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Factory ammo in 2011 guns


tannerlc

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My DVC Limited ran factory for about 100 rounds and then it wanted nothing to do with it. That was a fun match. I run 1.180 in it now and have no issues. I ran the Atlanta Arms Long for a bit, then got the long from my local ammo supplier. 

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Yeh the Atlanta Arms long loaded ammo is what i feel comfortable with but WWB what little i have shot of it runs fine. I gotta start reloading. there is a new ammo black dot  ammunition he runs east alabama gun club he is gonna load me some long ammo .180 and gonna give it a try its very reasonable priced i $249 per 1000rds ill pick some up on the 16th of oct. at there next uspsa match they have a FB page check them put 

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I have no problem with Federal .40  factory ammo from walmart .  (or WWB either for that matter).   I prefer Atlanta Arms -Long loads for major matches due to my perfectionist tendencies.  My handloads I load to the same length as the Atlanta Arms long loads.

Eric

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25 minutes ago, tannerlc said:

do you shoot competition with wbw?

If I don't have time or too lazy to load ammo, I do.  Not just win white box either, I've perfecta and remington.

Haven't shoot any uspsa match this year, just some 3gun and carbine matches that had pistol friendly stages. Able to pull off some long shots on those carbines matches, but I guess that's more of a testament to SVI's quality than the ammo itself.  Never had one malfunction yet.

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  • 2 years later...

Hello folks,

Brand new to the forum and have learned a lot already...

I figured I'd try and revive this thread instead of someone pointing me back to it as i'm looking to gleam a bit more info out of this very topic as I just picked up a Cheely Limited in 9mm 5" and would like to get up and running for now, although I'm sure reloading is somewhere in the not too distant future for me... Interested in competing, major and/or minor eventually as well.

 

Starting with that it will have an unworn 9lb Wolff recoil spring, what should I look for when purchasing factory ammo for this gun for the time being? I mention this as I figure it's at least one of the top factors in what it takes to overcome the peril of getting a squib stuck in the barrel trying to go too cheap (NO SQUIBS)! Are there other critical points that contribute to this topic as well other than what the round can knock over on the terminal end of things?

 

I've heard 147gr & 130PF will do well, but what about 124gr, 115gr even if the PF is around 130...? I have a lot of the latter that it looks like I'll need to off-load, which is fine, just trying to determine where to go from there, unless I can use it for shooting paper for practice.

 

I read on here someone even trying to contend with .40 performance using hotter P+ loads on steel, so that's exciting to think I have some upwards flexibility as well as the reduced recoil and increased round count of the 9mm. Is there some quick guidelines I need to follow as far as grain and power factor when browsing round? Brands that have proven consistent would also be helpful. If I can get leads on this info, ammoseek should be able to help with the rest unless there's hidden gems unknown to it...?

 

Thanks in advance and looking forward to some solid kit in this blaster!

b

image1.jpeg

Edited by carnageasada
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Most people (ME) buy The Cheapest ammo they can find - and there's a lot of cheap

9mm ammo around.   Most of the cheap stuff is 115 gr, but that's okay to start.

 

Many shooters find the heavier bullets a little better for them - like the 124's and 147's,

but they get more expensive - not as easy to find real buys there.

 

Buy  a few different brands and try them out - see what you and Your gun like.  If you

can't tell the difference, there is no difference - just enjoy the cost savings.

 

If you buy ammo with brass, non-stepped brass - save it if you can - you will

end up reloading, one day.    :)

 

Oh, BTW, Welcome aboard - hope you enjoy the sport as much as I have.

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so since I made this post a few years ago ive went through several different 2011s Factory ammo ran fine its just hot find some competition ammo though i Use  black dot ammo cheaper than most bulk and its a little lighter for competition 130pf are so in 9mm and 170 or so in my Akai custom. http://blackdotammunition-com.3dcartstores.com/

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@carnageasadai would expect any factory 9mm would make minor PF in USPSA.  Unless you're shooting at level 2 matches and higher, I doubt you need to worry about PF.  Suggest you just shoot that fine pistol you have, get some experience under your belt and then revisit ammo next season.

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yeh all factory 9mm will make PF but your putting yourself at a disadvantage by shooting it due to the high PF i know in .40 it was about 20pf + difference from factory over the black dot ammo competition ammo. the black dot is cheaper and more reliable and made for shooting competition. Atlanta Arms is good also but more expensive  

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All excellent advice, thanks! I completely get that the UMC 115gr I have is far and away on the poor end of the spectrum when it comes to competition and I'm certain I'll share @MikeyScuba's experience with dirtying 'er up a bit, but I'm even looking forward to maintaining such a fine example of craftsmanship! I'll head to ammoseek and see what Black Dot cost's is at, but for now as a couple have said, I just need to open the gun up, break it in, then see what 115gr ~130pf ammo shoots like and climb from there. Thanks again everyone!

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On 4/18/2019 at 5:02 PM, carnageasada said:

Hello folks,

Brand new to the forum and have learned a lot already...

I figured I'd try and revive this thread instead of someone pointing me back to it as i'm looking to gleam a bit more info out of this very topic as I just picked up a Cheely Limited in 9mm 5" and would like to get up and running for now, although I'm sure reloading is somewhere in the not too distant future for me... Interested in competing, major and/or minor eventually as well.

 

Starting with that it will have an unworn 9lb Wolff recoil spring, what should I look for when purchasing factory ammo for this gun for the time being? I mention this as I figure it's at least one of the top factors in what it takes to overcome the peril of getting a squib stuck in the barrel trying to go too cheap (NO SQUIBS)! Are there other critical points that contribute to this topic as well other than what the round can knock over on the terminal end of things?

 

I've heard 147gr & 130PF will do well, but what about 124gr, 115gr even if the PF is around 130...? I have a lot of the latter that it looks like I'll need to off-load, which is fine, just trying to determine where to go from there, unless I can use it for shooting paper for practice.

 

I read on here someone even trying to contend with .40 performance using hotter P+ loads on steel, so that's exciting to think I have some upwards flexibility as well as the reduced recoil and increased round count of the 9mm. Is there some quick guidelines I need to follow as far as grain and power factor when browsing round? Brands that have proven consistent would also be helpful. If I can get leads on this info, ammoseek should be able to help with the rest unless there's hidden gems unknown to it...?

 

Thanks in advance and looking forward to some solid kit in this blaster!

b

image1.jpeg

I made this chart a while ago. A lot of factory brands. Price may not be accurate, but everything else should still be accurate. 

2A761F59-23C7-4093-B27B-84DAC6FC5D7C.jpeg

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