Tanfoglio Stock II light Strikes

[Tanfastic]

To check if the FBP is functioning here's what I did, not sure if there is a better way but I checked with Joe at PD and he said this was correct:

 

1) Cock the hammer back in single-action

2) Tie the hammer in this spot with something wrapped around the beaver tail and the hammer.  I used a velcro computer cable wrap, but anything that will wrap around and hold it in place will work (rubber band, tape, etc.)

3) Take a punch and push on the back of the firing pin, it should NOT push in with the hammer cocked

4) Slowly press the trigger with your other hand while continuing to tap against the firing pin to make sure it stays blocked

5) At the point where you can feel the hammer break the SA shot you should be able to push the firing pin in with the punch

 

If you can push the firing pin in with the hammer cocked and the trigger not being pressed, you do not have a functional firing pin block.  If you still can't push in the firing pin even after the trigger is pulled to the point the shot breaks, you have a dragging firing pin block which can cause light strikes. 

[Gviz]

19 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

To check if the FBP is functioning here's what I did, not sure if there is a better way but I checked with Joe at PD and he said this was correct:

 

1) Cock the hammer back in single-action

2) Tie the hammer in this spot with something wrapped around the beaver tail and the hammer.  I used a velcro computer cable wrap, but anything that will wrap around and hold it in place will work (rubber band, tape, etc.)

3) Take a punch and push on the back of the firing pin, it should NOT push in with the hammer cocked

4) Slowly press the trigger with your other hand while continuing to tap against the firing pin to make sure it stays blocked

5) At the point where you can feel the hammer break the SA shot you should be able to push the firing pin in with the punch

 

If you can push the firing pin in with the hammer cocked and the trigger not being pressed, you do not have a functional firing pin block.  If you still can't push in the firing pin even after the trigger is pulled to the point the shot breaks, you have a dragging firing pin block which can cause light strikes. 

thanks for the info i will check that when i get home. cheers!

[MemphisMechanic]

8 hours ago, Gviz said:

 

in my stock 2 i replaced the 2 pc sear and sear housing with an xtreme sear and xtreme sear housing along with a PD reduced spring. i kept the stock FPB and i went to the range and shot 200 rounds with no problem. should i be worried about anything? 

 

 

Not until you start considering a racier hammer. The repositioned hooks are the culprit, I believe.

[fellas]

10 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Not until you start considering a racier hammer. The repositioned hooks are the culprit, I believe.

 

 

so fitting a titan on a stock 2 is tricky ?

 

[MemphisMechanic]

1 minute ago, fellas said:

 

 

so fitting a titan on a stock 2 is tricky ?

 

 

Not at all: with a Bolo, Titan hammer, and extended firing pin block it's typically plug and play. Sometimes a bit of fitting on the block is required, but not usually.

 

Edited September 12, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[fellas]

It feels smoother than the Normal Hammer and EXtreme Delta Hammer?

[bulm540]

I need to re check mine tonight. I know when I manually push the firing block it does block it. Mine is definitely working. 

Edited September 12, 2017 by bulm540

[Gviz]

22 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

Not at all: with a Bolo, Titan hammer, and extended firing pin block it's typically plug and play. Sometimes a bit of fitting on the block is required, but not usually.

 

 

Hey MM, I have the ff on my stock 2:

xtreme FP

PD FP spring

xtreme sear

xtreme sear housing

PD sear spring

xtreme plunger

PD 15.5 hammer spring

 

i installed all these parts and polished them a bit. Luckily I did not need to fit any part and the pistol shoots fine and I can measure with a trigger gauge the improvements on what I'm doing. since I'm not knowledgeable with filing or how things should be working internally. If parts need fitting that would totally hinder me from putting it together since my knowledge of gunsmithing is minimal. So if I wanted to install a titan hammer,  BOLO, extended FPB and spring. What kind of fitting would take place? Do you have a link or a DIY video. Would very much appreciate all the help. Thanks in advance

 

im tuning my stock 2 for CCI small pistol primers 

 

( I know I have almost everything that is xtreme. because I was relying on old threads in tuning the platform. And then I started reading more recent trigger tunes that had patriot defense optimizing stuff. So I found out late that I did not need  all that xtreme parts and  I was better off with the standard parts for tinkering and polishing.) should've just asked to save some mula just didn't want to get search is your friend as an answer lol  

 

 

 

Edited September 13, 2017 by Gviz

[SoCalShooter69]

4 hours ago, Gviz said:

 

Hey MM, I have the ff on my stock 2:

xtreme FP

PD FP spring

xtreme sear

xtreme sear housing

PD sear spring

xtreme plunger

PD 15.5 hammer spring

 

i installed all these parts and polished them a bit. Luckily I did not need to fit any part and the pistol shoots fine and I can measure with a trigger gauge the improvements on what I'm doing. since I'm not knowledgeable with filing or how things should be working internally. If parts need fitting that would totally hinder me from putting it together since my knowledge of gunsmithing is minimal. So if I wanted to install a titan hammer,  BOLO, extended FPB and spring. What kind of fitting would take place? Do you have a link or a DIY video. Would very much appreciate all the help. Thanks in advance

 

im tuning my stock 2 for CCI small pistol primers 

 

( I know I have almost everything that is xtreme. because I was relying on old threads in tuning the platform. And then I started reading more recent trigger tunes that had patriot defense optimizing stuff. So I found out late that I did not need  all that xtreme parts and  I was better off with the standard parts for tinkering and polishing.) should've just asked to save some mula just didn't want to get search is your friend as an answer lol  

 

 

 

If you have a Gen 1 trigger bar, the titan and bolo will (99%) drop in, with your current set up. 

[MemphisMechanic]

The only things you didn't really need were the extreme firing pin and sear housing. But they certainly won't hurt anything.

 

Polish all of that up nicely and you probably won't have to do any fitting.

[Gviz]

11 hours ago, SoCalShooter69 said:

If you have a Gen 1 trigger bar, the titan and bolo will (99%) drop in, with your current set up. 

looks like ill be ordering a gen 1 trigger bar from PD. and still waiting for the PD FP and PD BOLO to be back in stock.

[Gviz]

On 9/13/2017 at 7:28 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

The only things you didn't really need were the extreme firing pin and sear housing. But they certainly won't hurt anything.

 

Polish all of that up nicely and you probably won't have to do any fitting.

I was trying to install the titan hammer along with a stock disconnector, safety won't engage on hammer down and fully cocked but safety enguages at half cock. The sear moves up only on half cock with titan hammer . Swapped it out with stock hammer and the sear dose not  move on all 3 positions and safety enguages with no problem. Went back to the titan hammer and same issues on half cock it engages the safety. Is this normal? I'm a little bit hesitant to file it down knowing that at half cock the safety frees up. Please help thanks in advance. 

Edited September 22, 2017 by Gviz

[MemphisMechanic]

 

You’ll need to do this until the safety/sear have just enough clearance. I recommend removing material from the underside of the sear leg - it’s far cheaper than a safety is.

 

You are not making the tip shorter! You’re shaving down the underside so that the sear can slide beneath it!

 

When mine was properly fit, nothing moved at all in single action or with the trigger fully down. On safe at half-cock, pressing the trigger resulted in hammer movment, but not enough to cock the gun or drop the hammer. It would simply rock a little bit. Functionally, the gun was fine and safe.

Edited September 22, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[johnbu]

+1 on what MemphisMechanic said.

 

You will wind up installing and removing the sear many times to get it "just right".  Embrace it!  Expect it!  and don't rush it.  The fitting is straight forward removing metal from UNDER the sear leg.  Look at it when it won't engage.  Mark the "wrong side" so you KNOW which to work  on  as it's easy to get confused when it's all apart. 

 

Or you can shave material off the "bump" on the safety until it engages.  That works too, but then you can't ever go back to the factory hammer. 

[Gviz]

11 hours ago, johnbu said:

+1 on what MemphisMechanic said.

 

You will wind up installing and removing the sear many times to get it "just right".  Embrace it!  Expect it!  and don't rush it.  The fitting is straight forward removing metal from UNDER the sear leg.  Look at it when it won't engage.  Mark the "wrong side" so you KNOW which to work  on  as it's easy to get confused when it's all apart. 

 

Or you can shave material off the "bump" on the safety until it engages.  That works too, but then you can't ever go back to the factory hammer. 

Wow hahaha you guys were right when you said this thing can't be rushed. I was marking what I was dremeling using a sharpie so I know that I'm grinding the correct area. Plus it lets me know that I'm taking out material evenly. I lost count after 10 passes and reassembling. Then on the last five attempts I just said to myself I'll be here for a bit longer. And when I test fitted the safety engaged!!! Uhhhlala! I'm done time to polish and clean! This forum is full of valuable info and all you contributors I thank you again! This is my first attempt in fitting anything on a gun that required taking off material! Yahoo I did something incredible for my limited knowledge of gunsmithing hahaha!

thanks again Memphis and johnbu 

 

i almost forgot to do the FPB test that tanfastic mentioned. I failed that and had to replace the stock FPB with the xtreme extended FPB. I got lucky with this part since I had purchased a bunch of xtreme parts thinking I needed to upgrade the internals that route. Hahaha wrong...

Edited September 23, 2017 by Gviz

[johnbu]

Great!  Glad it worked out for you.  Like nearly everything on these guns,  it's pretty easy ... the second or third time.    Hardest part is the start.

[Gviz]

Went to the range today still had some light strikes on DA from my reloads using CCI primers. Some went bang on the 2nd DA pull and had 2 that did not go bang on 3rd and 4th DA pull. 

 

Xtreme Titan hammer

xtreme sear

xtreme sear housing 

PD sear spring

PD 14# hammer spring

xtreme firing pin

PD FP spring

PD trigger spring 

xtreme plunger set

 

looking at the primer it didn't make a dent on it and some are not seated well so I can't fault the gun on those. But there were 2 rounds that had the primer set flush but was not able to ignite ( with multiple strikes) and the primers look hard as hell. Used the same loads on my CO pistol a sig xfive and it ate all the ammo I fed it. Going to do a tear down and some more polishing and going back to a 15.5# PD hammer spring. Hoping for 100% ignition on CCI small pistol primer. Any tips on what I should look into regarding my parts list and what am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2017 by Gviz

[SoCalShooter69]

13 hours ago, Gviz said:

Went to the range today still had some light strikes on DA from my reloads using CCI primers. Some went bang on the 2nd DA pull and had 2 that did not go bang on 3rd and 4th DA pull. 

 

Xtreme Titan hammer

xtreme sear

xtreme sear housing 

PD sear spring

PD 14# hammer spring

xtreme firing pin

PD FP spring

PD trigger spring 

xtreme plunger set

 

looking at the primer it didn't make a dent on it and some are not seated well so I can't fault the gun on those. But there were 2 rounds that had the primer set flush but was not able to ignite ( with multiple strikes) and the primers look hard as hell. Used the same loads on my CO pistol a sig xfive and it ate all the ammo I fed it. Going to do a tear down and some more polishing and going back to a 15.5# PD hammer spring. Hoping for 100% ignition on CCI small pistol primer. Any tips on what I should look into regarding my parts list and what am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance 

 

 

 

 

 

Put a bolo in it. Trim some material off the tip of the bolo and get your DA stroke DEEP. 

 

You should have not put all those extreme parts in it, but what's done is done. Also, you need to seat your primers deeper, but you did say that already... but if you want a quick fix, put a modified bolo in. I'm guessing you didn't put a bolo in because you were worried about light strikes, etc.?

[johnbu]

Your firing pin block may also be hampering motion of the firing pin.

Have you tested it? Look up memphismechanics post on it.

 

Have you plunk tested that the rounds are not too long?

[SoCalShooter69]

4 hours ago, johnbu said:

Your firing pin block may also be hampering motion of the firing pin.

Have you tested it? Look up memphismechanics post on it.

 

Have you plunk tested that the rounds are not too long?

 

Words of wisdom. 

[MemphisMechanic]

@Gviz - a flush primer is a high primer. Seat them all the way down in there - measure, and look for .003” below flush (or deeper depending on primer manufacturer.) Make sure all of your rounds pass the plunk test, and then take her back to the range before you start swapping parts and dremeling away.

 

If properly loaded ammo doesn’t fix things, look at the list from Johnbu and SoCal.

 

A striker fired SIG will eat anything and so will the other striker-fired guns. They have all that kinetic energy to rob from the reciprocating slide, cocking then driving the striker much harder. A Tanfogilo or CZ has only the energy expended by your finger cranking the hammer back in DA, which means once you start lightening the springs they truly need match-grade ammo.

 

Guys who came from striker Guns like myself have to learn how to load ammo with buried primers. We have no clue: “if it’s flush, it’s good!” always works with Glock and P320 and M&P.

 

Now that I’ve gone back to the striker guns it’s nice to just pound CCI-primed ammo out like a monkey on the 650 again, but I’m still grateful for the reloading lessons I learned while feeding my Stock III.

Edited September 25, 2017 by MemphisMechanic

[Gviz]

23 hours ago, johnbu said:

Your firing pin block may also be hampering motion of the firing pin.

Have you tested it? Look up memphismechanics post on it.

 

Have you plunk tested that the rounds are not too long?

i just checked,  my ammo passed the plunk test tapping and falls out no problem i can also spin the round while it is in the chamber.  now the firing pin. i remember reading MemphisMechanics post about polishing the firing pin and the hole. but, i dont remember reading about how to check the FP. pls add a link for this . thanks in advance.

 

Edited September 26, 2017 by Gviz

[Gviz]

1 hour ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@Gviz - a flush primer is a high primer. Seat them all the way down in there - measure, and look for .003” below flush (or deeper depending on primer manufacturer.) Make sure all of your rounds pass the plunk test, and then take her back to the range before you start swapping parts and dremeling away.

 

If properly loaded ammo doesn’t fix things, look at the list from Johnbu and SoCal.

 

A striker fired SIG will eat anything and so will the other striker-fired guns. They have all that kinetic energy to rob from the reciprocating slide, cocking then driving the striker much harder. A Tanfogilo or CZ has only the energy expended by your finger cranking the hammer back in DA, which means once you start lightening the springs they truly need match-grade ammo.

 

Guys who came from striker Guns like myself have to learn how to load ammo with buried primers. We have no clue: “if it’s flush, it’s good!” always works with Glock and P320 and M&P.

 

Now that I’ve gone back to the striker guns it’s nice to just pound CCI-primed ammo out like a monkey on the 650 again, but I’m still grateful for the reloading lessons I learned while feeding my Stock III.

 

its good to here that i have to stop tearing down and swapping parts. coz that is what i was doing for the past 3 weeks. i was just building a parts bin for the stock 2 in hoping to find the miraculous combination of parts that would work 100%.i'll check the ammo that i will be testing next time. i did the shimming of the 650XL with your method. i was seating the primers flush .000-,001 and now after the primer mod i'm getting  .003-.005 at the most. i will load 100 rounds to fined out if it is ammo that's giving me problems. thanks for the advice and info guys! i'll try to do things systematically now and stop jumping  into parts swapping and over polishing stuff.

Edited September 26, 2017 by Gviz

[Gviz]

On 9/24/2017 at 10:35 AM, SoCalShooter69 said:

 

Put a bolo in it. Trim some material off the tip of the bolo and get your DA stroke DEEP. 

 

You should have not put all those extreme parts in it, but what's done is done. Also, you need to seat your primers deeper, but you did say that already... but if you want a quick fix, put a modified bolo in. I'm guessing you didn't put a bolo in because you were worried about light strikes, etc.?

 

i was not ready for the BOLO coz of the light strikes i think i read somewhere in the forum to hold out on that part until i sort out the issues on tuning. also its always out of stock grrrr lol

[SoCalShooter69]

2 hours ago, Gviz said:

 

i was not ready for the BOLO coz of the light strikes i think i read somewhere in the forum to hold out on that part until i sort out the issues on tuning. also its always out of stock grrrr lol

 

Sorry, the hurricane shut down the shop for a good week and a half. It just so happened to coincide with our bolo run. 

 

That being said, there are mods you cam do to the bolo to get some monstrous throw in DA. But yes, it's good to sort your gat out.