stiles Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Good catch on the 5/64". I just gauged mine with the back side of a 5/64" drill and it looks like it will go. It would totally suck if it was a friction fit though! Got stuff stuck on both sides that you want out!. I used a machinist bench block, the fist time was on my wooden bench, the second was on the foundation (with the same bench block), same result. I have some rubber soft jaws but I'm not sure if that would be enough to secure the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiles Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 SK makes a 5/64" roll pin punch that could be cut down and ground flat. Hmmmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiles Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I found a local to me 5/64" roll pin punch that may work. I may have to try it tomorrow! Kroil until then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) UPDATE: 20 rounds of 147gr Precision deltas @ 3.4gr titegroup (1.115" OAL) 100 rounds of 147gr Precision deltas @3.1gr titegroup (1.115" OAL) 250 rounds of Ultramax 125gr LRN reloads in a Steel Challenge match. This thread was started because I had *nine* double-feeds in a six-stage match last month. This time... the gun could not have run more perfectly. And it already had about 500 rounds through it without a cleaning before I arrived at the range today. I'm finally pretty confident that when I pick up my M&P, it will run just as well as my Glock did. I shot the Glock in two local IDPA matches while the M&P was choking. I'm glad to have the M&P back. Edited January 16, 2010 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 Awesome to see you as a convert. I really do wonder about all these extraction issues, though. I had thousands of rounds through my M&P in the first few months I owned it, and I got it before hardly anyone on these forums had one, and I've had no real issues of any kind that I can remember. Should I expect issues, or is mine going to be GTG? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 Considering that my 9L didn't even make it to 1K rounds? I think you'll be fine. Knowing what I know now, I would probably have shaved the pad on the factory extractor down and accomplished the same thing. Whatever. The gun runs damn perfect, and I ain't fiddling with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 That's good. I think I did have one FTE this summer, IIRC. That's the only time I can remember it ever malfunctioning, except for the one time i pulled the trigger and got no click or anything, which has not repeated itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-ManBart Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 <!--quoteo(post=1125262:date=Jan 2 2010, 09:53 AM:name=cyclone336)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cyclone336 @ Jan 2 2010, 09:53 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=1125262"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Does replacing the factory solid extractor pin with a roll pin move the gun out of USPSA Production because it is an externally visible modification?<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd--> No, the extractor is visible also and it's Production legal. John got back to me on using a roll pin/split pin....I think his reply is interesting. He said "I am at the Shot Show in Las Vegas and met with S&W, there is no issue with replacing the extractor, and what ever pin comes with the kit, is useable." The problem with that is that there isn't a "kit"...maybe you could add a properly sized roll pin to the extractor and make it a "kit"??? Again, I don't see anybody ever questioning it, but it might be nice, if only from a convenience standpoint....the right pin with the extractor would be handy. R, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyclone336 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 John got back to me on using a roll pin/split pin....I think his reply is interesting. He said "I am at the Shot Show in Las Vegas and met with S&W, there is no issue with replacing the extractor, and what ever pin comes with the kit, is useable." The problem with that is that there isn't a "kit"...maybe you could add a properly sized roll pin to the extractor and make it a "kit"??? Again, I don't see anybody ever questioning it, but it might be nice, if only from a convenience standpoint....the right pin with the extractor would be handy. R, Thank you for following up on my severely anal reading of the rules. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 I would be amazed, personally, if anyone actually noticed the swapped-out pin at a match. I understand that it never hurts to be careful, but I often see people worrying about things (not cheating - things like this that aren't an advantage) no one is ever going to "catch". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kend Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 <!--quoteo(post=1125262:date=Jan 2 2010, 09:53 AM:name=cyclone336)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (cyclone336 @ Jan 2 2010, 09:53 AM) <a href="index.php?act=findpost&pid=1125262"><{POST_SNAPBACK}></a></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Does replacing the factory solid extractor pin with a roll pin move the gun out of USPSA Production because it is an externally visible modification?<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd--> No, the extractor is visible also and it's Production legal. John got back to me on using a roll pin/split pin....I think his reply is interesting. He said "I am at the Shot Show in Las Vegas and met with S&W, there is no issue with replacing the extractor, and what ever pin comes with the kit, is useable." The problem with that is that there isn't a "kit"...maybe you could add a properly sized roll pin to the extractor and make it a "kit"??? Again, I don't see anybody ever questioning it, but it might be nice, if only from a convenience standpoint....the right pin with the extractor would be handy. R, Well, looks like we'll start including a roll pin with the extractors so we'll have the "proper" kit, amazing what lengths you have to go to for some of this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strick Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Glad to hear you got the problems fixed. I am now having the same issues. I bought the gun used and have been using it since last June or so but now I seem to get 1or 2 rounds per match (about 80 or so rounds) that don't want to extract. I put a new factory extractor and spring in with no change, a SSS extractor in with no change. I am pulling hat is left of my hair out over here. I think I may be on to something now though. With the SSS extractor there was no tension on the case, with the new stock one there is. I am thinking part of my problem was mag springs being worn out so I just replaced them. I think with worn out mag springs the next round doesn't sit high enough and when th spent round comes back it is falling down off the extractor before it hits the ejector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 (edited) replacing extractors doesnt help too much. I just got qn exciting new jam even more frequently that way. Shaving the 'pad' down was an instant change in feel when feeding rounds under the claw by hand, and the gun freaking CHUNKS brass 5 yards straight sideways, whereas before it was limply lobbed out at a 45 degree angle, or even closer to vertical. Shaving down the pad lets the claw swing further in toward the center of the breechface before that pad bottoms out at the front of the extractor cutout. I think this helps more than increasing spring pressures without giving it more travel. I still have the factory extractor spring, BTW. Oh, and I did clamp the slide firmly in a vise to drive the extractor pin out. I simply clamped it in a pair of 1x2s with a groove cut into one so it wouldnt squeeze down on the extractor I was trying to get the pin out of. Edited February 4, 2010 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) Pretty sure a cut-down 3/32 roll pin is what I used. Once you have the factory pin out to compare, it's obvious. Drill bit should work, just make sure you wear eye protection. They're brittle, and are more likely to crack or shatter than bend. Is the roll pin 3/32 or 5/64? I bought a bag of 3/32 roll pins from McMaster Carr and they look way too big. I measure the roll pin at about 0.998" The hole in the bottom of the slide is 0.083" and the top of the slide is 0.075". The hole in the extractor is only 0.079". Either the MMC pins aren't sized right or I need a 5/64. FWIW, I tried unsucsesfully to remove the pin with a drill bit. I ordered the punch, put a little penetrating oil on the pin, and stuck it in the freezer. 2 days later the punch arrived, and the pin came out with surprisingly little effort. Edited February 6, 2010 by sperman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 (edited) Dammit... Sorry. Looks like I had the wrong size. Editing the post now. Sorry. [EDIT - The forum software won't let me edit that post. Doh!] Edited February 6, 2010 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sperman Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I've ordered 5/64 and 2mm. I"ll let you know which fits best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strick Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I went out and ran the M&P after putting new springs in the magazines, 140 rounds and not a problem. I think that the springs in there might have been 10 round springs. After looking how the whole gun works, for hours, I think that might have fixed my issue of the case falling off the extractor. Well the mag springs and the new extractor and extractor spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMSI Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Thanks. Just finished shooting a video. Total teardown and reassembly of the M&P. Since I had to figure it out on my own, with only the Burwell trigger job-how-to as a guide. And it skipped some steps. I'll have it on YouTube in a day or two. Is this video up yet? Or is there one somewhere that shows extractor and spring replacement? I just got an extractor and spring from SSS but realize I need to be a gunsmith to replace it. Which I am not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fayetteflash Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Yeah. I'd love to see that video. I tried to get my extractor out for a couple of days and a couple of punches. Tod Litt had to help with it and he said it "came right out". My punches were definitely too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davepick Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 replacing extractors doesnt help too much. I just got qn exciting new jam even more frequently that way. Shaving the 'pad' down was an instant change in feel when feeding rounds under the claw by hand, and the gun freaking CHUNKS brass 5 yards straight sideways, whereas before it was limply lobbed out at a 45 degree angle, or even closer to vertical. Just been reading through this thread as I have started having extraction problems with my Pro – great info so far but could you help me understand which part of the extractor is the “pad” so I can shave it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) The claw of the extractor (the hook that actually engages the case and pulls it from the chamber) is obvious, at the right end of this photo. What I referred to as "the pad" is the bright silver rectangular block to its immediate left. You'll see when playing with it, that this is what rests against the slide, and controls how far inward the claw is allowed to rotate. If you've never taken it out and cleaned it, doing that alone may fix your issue if the cutout in the slide is heavily soiled. Edited October 2, 2010 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnN Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Maybe my reading comprehension is off but did we decide that 5/64"x1/2" is the correct roll pin for the extractor? I found though that once the factory pin was removed from the slide that it was fairly easy to remove succeeding times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jun_1911 Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 replacing extractors doesnt help too much. I just got qn exciting new jam even more frequently that way. Shaving the 'pad' down was an instant change in feel when feeding rounds under the claw by hand, and the gun freaking CHUNKS brass 5 yards straight sideways, whereas before it was limply lobbed out at a 45 degree angle, or even closer to vertical. Shaving down the pad lets the claw swing further in toward the center of the breechface before that pad bottoms out at the front of the extractor cutout. I think this helps more than increasing spring pressures without giving it more travel. I still have the factory extractor spring, BTW. I would like to say that I followed this advise using the stock extractor and extractor spring. It resolved the extraction problem in my m&p9. Whereas before, I used to have an average of 2 failure to extract per match. I recommend this procedure. MemphisMechanic, and those who shared in providing this solution, thank you very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9X23Guy Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 (edited) I have a Pro with 7500 rounds through it. I had my first two failures to extract in a match last weekend. I have never cleaned under the extractor. I took it out by lying it flat on a bench and knocking it out with a tapered punch to start it and a proper size to finish no problems. It was filthy but do you think I need to replace to extractor spring too. Im going to call S&W on Monday to see what they think. Edited July 28, 2012 by 9X23Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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