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barney88pdc

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Everything posted by barney88pdc

  1. Me getting a promotion, then everyone getting a raise in the same month. I had been working on my next promotion for about 3 years now. Work had slowed down and there was a freeze in hiring and promotions last year. Actually we had 4 layoffs. Well for the last few months we have been slammed. I have not been able to shoot much this year due to the work load. Well I got my promotion last month effective Jun 1st. Well I found out yesterday that Tuesday an announcement was made at a meeting which I could not attend that everyone was getting a raise, which puts us almost back to what we were making before the slow down. So basicly I am double dipping. Promotion = more cash + Raise = even more cash. I am stoked. That NF / S&B <---- (can't make up my mind) is getting closer for my build that is currently being built at the gunsmiths.
  2. I had 4 SNL +1 base pads and NONE of them fit the gauge. I even tried to grind some of the bottom of the base pad because they were not much longer than the gauge but I busted through on all of them. The bottom thickness is not much so save your pads and do not try. Trust me . I ordered the regular Dawson pads and there was NO difference in capacity. I run Arredondo springs and followers and get 19 reloadable and 20 stuffed with EITHER base pad. You will have to file the sides of the follower to get it to come all the way up into the feed lips. Not a big deal at all easy to do. Takes about 5 minutes with your wife's fingernail file.
  3. Nancy Pelosi and Barbara Boxer. I cringe when I hear this #%$^%#$%#@%^$# talk to this GENERAL who has dedicated his life to this country like this. That self righteous $%#^#$#^@#!
  4. http://www.exmark.com/QuestSP.htm this is the model I went with. The "SP" model is new for 2010 and is a commercial unit. The regular Quest is there home owners model and does not have some of the upgraded parts and such as well as a Briggs engine as opposed the the Kawasaki. My dad has a Ferris with a Kawasaki and it has been going strong for over 10 years.
  5. I am going to recommend going the other way. For the amount you are talking about loading a single stage would be fine. Plus unless you are going to get a Dillon trimmer to put in your tool head you are going to have to run them through once to size/deprime the again to load. A single stage is GREAT for size/deprime and to taylor your loads with supreme tolerances. As far as a trimmer I have a possum hollow that works pretty good. Get the adaptor to chuck up in your drill and go to town. Of course the ultimate in case trimmers is the Giraud. I have one on order .
  6. Sounds like you are not wanting to spend a whole lot but the saying "You get what you pay for" really holds true with mowers. I just bought an Exmark last week, commercial model. They have 0% for 24 months or 3.9 for 5 years right now until Apr. 30th. Scag, Ferris, Hustler are all good machines as well. Trust me once you cut grass on a zero turn you will never cut on anything else. And if you want something that is going to last then stamped deck = crap. That usually is the life of the mower. A good engine will outlast a stamped deck. Just sold a Kubota because they wanted 1350 dollars for another stamped deck, mine was just about rusted out. Engine was still going strong with over 15 years on it.
  7. To the OP (JSH) what gun to suggest will really be a product of what you are looking to do really. Everyone here has given some good info but really without the "what do you want this gun for" question answered then I really would hesitate to say anything. If you are looking to have a good setup for long range with quick follow up shots, then a longer heavy barrel is going to be the ticket. You would have better velocity so more knock down power (for hunting) and less infulence by the wind (although probably minimal depending on range). But the weight would not be something that I would want to carry all day on a hunt in open country or mountainous terrain. Now if this is only going to be used for a static position (Deer stand or bench shooting) then I would say heavy barrel. If this is for fast paced competion then a lighter shorter barrel may suit your needs better. It would be quicker and easier to get in and out of ports and around walls. Those considerations would also infulence the stock and other choices I would make. I have a MagPul PRS on my long range 308 setup. It is adjustable for LOP and Comb height which I love but it is heavy. I have a 6 pos on my shorter barreled AR which of course is lighter. Also if you ever plan on putting a suppressor on one (I have one pending YEA!) then an adjustable gas block would be a nice addition. You would really open the port to run that bolt with the can on if you still wanted semiauto or close off the gas for minimal noise and turn it into a sigle shot rifle. So really intead of cheering for my favorite manufacture I would like more info. Thanks
  8. THE load most guys shoot out of the 22" barrel versions is 41.5 IMR4895 Under a 168gr Seirra Match King at 2.800 OAL. It works just fine in my NM M1A.
  9. Welcome Jim. The monthly Cajun Action Shooters match in Thibodaux is tomorrow morning 3/7. Come out and give it a go. www.lagator.org has more info.
  10. Are you chamber checking your rounds? I had the exact same issue Wednesday when I went to the range with a 34. I had 2 rounds that jammed the slide just out of battery. Both were not properly sized at the base and did not chamber check after we got back from the range.
  11. I do not have any Berry's data but I have the following chrono data that may be useful. Brass: Mixed Primer: Wolf SP Powder: 4.9 WSF Bullet: 115gr Remington FMJ RN OAL: 1.169 Shot from a factory G34 Avg Vel: 1064 PF: 122 So I am going to need to up the charge a bit to make PF but thought I would share.
  12. Brought it to the CPA. Cut him the check for his services. Saved me the stress. He made my day when I saw how much I over paid. Waiting on my return. And that Giraud trimmer might get ordered soon.
  13. I would stay away from tring to make Major with WST. Get some WSF if you want to use a Winchester powder or as others have stated use the TG you have.
  14. I dont know if you even can still get this but Ben's 100. Get the little tiny liquid bottle. Just a drop or two on your hands then rub them together and wipe down your arms, neck, and face. STAY AWAY FROM EYES!
  15. Yes it will and you hit the nail on the head. Hence my earlier suggestion of H322. All of the powders listed in here are common for .223 but some would be better suited for bolt guns with longer barrels. Also powder type (ball, stick, flake) would also be a consideration if the OP is loading with a progressive press which is throwing the charge as opposed to weighing each by hand.
  16. For Ballistics if you are into rifle shooting here is another vote for Ballistic FTE. I used it this past weekend and my elevation was dead on at 300 with my 100 yard zero. I know it is not all that far but the furtherest range we had avaliable. I had my chrono out and put in the MV and my hit were dead on with the elevation.
  17. Just thought I would share a load I chronoed this past weekend. Factory G34. Temperature was 50F. Brass: Mixed Headstamp Powder: VV N320 3.3gr Bullet: 147 JHP Zero OAL: 1.135 Primer: WSP PF: 131
  18. With that short of a barrel the H322 might be a better choice than the H335. If you can find that I would pick some up. Varget has a tendency to bridge over in a progressive and may not meter as well. YMMV
  19. What kind of resizing die are you using?
  20. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh, shit!" SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Son of a b*tch TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "Son of a bitch" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
  21. http://www.bbqaddicts.com/blog/recipes/bacon-explosion/ http://bacontoday.com/category/bacon-recipes/
  22. I too plan on getting set up to load .223 for my AR. Not looking for 5 shot one hole groups probably just a bunch of 55 gr plinking ammo. I think I have narrowed it down to RCBS sizing die. I will get a Dillon Trimmer and a designated tool head for the size / trim operation. Would the RCBS small base sizer die or the RCBS X die be the better option? I am going to load on a 550B and set up the second tool head probably with a Redding Mic Seater I know probably overkill but the ease of setting up the OAL is worth it to me. (I just LOVE it for my .308 hand loads on my single stage. No muss or fuss adjusting OAL.) And a Lee Crimp in station 4 for good measure. So what would be the better sizer die and why. Thanks.
  23. I have about 7 k rounds through my Dawson Tuned Executive and I am happy with it. Good luck with the new purchase.
  24. Is OPEN CARRY legal in your state LOL!
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