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S&w 686 Or 625? Idpa


downzero

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Downzero, Both can be reloaded fast. The 45 is easier from the start as there is more hole than metal. The 38 Super would just take more work to be as fast. The 45 can be scored as major in IPSC. Not sure on the IDPA stuff. But the 686 could be quicker shot to shot on the longer range stuff. It could return to an acceptable sight picture quicker. But if it is close range shooting, below 15 yards, I believe the advantage of the lighter bullet would be nullified. I have a 625 and a 38 special. Of course the 38 is tricked out and I enjoy shooting it a lot more than the stock 625. But that is just my on preferences. Not much help huh?

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Chad,

There is a .38 super 6 shot 686 set up with moon clips available now. I'm sure that is the one to which downzero is referring. I haven't shot or tried to reload the .38 super 686 but comparing my 625 to my moon clipped 6 and 7 shoot 686's is no contest. The .45's always land in the right spot. But from a shooting stand point I love the L frame. If I could only have one, I'd take an L.

Chris

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My bad, didn't realize they had made a 686 .38super. Another reason the smaller caliber moon clip guns don't work as well is the amount of space between the chambers in the cylinder. This gives the shooter more room for error in doing the reload. With the 625 if you are off a little, with a good RN bullet it will "glide" into the chamber. I have had trouble with the "glide" while doing the reloads on the clock during match conditions......but that is another story.

Practice.....Practice......Practice! B)

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Chad and others,

Keep in mind that, although the chambers of the smaller caliber L/K-frames are smaller, the cylinders are smaller too. The material between the chargeholes is not really an issue here (make sure you get the holes chamfered though, 'cause that DOES make a difference). Reloads aren't that much harder on an L-frame. I think the one thing that DOES make a reload harder on an L/K-frame is case length of .38 special/.357 magnum cases (extraction). But, since we're discussing only short rounds here, I don't think it will make a big difference. As a matter, I think I'd pick the 686 in .38super (and that means something, coming from a 625-loony). You have the reloading gear. You're familiar with the cartridge. And the gun IS softer to shoot.

But, whatever choice you make, in the end the gun will not make the difference :)

Good luck choosing ;)

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I agree with Spook, the 686 is a good choice as long as you can find moonclips and moonclip holders. I also prefer the 625 but if you have the reloading gear and experience with the .38 super that is critical. Practice is important with a revolver. Practice and shooting will be cheaper with the .38 I think as well. Don't be surprised if you buy the 625 also later on. Revolver is pretty addictive. I think the L-frame is a good choice. I moved from the K-frame to the N frame 625 because I kept burning my finger on the barrel of the small K-frame, L-frame should be a nice compromise in size. Weight and balance are important with a revolver also, you'll likely be flipping it around alot reloading. So I suggest you find a source for all the extras first...holster, moonclips and holders. Then go with the 686. If you find it hard to get all that stuff because it's a new gun, go with the 625. Personally, in my opinion, if Spook says it, its gospel!

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I have one of the new 646's. Used it in a couple of "side matches" my club has each month. I sold a 625 to buy it. Pretty nice, but I haven't gotten use to the lighter weight (34 oz.). I will like it much better when I get properly loaded ammo for it...the first matches were shot with my major USPSA load (180 gr. Ranier/5.3 gr VV 320). Not pleasant at all...reminiscent of the Treasury load 38+p+ from my USMS days.

Its a very accurate revolver. Brownells carries moon clips, but they're rather expensive (about $35 for 10). Hard to come to grips with when you paying 5/$1 at the gunshows.

Marvin

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I've owned, fondled, or have competed in IDPA and ICORE w/ K,L, and N frames in 38sp, 38super, .40, and .45. And these are my preferences:

I like K/L frames better than N frames.

I like moonclips over speedloaders.

I like short rounds over long rounds.

I like big charge holes over small ones.

I like chamfered cylinders over non-chamfered.

I like moonclips that hold the rounds tightly instead of floppy moonclips.

In IPSC or ICORE I like more rounds than less.

I like minor powerfactor over major.

I like lighter triggers over heavy (as long as it goes boom every time).

I like the forged parts over the MIM parts.

I like hammer block safeties over transfer bar safeties.

I like frame mounted firing pins over hammer mounted.

And I like any revolver that doesn't have a stupid keylock safety.

As you can see, there's no one revolver that fits all these preferences. I like the 625 for someone new to competitive revolvers (more room for reloading errors). I can transition from target to target faster w/ a K/L frame. If I had to shoot a match w/ lots of close together targets (pins or plate rack) I'd use the 625 for the less error prone reloads, but if it was a match with few far apart targets I'd want an L frame for the transitions. The 38spec, super, and 357 mag are relatively long and thin and makes for harder extraction and reloading. Some ICORE guys are moving to the 38 short which is a 38 spec cut down to about 9mm length and loaded to 9mm velocities to make minor powerfactor. The 38 super 686 is a Performance center gun so it'll cost a bit more than a stock gun, but the one I've handled is sweet and worth the money.

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Thanks for the replies. I like the 686. Chris Tilley's Dad, Mike Tilley and I are friends and he's trying to talk me into the .45 for all the reasons listed. Who said it? Choose the cooler one. Sure do like the .38 super.

BTW, How cool are revolvers anyway? I've got the fever. It's suprised myself!

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I just bought my 686 in 38 Super for IDPA. I've been using a 686 in 38 Special up until now.

I think the combination of the L frame gun and the smaller, lighter bullets make for a quick handling , light recoiling set-up with little muzzle flip.

Good luck with whatever you buy. B)

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Spook,

Yeah I knew I'd get flak for that one. Hammer mounted pins are better for lighter trigger jobs, but most my Revos got frame mounted ones and the hammer mounted ones look so delicate sitting out there in the open. I also don't need to have the lightest trigger in the world. Smooth consistent pull makes up for heavier triggers.

BB

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BB no flak intended. I just think Ron hasn't read carefully through your post :ph34r::P I doubt he likes the frame mounted pins :D

What you're saying makes a lot of sense. I bought my first frame mounted pin 625 revo some days ago and I must say, the trigger is great. Not too light (I somehow don't like that, and like you, don't need it) and very consistent.

I also like the option of having a longer pin in those guns as well.

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