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stiles

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  1. Process of elimination. It's that simple. But I have been looking at the KMR and couldn't really find out how much the barrel nut and hand guard stands off from the upper is with the exception of BMC's instructions which states no less than .005" and no more than .040". Also the locating tab looks to only locate the rotational axis and be appears relieved on the length so not to push between the upper and the hand guard. The tab doesn't give me warm and fuzzy feelings but it doesn't jump out and scream either. So I guess I'll ask you the obvious questions. Have you tested the KMR hand guard and if so did you see any thermal stringing? If the answer is yes do you have any opinion as what feature caused it? Thanks.
  2. That's a poor attempt at a Marvel disconnector cut. The slot looks too wide to me and it's tapering on the left side. It is not to increase slide velocity when firing cause the disconnector is down until the trigger resets. But it attempts to make loading the first round at a more consistent slide velocity so that first round POI doesn't vary. It's a bullseye thing for the most part. It's very common in bullseye to use a long disconnector to keep the disconnector window from dragging on the sear pin, this also means the disconnector sticks up higher than originally intended. On a side note you can't have a bevel on the slide and do this mod. The two side tabs become a 2 point push feed surface and they need to be square. Bob Marvel, Joe Chambers, and Jerry Keefer are the people to ask about this mod if you want more information. I believe Bob has been doing this since the early 90's. Marvel d
  3. Lead is the diameter after the end of the chamber/neck. The throat is the taper from the lead/freebore to the rifling. That's how all the chamber prints are labeled that I've seen. I've never seen a lead reamer but plenty of throating reamers. The feed ramp portion of the barrel is not called the throat but throating is a modification of said feature. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  4. That tool works great, it has a boss that supports the upper from the inside. No problem installing barrels at all. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  5. I don't see the point of the u-die in 9 mm. It's a tapered case and the carbide sizing dies are just sizing rings which means your already sizing the base a ton. Even with the larger radius of the dillion I have never had an issue in 9mm. The dillion die with the belling/expander stills provides .002" neck tension for the depth of the expander and something like .0035" deeper, depending on the brass. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  6. I don't think so, I'm pretty sure it got into the military's system with the xm177 which had an 11.5" barrel. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  7. I don't even know where to start. I would strongly advise against setting up your own email server on a dynamic IP (I've never dealt with dynamic dns on an email server but it will only complicate things), or even a static IP, for other peoples emails. Well I guess it would be OK if you're looking for a non paying part time job. The link about setting up the MTA, MDA, etc... is only part of the equation that you will be dealing with. You also have to get your CNAME and MX records right (DNS, and DNS email record), and I do mean right, not just working, other wise you'll be black listed. Your MTA can't be an open relay, or you will be black listed, so learn smtp-auth (preferred and even better with TLS encryption), or pop-before-smtp (it's a hack but it will work). There are two other add ons to tie down your domain, one is a DNS encryption, the other is a domain tie down of some sort, it's been a long time since I've done this stuff so I don't remember off the cuff, but depending on the black list, not getting these done right will get you black listed. So the question arises what does it mean to be black listed in this context. Well various blacklist such as spamhaus crawl the various records of email domains and any malformed or missing records get that domain blacklisted, and any other domain that subscribes to said blacklist will not receive email from your domain. Here is the nasty part of this fact, you may not even know about this till someone says, why can I email so and so but not somebody else, I sent them both an email but only received my email. Now it's all on you, you have to figure out what is wrong, fix it, figured out which black list(s) your on and then contact the black list(s) and get them to review your domain and then your golden. Well maybe. You may have to persist, call, even hint your a he-man three gun shooter with an itchy trigger finger! It just depends on how responsive the admin(s) are on said black list. Most are responsive but things do fall through the cracks, they deal with a lot of traffic of this nature. Here is the bottom line, when you are running a live MTA on the internet you are joining a community of people who administrate email servers and you have to play by their rules or you get black listed (thanks spammers! it wasn't all ways like this). Dealing with Yahoo email is a cake walk compared to what road you are looking to embark on. Sorry for the negativity of this post, but I wanted to give you a honest view of what you will face. I've turned down piece meal work for email cause it becomes an on going commitment and it is not a set it up and forget about it type of a thing. Now to your questions: 1: Yes you will need to register a domain such as whatever.(com)(net)(org)(etc...), after you set up everything you can add as many users as you want so they have an email address such as user1@whatever.com 2: Run away! it's a massive pain in the ass unless your getting paid to administrate email.
  8. This is pretty much how I do it. All you are doing is putting a radius at the entry of the primer pocket so a new primer will feed in smoothly. You should not be opening up the diameter of the pocket. Using some layout fluid or a magic marker will make it obvious how much of a radius your swaging when setting up your tool. Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
  9. This just isn't true. Varmint Al did some FEA showing the difference of a polished chamber and a sand paper rough chamber is only 700 lbs of bolt force but the rough chamber had increased case stretch in the area where case head separation typically occurs. Worse yet a rough finished chamber decreases extraction reliability. I'll take the extra 700 lbs of bolt thrust any day for the increase in reliability and brass longevity. Have you actually removed a few thousands with an appropriate polishing compound? How long did it take you? I usually use an aluminum oxide in grease compound (555) on a mounted hard felt bob. Aluminum oxide reduces pretty fast, becoming a finer mesh giving less cut, not that 555 has an appreciable amount of cut to begin with. Overheating is a bigger concern than removing too much material in my experience. I don't like red rouge, it's an iron oxide based polish used mostly for jewelery. I get white 555 compound from Jantz knife making supply house. I'm pretty sure Brownells has it too. If the chamber is really rough you may have to use a more aggressive compound or something like a rubberized abrasive mounted point to remove the tooling marks. Rubberized abrasives are also good at slightly breaking the transitions from the feed ramp into the chamber. The most aggressive I'd use is medium and then move to the fine then to the 555 compound of a hard felt bob. For a rifle that is on the action I'd do something like Toolguy suggested. BTW do be careful getting into the throat area. Abrasive compounds don't cut flat surfaces fast at all but they do roll over sharp edges much quicker so stay just back of the headspace plane of a straight wall chamber and you'll be good to go. If at all possible turn the barrel and counter rotate the polishing tool, or use a stationary polishing tool while turning the barrel. I know it's not the practical unless you have a lathe but it's the best way to do it.
  10. It's more of the plasma eroding the high spots of the throats tooling marks. When the throats tooling marks are impacted with a carbon ring the process of smoothing out the throat takes far longer. Pretty much the term barrel break in is a misnomer. It should be called throat conditioning IMO. It's an advantage in short range benchrest cause you will not develop a carbon ring as fast so you don't have to clean the barrel as often to stay competitive.
  11. Yes PF will be VERY dependent on the total obturation of the barrel's rifling. But if you get them close enough it isn't unreasonable to run the same load with a bit of padding, just not as easy as running a load per gun. This may be a good judge of how good your barrel maker is if given this task, oohhhh!
  12. Have you priced 180gn SWCs in 45? I'm just pointing out that the 45 is a more flexible major cartridge with heavier bullets, 180-230+gn is no problem at major with the 45, in 40 S&W most ppl stop at 180gn and it's at a much higher pressure. Power factor is still a momentum based formula, not energy That being said if you just want to load one major cartridge between your limited gun and a SS I'd build up a single stack on a Caspian frame and a STI slide with a short chambered barrel and have it chambered like my limited gun. Even better yet have both guns fitted with the same make barrel short chambered and head spaced via the same reamer and same smith.
  13. 1.260" is usually too long for a H&G 68 copy, in my guns I usualy run 1.245" OAL with that mold. Here is how I go about figuring out what bullet works with what gun, your millage may vary: Pull your barrel(s) and place it on your loading bench, a case gauge won't work for this. For 45 ACP your crimp to dimension should be .469-.471" at the mouth of the case as measured by the blade part of your calipers. Seat a dummy to a long OAL (something like 1.270" is fine here) and then crank down your crimp to the above range of .469-.471". When you get your crimp right start gauging the dummy in your barrel(s) and see if the case protrudes above the hood of the barrel (it probably will at that OAL). Your trying to see if the cartridge is headspacing off the bullet and if the headspacing is too long at that OAL. Keep bumping back the OAL a bit at the time till the case head is just below the hood of the barrel and record that bullet to that barrel as your MAX OAL for that combination. Hope that makes some sense.
  14. If this means you have .064-.070" of clearance from the breach face to the extractor hook then that's ideal. IMO you need around .014" clearance to allow the case to cam up into the extractor when the mag lets go of the cartridge. I got this from Bob Londrigan article "Get Your Extractor Right the First Time", he also suggest using a 1/16" drill as a go gauge for extractor to breach face clearance, but I typically grab a #52 drill cause I can use a #51 and #50 to see how far on the plus side I am without having to grab another box of drills. The 9mm case has a call out of .050" rim thickness + .014" puts you at .064" breach face to hook. Now the flat of the cases' extractor grove (rim to beginning of the chamfer) is only .035" so with this .014" clearance you only have .021" of hook thickness to play with and that's with a zero tolerance fit. With a more reasonable .005" of clearance here your hook to extractor tip thickness is down to .016". So as you increase the breach face to extractor hook dimension you decrease extractor hook to tip thickness in proportion. Another way to put it is the more breach face to extractor hook clearance you have the less extractor hook strength you have. These numbers are not hard, but I treated them as such to illustrate the issues at hand. Now if you take a piece of brass put it under the extractor and press it fully against the breach face and the tip of the extractor starts to ride up the chamfer that connects the extractor grove to the base diameter then you have a problem. I gauged my Pro and the #52 drill (.0635") went in with the slightest bit of friction at the top of the extractor, the #51 (.0670") was a no-go. So that's .064" on the nose with the stock extractor. If you have some number drills I'd like to know how both your stock and the SSS extractors gauge.
  15. I found a local to me 5/64" roll pin punch that may work. I may have to try it tomorrow! Kroil until then!
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