Loading precision .223 on a 550b

[Z32MadMan]

I'm looking to start reloading for a .223 bolt. I have a 550b set up for 9mm right now and I'm wondering what I'm going to need. I'm considering buying fully processed and primed .223 brass from scharch.com. That way I don't have to worry about all of the case prep.

So if I use this brass, all I will need is to dump a powder charge and seat, correct? Will I just need a powder and seating die with a caliber conversion kit?

Any tips for making accurate .223 ammo on a progressive?

Thanks!

[barney88pdc]

http://lcsahighpower.com/2008/04/22/reloading-match-ammo/

[AlamoShooter]

Barney has a good link

You will not get the best accuracy out of the load until the brass has formed to your gun.

you will want to get a "neck size " die for the second load .

What size target do you want to hit? what range? What Bullet do want to use?

If you did not spend twice the cost of the gun on the Optic thin the load may not matter that much on your shooting.

Even with an AR I don't want my match loads to be virgin brass to my gun . = I want the brass to be shot at least once in my gun.

Call it Voodoo if you like.

You can find plenty of info by searching Precision loading

[David Sinko]

Case preparation is so aggravating and time consuming that I now find myself digging Boxer primed Wolf steel cases out of the trash at my range. The steel does not stretch like the brass does and the primer pockets don't need to be reamed. I use normal loading procedures and haven't had any problems. Yet.

Dave Sinko

[laportecharlie]

I have done exactly what you are considering. My PD hunting partners and I bought several thousand rounds of Scharch preped brass. It is really good stuff. You can even get it primed. I loaded it all on my 550 using TAC powder and various 55gr bullets to include 55 gr V-Max. Works just fine on Prairie Dogs out to 300 yards or so. About 99% of the brass we got was LC headstamp

[shooter545]

I have been reloading .223 on a 550B for years and as I got better at it produced some pretty good stuff. A couple of years ago I was shooting the Superstition 3 gun im Mesa, AZ, I saw some guys and some kit on a table from UniqueTek.

http://www.uniquetek.com/

They have a kit that allows you screw down the tool head to better control overall length and a retro fit micrometer for the powder adjustments on the 550B. Since I started using these on both .223 and the 6.8 SPC I have been able to get loads with a SD of 8.32 fps and 9.48 fps. The guys that I know at the AMU Reloading room at Ft Benning told me that they consider anything with a SD of 21 fps or less to be match quality. I'm pretty happy with it so far.

I would also agree with the comment on fireforming the brass. I can't say for absolute certain that it improves the groups/accuracy but it seems to help a bit in my ARs.

[RufDog]

Case preparation is so aggravating and time consuming that I now find myself digging Boxer primed Wolf steel cases out of the trash at my range. The steel does not stretch like the brass does and the primer pockets don't need to be reamed. I use normal loading procedures and haven't had any problems. Yet.

Dave Sinko

Are you serious? How do you go about it? Any special considerations? I always heard that it couldnt be done.

[Nick Weidhaas]

I use the scharch brass, H335, 55gr. NBT, CCI primers, and a 550b. The scharch brass has been very good w/ no prep needed. I seat the primer, drop the powder (Dillon), seat the bullet (Redding Competition Seating Die) and I'm done. Shoots as good as factory match ammo in my CTR-02.

[outerlimits]

+10 for scharch brass-not expensive and all prep work eliminated. Just add primer. Powder & pills!

[Graham Smith]

I'm considering buying fully processed and primed .223 brass from scharch.com.

Check the vendor tents here for Freedom Gunworks. They have primed Lake City brass for sale.

The one negative I have seen for reloading on a progressive is that what happens on one station can affect others.

Edited April 6, 2010 by Graham Smith

[Dog Doc]

I have just recieved some of the scharch brass that is already primed, as I thought this would be the easiest way to start loading .223. I am getting ready to work some loads up, but I was wondering what you guys do when using a dillon 550b.

Do you just eliminate the size/deprime die completely? I have seen some mention of running the die very high to just have the expander ball run through the neck. I am gonna single stage my initial loads during the work up but just wonding how to run the 550b in full production mode after I find a load

Thanks in advance!

[Smithars]

On the head I use for loading I have a neck sizing die in the first position. When I loaded the scharch already primed stuff I just removed the stem with the depriming pin and ran it that way.

[Xfactor]

The one negative I have seen for reloading on a progressive is that what happens on one station can affect others.

I've read that the Tubb method of skipping a station helps with this... that is, when seating a bullet, skip the sizing station (and vice versa - insert a new case in the sizing station only when the seating station is empty).

[PHolsted]

I just started trying to load some 223 on my 550 and the biggest problem I seem to be having is getting the cases lined up to go into the dies on the up stroke. Any tips on keeping the cases lined up?

[Smithars]

I just started trying to load some 223 on my 550 and the biggest problem I seem to be having is getting the cases lined up to go into the dies on the up stroke. Any tips on keeping the cases lined up?

When you're saying that they aren't lined up is it that the entire shell plate is out of alignment, all 4 cases, or just one wobbles out? If it's all 4 you might try loosening the bolt that tightens down the shell plate so you can feel it click into place a little better. Too tight and you don't get that distinct click. If it's just one then it could be the opposite and the plate is too loose and the case can wobble out in a single station.

[PHolsted]

It seems like excesive case wobble so when on the up stroke the cases do not always line up to go into the dies. I have shell plate a tight as possible but it still is a pain in the but.

[Graham Smith]

It seems like excesive case wobble so when on the up stroke the cases do not always line up to go into the dies. I have shell plate a tight as possible but it still is a pain in the but.

Have you checked your primer seating depth? If the primers are a bit high, the base will not be flat and will wobble.

[Nick Weidhaas]

It seems like excesive case wobble so when on the up stroke the cases do not always line up to go into the dies. I have shell plate a tight as possible but it still is a pain in the but.

A buddy of mine took .020 off the bottom of his shell plate and it took the wobble out. He has access to a machine shop, so it was no biggie. I know what you mean about the wobble with the .223 cases. I use the scharch brass so I'm only priming, dropping powder and seating a bullet. The case entering the powder die is not a problem for me, but bullet seating is. I hold the case and the bullet straight as it goes up into the seating die (Redding competition seating die). I wan to take the material off the shell plate, but haven't got around to it.

[BigDave]

I use the scharch brass so I'm only priming, dropping powder and seating a bullet.

Nick - no crimp die? Any problems with setback w/o it? I've read here over the years about people thinking it is a mortal sin to crimp match bullets, like SMKs.

[PHolsted]

It seems like excesive case wobble so when on the up stroke the cases do not always line up to go into the dies. I have shell plate a tight as possible but it still is a pain in the but.

A buddy of mine took .020 off the bottom of his shell plate and it took the wobble out. He has access to a machine shop, so it was no biggie. I know what you mean about the wobble with the .223 cases. I use the scharch brass so I'm only priming, dropping powder and seating a bullet. The case entering the powder die is not a problem for me, but bullet seating is. I hold the case and the bullet straight as it goes up into the seating die (Redding competition seating die). I wan to take the material off the shell plate, but haven't got around to it.

I think I might try that. I know a guy who has access to a mill so I'll see if he can do it for me

thanks

[Nick Weidhaas]

I have just recieved some of the scharch brass that is already primed, as I thought this would be the easiest way to start loading .223. I am getting ready to work some loads up, but I was wondering what you guys do when using a dillon 550b.

Do you just eliminate the size/deprime die completely? I have seen some mention of running the die very high to just have the expander ball run through the neck. I am gonna single stage my initial loads during the work up but just wonding how to run the 550b in full production mode after I find a load

Thanks in advance!

I have not found a need to resize anything with the scharch brass. On my 550, no die first position, prime only, dillon powder die on second position, Redding Competition seat die on third position. 4th position empty. I shot yesterday and shot a 1.5" group with my 550 reloads at 300. Factory Hornady TAP 75gr gave me a 2" group as a comparison. I did weigh some powder drops from the Dillon recently and even with ball powder (H335), my drops can be 2 tenths off with the Dillon. Not effecting my accuracy at 300, but be careful if you are running a max load, because the Dillon can put you over.

Nick-

[dcalvert]

I have had good luck with scharch brass loading on a 650. Excellent quality.

Have loaded and shot several thousand out of my JP. Thats all thats I ever shoot out of it.

1/2 moa and have not had ever had one jam.

I use a JP case gauge and Dillon carbide die good bullets and powder.

dcalvert

[ledavatar]

It seems like excesive case wobble so when on the up stroke the cases do not always line up to go into the dies. I have shell plate a tight as possible but it still is a pain in the but.

I had the same problem - powder used to spill all over when I'm not careful and I had to guide both the bullet and the powder station at every upstroke...

... then I got the Uniquetek Turbo Bearing. It seats the case closer to the bottom and tighter and got rid of much of the wobble.