EliteGuard

Hybrid follower. According to the website it is a 10 round tube, but the follower reduces it to 9. I have not modified it and not aware of it being modified. I will check if it is binding and if not I will call Tripp. https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Tripp-10mm-9-Round-Government-System-Corey-Magazine-wBasepad-P3335.aspx

I have a Sig Max in .40 that fails to lock open when using Tripp Corey Mags. It locks open when using Wilson Combat magazines. I compared the followers on the magazines and noticed the piece that engages the slide stop is a lot lower on the Tripp Research magazine when compared to the Wilson Combat. If I take the slide off, the Tripp Research barely moves the slide stop. Anybody know if it is possible to get the piece that engages to slide stop to sit higher? If not, maybe I can try the other Tripp Research follower to see if it sits higher.

Does your Sig Max in .40 allow an OAL of 1.18? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Thank you for the responses. Looks like I am stuck going with a Sig Max 1911, Sig Traditional Match Elite, STI Trojan, or Remington R1. I know STI discontinued the Trojan a while ago. Not sure I trust Remington yet. It also looks like Sig discontinued their 1911s in 40 S&W as Sig doesn't list any 1911 in 40 S&W. Will have to buy one off of gun broker or look for stores that have them still, which looks like there are a couple. I can see why I am mostly seeing 9mm 1911s with the occasional 45 ACP 1911 at the local matches.

I am looking for a 1911 in 40 S&W to use in USPSA. I already shoot limited in 40 S&W, but I am having a hard time finding a 1911 in 40 S&W. Would be nice to reload only one caliber for competiton. I do have the stuff to reload 9 and 45 if need be. No interest in IDPA. Anybody know of a 1911 in 40 S&W under $1500. I can go a bit over. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

The action type determines the division (equipment rules) you will shoot. SAO is limited (race guns without comps and red dots), single stack (1911s), and open (race guns with comps and red dots). DAO and DA/SA can be used in any division. The only division I can think of where everybody uses DAO is revolver. In production where you see all the DA/SA guns they start in DA. If all you have is a DAO gun then come out and try the sport. You only need a belt, a holster, and a couple of mags. I have seen beginners start by storing mags in their pockets, which there is a rule about mags in front of your hip bone in certain divisions, but don't worry about that for now.

Vortex Razor HD 1-6x24. I have seen the recently discontinued model for $800 to $900. If you can't find that probably the Vortex Viper PST gen II 1-6x24.

I average the first 3 then check 1 at the end, but I checked the 3 on the next reloading session later that day and it was higher. Reloading sessions was 300 rounds. I'll try that. I am guessing this will help with the powder settling the later post are talking about. I have been loading 9mm and .40 using N320 and have never experienced the powder charge walking up unless it was so small that I didn't notice, which is possible. Any recommendations on how to compensate then? I thought the adjustment screw was changing, which doesn't appear to be the case as I tried the marker recommendation earlier.

I am wondering whether I am doing something wrong before I put loctite on the adjustment screw. I am reloading .223 using H335. When I start reloading, I throw 4 powder charges. I throw out the first powder charge then average the next 3. When I start reloading, have 24.5 gr, but last couple of times when I ended I was at 24.8 gr. Last time this happened, I adjusted it back to 24.5 gr and it eventually walked back up. Any ideas?

It seems like every match has somebody forgot a target. I know I have skipped a port with 3 targets. Last match I was at, I had a target I knew exactly where it was and shot at it...I didn't realize that the target had hardcover over everything, but the head...I walked by the target I don't know how many times and didn't realize it until they scored it. It happens.

I have the same problem. I shoot with both eyes open, but as I draw my gun I hold it in front of my left eye, which people not knowing I was cross eye dominant have told me was a waste of time. I use to shoot with my head turned, but I have managed to train myself out of it. This is shooting with iron sights. I have yet to shoot a pistol with optics.

Thank you. I will look at the grip safety. I was thinking it was the thumb safety due to when holding the gun, I see the marks on my thumb lining up with it. I see two people in this thread that switched to Ed Brown Grip Safeties. Did you guys have to file the frame any? I would prefer to file the part instead of the frame if possible.

The JP 2 port compensator works great. No gas in my face and sights barely move. I haven't tried the 3 port compensator.

What is your opinion on dry firing with the hammer cocked vs just pulling the trigger. I find that when I dry fire, the front sight stays steady if I pull the trigger with the hammer cocked, but If I try with the hammer down then the front sight moves. The gun is an STI Edge. What does everybody else do?

My .40 S&W STI Edge chews up the area between the two joints in my thumb when practicing for anything involving more than 200 rounds. My pistol is chromed so I am not sure how easy it would be to round any corners. I think it is the thumb safety that is causing the damage. Can I round the edges on a part that is chromed or anybody that can recommend a replacement part? Thumb safety is the factory one.

CR Speed Versa Mag Pouch, Ghost 360 Mag Pouch, Double Alpha Race Master Mag Pouch, or Double Alpha Racer Mag Pouch

Yes, 300 yards. At 30 yards I hope you have no problem hitting the target with a rifle. Can always pull out your pistol at 30 yards.

I have a 18" JP 1/8 twist medium contour barrel with a matching bolt that I have no problem hitting targets with at 300 yards. I switch to a 69 grain past that. I also have a 20" Krieger 7.7 twist with a matching bolt that doesn't do as good of a job with 55 grain as the JP, but it easily wins when using 69 grain. You could also try different 55 grain ammo or a heavier bullet. The JP barrel I have produces smaller groups with Wolf Gold than PMC for example. I have only experiment with different bullet weights on the Krieger. Edit: Fixed 300 yards being 30 yards.

Steel shoots. I am talking about shooting matches that are setup like USPSA stages, but all steel. They have helped me so much with shot calling, my transitions, and moving into positions.

I considered the CZ and Tanfoglio, but ending up with a 2011. It seems like everybody eventually ends up with a 2011 even if they started with the CZ or Tanfoglio. One downside I can think of with the 2011 is that they like loaded long .40 and not factory .40. I have seen some 2011s run just fine with factory .40 and others not able to get through one magazine. If you spend enough time looking you should be able to get a good deal for a used 2011 in the classifieds. You should consider sticking with your 34 or getting a 35 with magazine extensions. That will last you for a long time. Your gun won't be the thing holding you back. One of the top limited guys shoots a 35. I have seen plenty of people, myself included, with expensive 2011s get beat by people shooting an M&P or a Glock.

Is there a trick to depriming primers and brass with offset flash holes? Yesterday, while reloading .223 for the first time, I bent the decapping pin and the decapping assembly on my Redding die. I noticed that a lot of brass with GFL (Fiocchi?) markings had an offset flash hole. Some Wolf Gold brass had the primer coming out 3/4 of the way. The Wolf Gold that was deprimed, had a distinct popping sound when the primer came out. The Wolf Gold is crimped and has red sealant on the primer. I am guessing I should throw out the brass with GFL to avoid the offset primer pocket. Not sure what to do with the Wolf Gold as most of my bass is Wolf Gold. I had some PMC brass and I didn't notice the popping sound when it was deprimed. If it makes any difference, I tried adjusting the decapping assembly down to try to remove the primers that wouldn't come out fully and that is when I broke it. Luckly, Redding is sending me a new one for free.

I haven't tried multiple brands for 9mm, but I did for .40. All of them had to be seated differently to reach the same OAL despite all being flat point and the same weight. The accuracy differed on all of them despite having the same lot of powder behind them and the same charge.

I have heard people say you should enter a shooting position and shoot the hard target first, but I have also heard people say you should exit on the hard target last. Hard target could be a paper target with hard cover or no shoots, small steel plate, or something far out. Which is faster? Stage where I heard the disagreement was a shooting position with a large steel plate and a small steel plate at the same distance. I have also heard it on a stage with a target requiring you to learn around a wall and the other targets didn't.

I have a rifle with a Geissele S3G and another with a Geissele SSA-E. I love the S3G when shooting inside 200 yards, but I prefer the SSA-E for anything beyond that.

Dawson Precision sells them with free shipping, but they only sell red and green. I use red, but ideally you should try multiple colors.