a super thin synthetic everywhere as this is a brand new gun. I will try out the 13lb Wolff while I'm waiting on 13 and 14lb PD spring to arrive and hopefully that will get me on the right track.

[MemphisMechanic]

The 13 pound Wolff hits much harder than a 13 PD - it also adds .5 to 1.0 pounds to the trigger weight. Just do that and go shoot it, you won't really notice it when actually firing it.

I'd do that and leave the firing pin block (FPB) out for the first 500+ rounds. Get the gun completely reliable then put the block back in. That way if problems appear you know without question where your problem is.

With a questionable hammer spring, ammo, chamber depth, and firing pin block fit you simply have too many possible issues and wind up chasing yourself in circles.

[taxil343]

I will give it a go this afternoon with the 13lb Wolff and no fpb. Thanks guys

[johnbu]

It sounds like you are on the right track. Sadly, there are many small areas that  can pose problems and they can appear insignificant. Best advice is just a slow steady approach. Knock down every barrier as found and soon you will be enjoying a great gun.  don't be too bothered by initially needing a stronger hammer spring as the gun wears and loosens up it will need less spring. At least mine have. They were 7.5 / 3 for a long time then dropped below 6/2 while maintaining reliability.   As Memphis said, make it reliable, shoot the snot out of it and tweak it a bit on every cleaning.

[ryridesmotox]

Here is a snap of one of the many good revolver builders and how they want you to sear primers... These are federal match primers in the pic (as claimed by the post). So the need to be deep... And firm-ly seated. 

Lee Loadmaster will get it there.

You need to seat the primers like you are balls deep in Megan Fox and trying to load up that uterus to trap her. Deep son... DEEP

Edited January 9, 2017 by ryridesmotox

[B_RAD]

7 minutes ago, ryridesmotox said:

Here is a snap of one of the many good revolver builders and how they want you to sear primers... These are federal match primers in the pic (as claimed by the post). So the need to be deep... And firm-ly seated. 

Lee Loadmaster will get it there.

You need to seat the primers like you are balls deep in Megan Fox and trying to load up that uterus to trap her. Deep son... DEEP

Lmao!

 

deep son!

[bulm540]

17 hours ago, B_RAD said:

I've had two light strikes with 12# and win primers in DA. 

 

100% using S&B.

 

I was asking  because you're trigger pull is over 1.5# more than mine with the same  parts. 

probably need to repolish the inside of the plunger. Will try S&B s this weekend. I have a couple of thousand laying around.

[johnbu]

Plunger affects feel and force to move the trigger. No impact on strike force.

2 hours ago, bulm540 said:

probably need to repolish the inside of the plunger. Will try S&B s this weekend. I have a couple of thousand laying around.

 

[emjei]

Update ?

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[bulm540]

Havent had time to retest with S&Bs. Have feds on hand. 

[stickboy44]

I have been having some light strikes too. Everything in my S2 has been polished twice. It only happens on DA.

I have a Titan hammer, 1-piece sear (not extreme), bolo, extend firing pin block, PD: firing pin and spring, PD hammer springs from 12 to 15.5 lbs. 

I'm currently running the 14lb. hammer spring.

Things I have ruled out of being the problem: removed firing pin block, polished the crap out of everything, I do have a factory plunger spring in the gun, ammo is not a problem (I'm running winchester primers) and my OAL. is good (pass the plunk test)...