Dot dipping

[rupture]

Having a problem with the dot dipping. Dot rises half way up the lens and dips about halfway down before centering. What should I be looking at to correct this ? Pistol is a trubor with the stock recoilmaster . Been shooting AA ammo which chrono'ed around 174 pf avg. Thanks

[Neomet]

You might try a lighter recoil spring.

[JThompson]

Grip has much to do with this as well....

JT

BTW Mine does the same thing, but it returns, so I give it little thought. I got to a point where I don't care where the dot goes as long as it comes back to where it was before I broke the shot.

I'd pull the RM and try and 8-9-10 and see if any of those gives you what you are looking for.

Edited October 24, 2009 by JThompson

[XRe]

What should I be looking at to correct this ? Pistol is a trubor with the stock recoilmaster .

Timing Drills. Search for it

[wide45]

Having a problem with the dot dipping. Dot rises half way up the lens and dips about halfway down before centering. What should I be looking at to correct this ? Pistol is a trubor with the stock recoilmaster . Been shooting AA ammo which chrono'ed around 174 pf avg. Thanks

How long have you been shooting this gun and load?

If it is running well, don't change anything until you have shot a thousand rounds or so. The problem may resolve itself.

[calishootr]

I would say if your shooting the 'old' 9x25 that its normal hehehe but it sounds like its over sprung, most open guns like recoil springs in the 9/10/11lb range

and +1 to what others have said, get used to the new load, and or check out timing drills...

[Flyin40]

Having a problem with the dot dipping. Dot rises half way up the lens and dips about halfway down before centering. What should I be looking at to correct this ? Pistol is a trubor with the stock recoilmaster . Been shooting AA ammo which chrono'ed around 174 pf avg. Thanks

What does it do exactly?? Does the dot leave the lens?? Not sure what you mean by halfway?? Halfway from center?? If the dot is centered when you pull the trigger and from center is goes halfway to the top then back down halfway between center and the bottom thats pretty good. There isn't a great deal of movement. My dot goes to the top of the lense and then back down. Thats fine with me as long as it tracks straight up and down for me. The dot isn't going to stay in the center of the lense so you can use the timing drill to get the feel of the gun and dot.

Flyin

[Jeff686]

When my grip it too tight, mine does the same thing. From centered (1/2) when I break the shot, it goes up to 3/4, then down to 1/4 and back to center.

When I loosen my grip and relax a little, the dot just goes up and and down, back to the same spot. I have to admit, it is a lot faster to break the shots when the dot doesn't do the crazy up-down-up thing.

[Collecting A's]

Grip firm to control the gun and absorb the recoil with the arms.

A guy that shoots limited shot my open gun and said the dot goes down.

Nope, that's all you.

[rupture]

Grip has much to do with this as well....

JT

BTW Mine does the same thing, but it returns, so I give it little thought. I got to a point where I don't care where the dot goes as long as it comes back to where it was before I broke the shot.

I'd pull the RM and try and 8-9-10 and see if any of those gives you what you are looking for.

Dot rises half way up the lens. I have a friend that's a GM, I 'll let him shoot it and find out real quick if it's me

[XRe]

Dot rises half way up the lens. I have a friend that's a GM, I 'll let him shoot it and find out real quick if it's me

Every person, regardless of their class, will experience the gun a different way based on the current gun they're "used to". Go do the timing drills. The gun will settle down and return to POA without dipping. Its you, not the gun.

[rupture]

Dot rises half way up the lens. I have a friend that's a GM, I 'll let him shoot it and find out real quick if it's me

Every person, regardless of their class, will experience the gun a different way based on the current gun they're "used to". Go do the timing drills. The gun will settle down and return to POA without dipping. Its you, not the gun.

I'll do it next visit to the range, Thanks

[benny hill]

Slide is to heavy, to much mass going into battery & causeing muzzle to dip, kind of like the edge limited pistols. Put the slide on a diet & use a 9lb. spring.

[benos]

Slide is to heavy, to much mass going into battery & causeing muzzle to dip, kind of like the edge limited pistols. Put the slide on a diet & use a 9lb. spring.

Check this thread.

be

[rupture]

Slide is to heavy, to much mass going into battery & causeing muzzle to dip, kind of like the edge limited pistols. Put the slide on a diet & use a 9lb. spring.

Actually this is what I expected to hear, but I'm gonna do the timing drills first and go from there. Thanks

[rvb]

I struggled with this too..

IMO, Timing drills are 80-90% of the answer. The slide weight and springs is the other 10-20%.

I also started with a stock Trubor in 38-super. I did several thousands of rounds in timing drills to get rid of the same issue you are having, experimenting with grip, grip strengths, elbow positions, etc etc. I got to where I was close, but couldn't get it to really settle back from where it left. Even if I got it to stop dead center, it would dance around. At that point, a poor-mans slide lightening job (at home drill press) help a fair amount, and the last little itty bit of dip was taken care of with a shock buff, which slightly shortens the length of travel, and therefore forward velocity. I also use an 8lb spring. Another few thousand rounds of timing drills and I got it very very consistent where the dot rises maybe 3/4 the way up the lens and settles smoothly but quickly back on the hole from the last shot.

I went through a few stages during those 15k (give or take) rounds. At first I thought a super loose grip was the ticket. But consistency was difficult. I now grip it just like a production or limited gun. In the end, I discovered for myself what all the top dogs here say... that you really do control the gun with your vision. I went to the range one day with the goal of watching the dot go up and return perfectly. I didn't "think" about technique... and it worked! After about 50 rounds my concsious mind took over and I started "trying" rather than "observing" and the control went away. So I went home... and tried again in a couple days. Now 2 years later I cannot make it dip like it used to because it's not what I'm used to seeing... and I've learned the timing of the gun enough that it feels weird to do it wrong.

I think a custom built gun with a tuned slide weight and recoil system and comp system will be far easier to learn. But it can be done on a stock gun, too.

btw, I made master this spring with that trubor. no super achievement, but many will tell you it can't be done on a stock open gun, that they are for beginers only (as I was when I bought it).

-rvb

[CocoBolo]

XRE & Benny are two experts in their own right, so what they say is like gospel. I will stay that I along with every other Open Gun shooter I know have tried a number of different powders and loads to come up with the one that feels the best in our gun and each may have come up with a different one that is ideal for his or her combination of shooter and gun.

I tried some powders that made the dot jump over the moon then found one where the dot hardly moves at all. Each gun is different based upon factors like comp weigth etc.

So when all else fails you may want to start loading your own ammo to get just the right feel for you.

[nphd2000]

For what it is worth I just posted in the "slide material removal" thread. Lightening the slide is what helped my "Dot dip". Of course it's a silly Glock open gun built on a G35 in .40 (my god). I just need to get out there and shoot the darn thing.

[38supPat]

I struggled with this too..

IMO, Timing drills are 80-90% of the answer. The slide weight and springs is the other 10-20%.

I also started with a stock Trubor in 38-super. I did several thousands of rounds in timing drills to get rid of the same issue you are having, experimenting with grip, grip strengths, elbow positions, etc etc. I got to where I was close, but couldn't get it to really settle back from where it left. Even if I got it to stop dead center, it would dance around. At that point, a poor-mans slide lightening job (at home drill press) help a fair amount, and the last little itty bit of dip was taken care of with a shock buff, which slightly shortens the length of travel, and therefore forward velocity. I also use an 8lb spring. Another few thousand rounds of timing drills and I got it very very consistent where the dot rises maybe 3/4 the way up the lens and settles smoothly but quickly back on the hole from the last shot.

I went through a few stages during those 15k (give or take) rounds. At first I thought a super loose grip was the ticket. But consistency was difficult. I now grip it just like a production or limited gun. In the end, I discovered for myself what all the top dogs here say... that you really do control the gun with your vision. I went to the range one day with the goal of watching the dot go up and return perfectly. I didn't "think" about technique... and it worked! After about 50 rounds my concsious mind took over and I started "trying" rather than "observing" and the control went away. So I went home... and tried again in a couple days. Now 2 years later I cannot make it dip like it used to because it's not what I'm used to seeing... and I've learned the timing of the gun enough that it feels weird to do it wrong.

I think a custom built gun with a tuned slide weight and recoil system and comp system will be far easier to learn. But it can be done on a stock gun, too.

btw, I made master this spring with that trubor. no super achievement, but many will tell you it can't be done on a stock open gun, that they are for beginers only (as I was when I bought it).

-rvb

For me, dot dip is the first sign that I am shooting tense. You're bang on, if you let the vision guide you, you will sort it out.

A Trubor is all 99% of the shooters out there really need, it will shoot far better than most are able to use. As long as it is Accurate and reliable you're good to go.